6.0 swap, cranks but won't start
#1
6.0 swap, cranks but won't start
2005 Silverado, 5.3 to 6.0 swap
6.0, bored .030 over, K1 crank and rods, 212/218 112 LSA .550 lift cam, NNBS intake and injectors, LS3 gold blade TB w/ Newest gen X Link, tuned by local tuner, 5.3 had a black bear EFI live tune, new tuner rewrote with HP tuners.
Has spark and fuel.
Engine cranks but will not start, popping (backfiring) through intake and exhaust.
Crank and cam sensor were brand new, then swapped for the originals from the running 5.3. All plugs/grounds checked, still same issue.
Sounds like it is 180* out, crank does have 24x reluctor wheel with correct black crank sensor, due to the length of the wiring harness, not possible to swap coil pack harness or injectors.
Security light goes off, does not stay on, so I do not think it is a VATS issue. Blackbear sent a new computer with a tune when they tuned the 5.3, I had to do a security relearn at that time.
Any ideas? At a loss here. Thinking it has to be tune related but the tuner is a respected local tuner and I wouldn't know how to diagnose if it was tune related anyway.
6.0, bored .030 over, K1 crank and rods, 212/218 112 LSA .550 lift cam, NNBS intake and injectors, LS3 gold blade TB w/ Newest gen X Link, tuned by local tuner, 5.3 had a black bear EFI live tune, new tuner rewrote with HP tuners.
Has spark and fuel.
Engine cranks but will not start, popping (backfiring) through intake and exhaust.
Crank and cam sensor were brand new, then swapped for the originals from the running 5.3. All plugs/grounds checked, still same issue.
Sounds like it is 180* out, crank does have 24x reluctor wheel with correct black crank sensor, due to the length of the wiring harness, not possible to swap coil pack harness or injectors.
Security light goes off, does not stay on, so I do not think it is a VATS issue. Blackbear sent a new computer with a tune when they tuned the 5.3, I had to do a security relearn at that time.
Any ideas? At a loss here. Thinking it has to be tune related but the tuner is a respected local tuner and I wouldn't know how to diagnose if it was tune related anyway.
#2
Sounds almost like the ECM and the cam don't agree on the cam position.
Might want to pop the driver's side valve cover off and watch the #1 valves with your timing light. You should not see any evidence of them being open at all. If the exh looks like it's still partway open and/or the int looks like it's starting to open, it's 180° out. Which ordinarily would be impossible due to the reluctor on the cam being part of it and not generally subject to install mistakes. But who knows. If it turns out the spark isn't at the correct firing location, maybe you can fix it in the tune.
Might want to pop the driver's side valve cover off and watch the #1 valves with your timing light. You should not see any evidence of them being open at all. If the exh looks like it's still partway open and/or the int looks like it's starting to open, it's 180° out. Which ordinarily would be impossible due to the reluctor on the cam being part of it and not generally subject to install mistakes. But who knows. If it turns out the spark isn't at the correct firing location, maybe you can fix it in the tune.
#6
The only next step I can think of it to pull the timing cover and check the cam shaft is degree'd correctly. When it was installed I just used the "dot to dot" method on the cam and crank sprockets.
Anything else I can try/check before I pull the timing cover?
Can I degree the cam with the heads on?
Anything else I can try/check before I pull the timing cover?
Can I degree the cam with the heads on?
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (7)
The only next step I can think of it to pull the timing cover and check the cam shaft is degree'd correctly. When it was installed I just used the "dot to dot" method on the cam and crank sprockets.
Anything else I can try/check before I pull the timing cover?
Can I degree the cam with the heads on?
Anything else I can try/check before I pull the timing cover?
Can I degree the cam with the heads on?