Is a 383 stroker kit in a 5.3L gen 4 a bad Idea?
08-13-2017, 09:14 PM
#1
Teching In
Thread Starter
Is a 383 stroker kit in a 5.3L gen 4 a bad Idea?
Hi guys,
This is my first post here. BTW I really like what I'm reading here. I have a 2008 Sierra with vin J 5.3L ly5 engine. I'm looking into doing a DOD delete because I'm getting a lifter tap every now and then and it consumes oil. I'm also looking for more torque for the occasional camper pulling. I was thinking about doing a 383 stroker kit with a mild cam upgrade but have been warned about piston skirt wear with 4 inch stroke cranks. Has anybody done a 383 stroker build? Could a 6.0l block be installed with my stock heads and intake?
This is my first post here. BTW I really like what I'm reading here. I have a 2008 Sierra with vin J 5.3L ly5 engine. I'm looking into doing a DOD delete because I'm getting a lifter tap every now and then and it consumes oil. I'm also looking for more torque for the occasional camper pulling. I was thinking about doing a 383 stroker kit with a mild cam upgrade but have been warned about piston skirt wear with 4 inch stroke cranks. Has anybody done a 383 stroker build? Could a 6.0l block be installed with my stock heads and intake?
08-14-2017, 01:09 AM
#2
The 4" crank debate in a stock block has been and will continue forever. There have been many cases of poorly assembled and misused applications with 4" cranks that have ultimately resulted in worn out pistons........then the results are posted and 500 readers (who have never had such an engine) then regurgitating info that 4" crank set ups are garbage.
Now, if you do a search and can weed out some of the bullshit.....you will realize that there have been success stories. It all comes down to properly prepping the block and pistons for the intended use.
Don't get me wrong. A 4" crank probably does not belong in you daily driver that gets 30000 miles a year with the intention of driving it for 5 years.
That said, a hot rod truck that is streetable and sees dome drag race use with good maintenance.......can certainly benefit from the added cubes.
Personally, in a truck that sees limited mileage (doing cruise ins and minimal street driving) and is set up for primarily for track use.....I wouldn't hesitate even doing a 4.100" crankshaft.
Now, if you do a search and can weed out some of the bullshit.....you will realize that there have been success stories. It all comes down to properly prepping the block and pistons for the intended use.
Don't get me wrong. A 4" crank probably does not belong in you daily driver that gets 30000 miles a year with the intention of driving it for 5 years.
That said, a hot rod truck that is streetable and sees dome drag race use with good maintenance.......can certainly benefit from the added cubes.
Personally, in a truck that sees limited mileage (doing cruise ins and minimal street driving) and is set up for primarily for track use.....I wouldn't hesitate even doing a 4.100" crankshaft.
The following users liked this post:
5.3oilchugger (08-16-2017)
08-14-2017, 11:51 AM
#3
The 4" crank debate in a stock block has been and will continue forever. There have been many cases of poorly assembled and misused applications with 4" cranks that have ultimately resulted in worn out pistons........then the results are posted and 500 readers (who have never had such an engine) then regurgitating info that 4" crank set ups are garbage.
Now, if you do a search and can weed out some of the bullshit.....you will realize that there have been success stories. It all comes down to properly prepping the block and pistons for the intended use.
Don't get me wrong. A 4" crank probably does not belong in you daily driver that gets 30000 miles a year with the intention of driving it for 5 years.
That said, a hot rod truck that is streetable and sees dome drag race use with good maintenance.......can certainly benefit from the added cubes.
Personally, in a truck that sees limited mileage (doing cruise ins and minimal street driving) and is set up for primarily for track use.....I wouldn't hesitate even doing a 4.100" crankshaft.
Now, if you do a search and can weed out some of the bullshit.....you will realize that there have been success stories. It all comes down to properly prepping the block and pistons for the intended use.
Don't get me wrong. A 4" crank probably does not belong in you daily driver that gets 30000 miles a year with the intention of driving it for 5 years.
That said, a hot rod truck that is streetable and sees dome drag race use with good maintenance.......can certainly benefit from the added cubes.
Personally, in a truck that sees limited mileage (doing cruise ins and minimal street driving) and is set up for primarily for track use.....I wouldn't hesitate even doing a 4.100" crankshaft.
The following 2 users liked this post by terravast4:
5.3oilchugger (08-16-2017),
strutaeng (10-08-2023)
The following users liked this post:
5.3oilchugger (08-16-2017)
08-15-2017, 06:21 PM
#9
This is our "first post" also!
We like either way. It really depends on BUDGET. If you can afford the machine work and stroker kit DO IT. If youd rather stay on a budget you CAN build an alum 5.7 and make a little more power while keeping the budget good.
We offer s full variety of rebuild kits for either
1 deleting dod adding cam
2 deleting dod adding cam and changing pistons/bore
3 full on stroker kit
Either of those we offer with all the parts for the best prices out there and fast free shipping.
The only diff between doing a reg 5.3l rebuild and a 5.7 build is the cost of machine work. Pistons, rings gaskets are all same price.
$620 for a complete kit (not including a few dod delete parts)
$320 for a complete gasket kit
Dod delete kits run $340-360 shipped depending on what you want to replace
Some parts overlap so a complete gasket kit plus dod delete is cheaper than 320 + 340.
Our cam kits start at $515 for cam and springs $585 for cam springs and pushrods and go up from there!!
We can get you a price on stroker kits as well!! They usually start at 2450 and go up.
Hope that helps.
We like either way. It really depends on BUDGET. If you can afford the machine work and stroker kit DO IT. If youd rather stay on a budget you CAN build an alum 5.7 and make a little more power while keeping the budget good.
We offer s full variety of rebuild kits for either
1 deleting dod adding cam
2 deleting dod adding cam and changing pistons/bore
3 full on stroker kit
Either of those we offer with all the parts for the best prices out there and fast free shipping.
The only diff between doing a reg 5.3l rebuild and a 5.7 build is the cost of machine work. Pistons, rings gaskets are all same price.
$620 for a complete kit (not including a few dod delete parts)
$320 for a complete gasket kit
Dod delete kits run $340-360 shipped depending on what you want to replace
Some parts overlap so a complete gasket kit plus dod delete is cheaper than 320 + 340.
Our cam kits start at $515 for cam and springs $585 for cam springs and pushrods and go up from there!!
We can get you a price on stroker kits as well!! They usually start at 2450 and go up.
Hope that helps.
The following 2 users liked this post by RPMSpeed Tech:
5.3oilchugger (08-16-2017),
Choda (09-19-2017)
08-16-2017, 04:50 PM
#10
Teching In
Thread Starter
This is our "first post" also!
We like either way. It really depends on BUDGET. If you can afford the machine work and stroker kit DO IT. If youd rather stay on a budget you CAN build an alum 5.7 and make a little more power while keeping the budget good.
We offer s full variety of rebuild kits for either
1 deleting dod adding cam
2 deleting dod adding cam and changing pistons/bore
3 full on stroker kit
Either of those we offer with all the parts for the best prices out there and fast free shipping.
The only diff between doing a reg 5.3l rebuild and a 5.7 build is the cost of machine work. Pistons, rings gaskets are all same price.
$620 for a complete kit (not including a few dod delete parts)
$320 for a complete gasket kit
Dod delete kits run $340-360 shipped depending on what you want to replace
Some parts overlap so a complete gasket kit plus dod delete is cheaper than 320 + 340.
Our cam kits start at $515 for cam and springs $585 for cam springs and pushrods and go up from there!!
We can get you a price on stroker kits as well!! They usually start at 2450 and go up.
Hope that helps.
We like either way. It really depends on BUDGET. If you can afford the machine work and stroker kit DO IT. If youd rather stay on a budget you CAN build an alum 5.7 and make a little more power while keeping the budget good.
We offer s full variety of rebuild kits for either
1 deleting dod adding cam
2 deleting dod adding cam and changing pistons/bore
3 full on stroker kit
Either of those we offer with all the parts for the best prices out there and fast free shipping.
The only diff between doing a reg 5.3l rebuild and a 5.7 build is the cost of machine work. Pistons, rings gaskets are all same price.
$620 for a complete kit (not including a few dod delete parts)
$320 for a complete gasket kit
Dod delete kits run $340-360 shipped depending on what you want to replace
Some parts overlap so a complete gasket kit plus dod delete is cheaper than 320 + 340.
Our cam kits start at $515 for cam and springs $585 for cam springs and pushrods and go up from there!!
We can get you a price on stroker kits as well!! They usually start at 2450 and go up.
Hope that helps.