212/218 cam for 4.8
 

Been looking into a cam swap lately, want a little more power out of the 4 8
I've herd that a comp 212/218 is a good cam for these motors, what do you all think? also would like to leave a lot of stuff stock, understand springs may need to be changed but that fine.. talking about lifters, pushrods etc.

note: will be getting tsp headers and y-pipe along with bb tune.. :burnout::burnout:

That is a great DD cam and improves power in all the ranges that most people use their engine in. I however would suggest you save up alittle more money and change your lifters and pushrods while you are in there. You dont want to do a cam swap and then a couple thousand miles later you have a lifter grenade and then you have alot bigger problems. Do it right the first time and dont worry about it

true. but most ppl run stock lifters after a cam swap and have no problems so idk

I would go with a tighter split cam since your going with headers, that cam with the design of your heads would be more suited if you planned on staying with stock exhaust manifolds.

You can stick with your stock lifters but upgrading your pushrods is a must due to the smaller base circle of the cam.

Also your need to go with at least LS6 springs.

Where are your wanting to make your power? What are your expecting? You may want to go smaller or larger. All depending on how you plan to use the truck.

If your engine doesn’t have too many miles and are not currently experiencing any issues you can reuse your stock lifters. The mileage isn’t the only factor when it comes to lifter failure, but if it were a high mileage engine you may be better served to go ahead and swap them out. What you really need to do if your contemplating reusing your stock components is to inspect the lobes on the old camshaft you pull out very closely for any indications of problems, as whatever markings you see on the cam lobes are bound to be on the rollers of the lifters and then when you install the new cam the lifters will turn around and transfer whatever issues they may have to the new camshaft. The same can be said for your pushrods and rockers, where you should inspect any contact wear point for possible excessive wear or other problems. Of course you will probably be replacing the pushrods for stronger pieces (recommended anyway), but just the same check everything out before reassembly. Besides checking the pushrod cups of the rockers, you should also take each rocker in hand and rotate the rocker on its needle bearing fulcrum and feel for any stiffness or binding. You don’t want your rockers spitting any needle bearings out into the engine. Of course you can purchase new replacement rockers, or it would also be an excellent time to upgrade the fulcrums in your stock rockers if they are in otherwise good condition. Another item to check before you put everything together is the camshaft retainer plate clearance on the front of the camshaft, as while it doesn’t happen very regularly, every once and awhile the machined step isn’t machined deep enough and the plate will actually bind the cam when torqued down. It is very easy to check by setting the plate on the end of the cam while it’s on the bench and then installing the cam gear and torquing it down and then measure the backside of the plate to the camshaft with a feeler gauge.

like to have low end power ,its a daily driver regular cab, never gets off the pavement, just want so added power on a budget. I also just rolled over to a 100,000 miles but oil is changed ever 3

Great cam great for ur engine get the high lift version

I was looking at the low lift one.

I ran the low lift in my 5.3 with good results

I have the low lift in my truck with a 2800 converter and 3.73's turning 285/75-r16 falken wild peaks. 7.4" hardened pushrods and ls6 springs. The best mileage I've seen was almost 17 on a flat highway cruising at 70ish. This is in a 4wd. The truck pulls like A freight train from 2500 up