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Wheel Spacers

Old 08-13-2018, 11:29 PM
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Default Wheel Spacers

I know wheel spacers are typically frowned upon. I recently installed all new suspension on my truck, Ridetech Strongarms up front. When I turn the wheel to full lock, the back of the wheel rubs the control arm. I just bought everything, including the wheels and I am not in the position to buy a new set of wheels. I think I would need about 1/2" or so. How much would this screw me up? Or should I just deal with it until I can get new wheels.
Old 08-14-2018, 09:22 AM
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The wheel rubs or the tire rubs? This is a big difference b/c the tire is just going to polish the control arm as it removes the powder coat from repeated contact. If it's the wheel, I'd imagine that it's going to grind into the control arm possibly weakening it over time, not to mention gouging up the lip/barrel of your wheel at the same time.

I have RT strong arms with coil overs up front with the 5 spoke LTZ wheels (OEM backspacing) and 275/40/20's, if I turn full lock (or close to it) the tire rubs the front lower control arm as evidenced by the lack of powder coat on the front of my lower control arms. My current fix is to remember this and try not to turn full lock but **** happens right? For a more long term fix, I'd like to fab a steering stop on the lower control arm since RT did not provide one.

If you have to run spacers, try to find the ones that bolt to the hub and then your wheel bolts to the spacer. If it's the slide over type, just make sure you have plenty of thread engagement with your lug nuts, otherwise, you'll need to find a suitable longer lug stud. You'll also need to pay attention to your tire to fender clearance, can you push the wheel/tire out w/o rubbing the fender? May need to raise the truck or it may not be an issue.

Old 08-14-2018, 09:24 AM
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If you get a spacer make sure its a high quality american made unit that is hubcentric.
Old 08-14-2018, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff71
The wheel rubs or the tire rubs? This is a big difference b/c the tire is just going to polish the control arm as it removes the powder coat from repeated contact. If it's the wheel, I'd imagine that it's going to grind into the control arm possibly weakening it over time, not to mention gouging up the lip/barrel of your wheel at the same time.

I have RT strong arms with coil overs up front with the 5 spoke LTZ wheels (OEM backspacing) and 275/40/20's, if I turn full lock (or close to it) the tire rubs the front lower control arm as evidenced by the lack of powder coat on the front of my lower control arms. My current fix is to remember this and try not to turn full lock but **** happens right? For a more long term fix, I'd like to fab a steering stop on the lower control arm since RT did not provide one.

If you have to run spacers, try to find the ones that bolt to the hub and then your wheel bolts to the spacer. If it's the slide over type, just make sure you have plenty of thread engagement with your lug nuts, otherwise, you'll need to find a suitable longer lug stud. You'll also need to pay attention to your tire to fender clearance, can you push the wheel/tire out w/o rubbing the fender? May need to raise the truck or it may not be an issue.
The wheel rubs, metal to metal. Worse in some situations and sometimes I have to crank the wheel hard to get it to touch, so it' barely hitting. Like 95% of the time I remember not to do it, so I just operate with 90-95% steering radius. It's just annoying, but I definitely want it to be right.
Old 08-14-2018, 05:24 PM
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Found these, I think I will try them out. Thinnest they make, I suppose that's due to needing enough room for the studs/lug nuts.

https://www.uswheeladapters.com/shop...-1-1-25-thick/
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