Pretty sure my Trans is slipping (6L80e) HELP!
05-29-2013, 05:39 AM
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Pretty sure my Trans is slipping (6L80e) HELP!
So I've had my truck for almost a year now. 2011 Sierra CCSB 1500 6.2L.
In this past year I have installed an Airaid MIT, a front end leveling kit, and a BB Street Tune. That's it. Stock tires, wheels, gears, everything else is stock besides the gasoline and the engine oil.
Before the street tune was ever done, I noticed a very slight rumble from time to time while driving down the freeway. I noticed it most often while in cruise control or more or less coasting; basically off the throttle. There'd rarely and randomly be this ever so slight mechanical rumble. Then it would stop no sooner that it started. I could never get the passenger to feel or notice it. So I gave up on it. I did check tranny and rear diff fluids and put the truck on a lift and tried to wiggle the drive shaft u-joints and found no wiggle. So like I said, I gave up on a slipping rear end or tranny and hoped that while I was planning to get an in person tune, BBP's computer might pick up anything if there was something major.
Well I was not present at the street tune due to work, so my wife got it done. No biggie. Nothing major like a slipping transmission showed up on the power graphs. Does this seem like good reasoning by me?
Six months go by and I've either learned to deal with it or become immune to it, but my truck is driving the exact way I know it does. My wife took it on a 5 hour road trip last weekend and when she got back she said without a doubt there is a intermittent rumble and it feels like it's coming straight from the transmission. I could not agree more.
So now for my questions:
My truck is under warranty, but the BB tune voids that. So should I even bother bringing it into a dealership for them to look? IF they did look at it or work on it, would they flash my computer and wipe my tune away?
Should I go with a local shop that I trust, but possibly face expensive repairs? Would they need to flash my tune away to sort it out?
Please give me a best case/worst case scenario with cost expectancies.
I'm thinking:
best case is just change the trans fluid = $50-$75
worst case is needing to rebuild transmission = $$????
I hope those are the alfa and omega of my worries.
As title says, please help and maybe ease my mind.
In this past year I have installed an Airaid MIT, a front end leveling kit, and a BB Street Tune. That's it. Stock tires, wheels, gears, everything else is stock besides the gasoline and the engine oil.
Before the street tune was ever done, I noticed a very slight rumble from time to time while driving down the freeway. I noticed it most often while in cruise control or more or less coasting; basically off the throttle. There'd rarely and randomly be this ever so slight mechanical rumble. Then it would stop no sooner that it started. I could never get the passenger to feel or notice it. So I gave up on it. I did check tranny and rear diff fluids and put the truck on a lift and tried to wiggle the drive shaft u-joints and found no wiggle. So like I said, I gave up on a slipping rear end or tranny and hoped that while I was planning to get an in person tune, BBP's computer might pick up anything if there was something major.
Well I was not present at the street tune due to work, so my wife got it done. No biggie. Nothing major like a slipping transmission showed up on the power graphs. Does this seem like good reasoning by me?
Six months go by and I've either learned to deal with it or become immune to it, but my truck is driving the exact way I know it does. My wife took it on a 5 hour road trip last weekend and when she got back she said without a doubt there is a intermittent rumble and it feels like it's coming straight from the transmission. I could not agree more.
So now for my questions:
My truck is under warranty, but the BB tune voids that. So should I even bother bringing it into a dealership for them to look? IF they did look at it or work on it, would they flash my computer and wipe my tune away?
Should I go with a local shop that I trust, but possibly face expensive repairs? Would they need to flash my tune away to sort it out?
Please give me a best case/worst case scenario with cost expectancies.
I'm thinking:
best case is just change the trans fluid = $50-$75
worst case is needing to rebuild transmission = $$????
I hope those are the alfa and omega of my worries.
As title says, please help and maybe ease my mind.
05-29-2013, 05:48 AM
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You can try and flash it back to stock and take it to the dealer. Depending on the tech's they would cover it all under warranty or they could find out it had a tune done to it and might give you flack.
Shame you can't post up a log of you driving it.
Shame you can't post up a log of you driving it.
06-03-2013, 08:08 AM
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Update:
My plan is to have my local trusted shop plug up to it to see if they can diagnose it. If they can't diagnose anything, I won't be charged anything. If they do diagnose something, hopefully small, I'll get it repaired by them and the diagnosis will be free. Even if it's just a solenoid or coil; something minor. Pay for the parts and labor to repair. Couple hundered bucks max. Hopefull $100 range
If they diagnose something big, like needing a full rebuild, then they will charge me $150 forthe diagnosis, but I'll take it to the dealership and get them to fix it under warranty.
From what I've been hearing,
1) For the dealership to not honor my warranty, they have to prove without a doubt that the malfunction came directly from my mod and nothing but my mod could have caused it.
2) They may not even look at my computer settings, especialy if I tell them from the get go what the exact dignosis is. So I have that going for me should I reach that point
AND
3) The small rumbles were felt well before the tune was ever done. Not steering wheel shakers, just teeny tiny vibrations felt in gas pedal and floor board for a split second. And they are still that way. So that's a final fact.
Would anyone go another route? Or at least suggest an alternate route. I'm pretty set on this plan and will start it in the next day or two.
Wish me luck. I'll post back.
My plan is to have my local trusted shop plug up to it to see if they can diagnose it. If they can't diagnose anything, I won't be charged anything. If they do diagnose something, hopefully small, I'll get it repaired by them and the diagnosis will be free. Even if it's just a solenoid or coil; something minor. Pay for the parts and labor to repair. Couple hundered bucks max. Hopefull $100 range
If they diagnose something big, like needing a full rebuild, then they will charge me $150 forthe diagnosis, but I'll take it to the dealership and get them to fix it under warranty.
From what I've been hearing,
1) For the dealership to not honor my warranty, they have to prove without a doubt that the malfunction came directly from my mod and nothing but my mod could have caused it.
2) They may not even look at my computer settings, especialy if I tell them from the get go what the exact dignosis is. So I have that going for me should I reach that point
AND
3) The small rumbles were felt well before the tune was ever done. Not steering wheel shakers, just teeny tiny vibrations felt in gas pedal and floor board for a split second. And they are still that way. So that's a final fact.
Would anyone go another route? Or at least suggest an alternate route. I'm pretty set on this plan and will start it in the next day or two.
Wish me luck. I'll post back.
06-03-2013, 08:28 AM
#5
Update:
My plan is to have my local trusted shop plug up to it to see if they can diagnose it. If they can't diagnose anything, I won't be charged anything. If they do diagnose something, hopefully small, I'll get it repaired by them and the diagnosis will be free. Even if it's just a solenoid or coil; something minor. Pay for the parts and labor to repair. Couple hundered bucks max. Hopefull $100 range
If they diagnose something big, like needing a full rebuild, then they will charge me $150 forthe diagnosis, but I'll take it to the dealership and get them to fix it under warranty.
From what I've been hearing,
1) For the dealership to not honor my warranty, they have to prove without a doubt that the malfunction came directly from my mod and nothing but my mod could have caused it.
2) They may not even look at my computer settings, especialy if I tell them from the get go what the exact dignosis is. So I have that going for me should I reach that point
AND
3) The small rumbles were felt well before the tune was ever done. Not steering wheel shakers, just teeny tiny vibrations felt in gas pedal and floor board for a split second. And they are still that way. So that's a final fact.
Would anyone go another route? Or at least suggest an alternate route. I'm pretty set on this plan and will start it in the next day or two.
Wish me luck. I'll post back.
My plan is to have my local trusted shop plug up to it to see if they can diagnose it. If they can't diagnose anything, I won't be charged anything. If they do diagnose something, hopefully small, I'll get it repaired by them and the diagnosis will be free. Even if it's just a solenoid or coil; something minor. Pay for the parts and labor to repair. Couple hundered bucks max. Hopefull $100 range
If they diagnose something big, like needing a full rebuild, then they will charge me $150 forthe diagnosis, but I'll take it to the dealership and get them to fix it under warranty.
From what I've been hearing,
1) For the dealership to not honor my warranty, they have to prove without a doubt that the malfunction came directly from my mod and nothing but my mod could have caused it.
2) They may not even look at my computer settings, especialy if I tell them from the get go what the exact dignosis is. So I have that going for me should I reach that point
AND
3) The small rumbles were felt well before the tune was ever done. Not steering wheel shakers, just teeny tiny vibrations felt in gas pedal and floor board for a split second. And they are still that way. So that's a final fact.
Would anyone go another route? Or at least suggest an alternate route. I'm pretty set on this plan and will start it in the next day or two.
Wish me luck. I'll post back.
The dealer really doesn't have to prove a thing either. Sure you have the magnuson moss warranty act down there but really do you think a dealer cares? You can tie things up in court, pay the legal costs and probably still lose all while having a truck that is still a mess. If the cal id's don't match when they check it out, the warranty is void. Simple as that. You gotta pay if you want to play. You should have taken this problem to the attention of someone prior to tuning the truck.
I think having someone checking it out otherwise would be a good idea as you mentioned. If the truck is found to have a trans problem that someone may do something about then flash it back to stock and have it repaired.
Thing is though no dealer will care what an independent shop finds or diagnoses. You can go to them with the paperwork and they will ignore it, redo the diagnostic and possibly tell you there is nothing they can do regardless.
Good luck.
07-03-2013, 01:58 AM
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Well the shop did not see anything in the log of them driving it. They never even noticed the drive train "nibble" that I'm trying to describe. 
But I've also recently been told that 6.2's can be notorious for having a slight torque converter slip as part of their normal function. With only 30k miles on the truck, I may still try a flush and refill of the transmission fluid and hope that helps.
But I've also recently been told that 6.2's can be notorious for having a slight torque converter slip as part of their normal function. With only 30k miles on the truck, I may still try a flush and refill of the transmission fluid and hope that helps.
07-04-2013, 04:55 PM
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Yours has active fuel management does it not? The driving conditions you are describing are about the most ideal conditions for active fuel management to engage, if its going to at all. When it does, depending on the vehicle speed and engine load you may hear and or feel the transition from 8 cylinders to 4 cylinders. Its not seamless but smooth enough the average driver won't notice it. Since you are tuned and more than likely have a little more aggressive spark curve in the cruise range it might be making the transition feel more pronounced since the engine is making more torque. What I would do is have Black Bear turn off the active fuel management all together. Active fuel management has virtually no benefit in real world driving.
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09-13-2013, 05:27 PM
#9
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My tranny is starting to slip under hard acceleration in 2nd gear and then flashes. Did it once in 3rd under hard acceleration once as well. Have you had your issue diagnosed or fixed??
