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slotted vs. slotted/drilled rotors

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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:08 AM
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Default slotted vs. slotted/drilled rotors

Rotors online has the following rotors for $120 each:

-slotted
-crossdrilled
-slotted/crossdrilled
-double crossdrilled

Which of these is better and why? I was under the impression that the regular slotted was better because of more surface area. Also, would there be any benefit in running maybe slotted in the front and drilled in the back?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 01:12 AM
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Unless you increase the diameter of the rotor, or you regularly race your truck through the twisties, any reduction in surface area (via slots or drilled holes) will result in a performance decrease.

Slotted or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock should be looked at strictly as a cosmetic upgrade, not a performance upgrade.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by TBSS
Unless you increase the diameter of the rotor, or you regularly race your truck through the twisties, any reduction in surface area (via slots or drilled holes) will result in a performance decrease.

Slotted or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock should be looked at strictly as a cosmetic upgrade, not a performance upgrade.
Really? Isn't there any advantage to quicker cooling of the rotor surface?
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 06:59 AM
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hmm. i've heard people swear by powerslot rotors, and those are stock size.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 08:03 AM
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One advantage to slotting that I read somewhere was a sweeping effect that the slots have on pad material. They basically give the brake dust the ability to clear out between the pad and the rotor rather than build up as a film during braking when the pad has continuous contact with the rotor. Not sure how big of an effect it is or where I read it, but there you go.

Can you resurface powerslot rotors? My stock fronts have started to pulse when they get heated up, and I was thinking of upgrading. Tbyrne sells them for about the same as your basic bendix/wagner OEM replacements.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 09:08 AM
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I have always heard that slotted and/or crossdrilled are better because it helps get the gases out from between the pad and the rotor. It also helps to keep them cool. However, I have also heard that crossdrilled are not the best for the street because they are prone to cracking over time. If I were to choose, I would get slotted and leave it at that.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by NBred94
One advantage to slotting that I read somewhere was a sweeping effect that the slots have on pad material. They basically give the brake dust the ability to clear out between the pad and the rotor rather than build up as a film during braking when the pad has continuous contact with the rotor. Not sure how big of an effect it is or where I read it, but there you go.

Can you resurface powerslot rotors? My stock fronts have started to pulse when they get heated up, and I was thinking of upgrading. Tbyrne sells them for about the same as your basic bendix/wagner OEM replacements.
this is sort of right. the holes or slots provide an outlet for trapped superheated gases that are created from the extreme friction. This results in a cooler rotor and less brake fade. Either are a good means of evacuating the gases, although drilled rotors are usually more susceptible to cracking between the holes over time. Braided stainless lines and a good pad can make noticeable improvements as well.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by smooth sierra
this is sort of right. the holes or slots provide an outlet for trapped superheated gases that are created from the extreme friction.
This is what I have also heard.
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 10:18 AM
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you should look into the ssbc brake kit. they are nice. 400 bucks gets you 4 slotted rotors and pads
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by 02BlueStepside
I have always heard that slotted and/or crossdrilled are better because it helps get the gases out from between the pad and the rotor. It also helps to keep them cool. However, I have also heard that crossdrilled are not the best for the street because they are prone to cracking over time. If I were to choose, I would get slotted and leave it at that.
Twenty years ago when pad materials were inferior, there was such a thing as 'gas buildup.' Now, even OEM pad materials are such that countering this is not required. Also, GM OEM rotors are Brembo blanks, which are pretty damn good rotors, and what some manufacturers use to drill on or grind slots into.

The fact is, if you are not going to upgrade rotor diameter, you should leave your stock rotors alone. The best thing you can do for braking PERFORMANCE short of upgrading with an entire kit is the following:

1) Upgrade pads (i.e. Hawk HPS or similar)
2) Upgrade your fluid to DOT 4 (i.e. ATE Super Blue)
3) Install stainless steel brake lines
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