slotted vs. slotted/drilled rotors
#1
Thread Starter
14 Second Truck Club
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From: Bossier City, LA
Rotors online has the following rotors for $120 each:
-slotted
-crossdrilled
-slotted/crossdrilled
-double crossdrilled
Which of these is better and why? I was under the impression that the regular slotted was better because of more surface area. Also, would there be any benefit in running maybe slotted in the front and drilled in the back?
-slotted
-crossdrilled
-slotted/crossdrilled
-double crossdrilled
Which of these is better and why? I was under the impression that the regular slotted was better because of more surface area. Also, would there be any benefit in running maybe slotted in the front and drilled in the back?
#2
Unless you increase the diameter of the rotor, or you regularly race your truck through the twisties, any reduction in surface area (via slots or drilled holes) will result in a performance decrease.
Slotted or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock should be looked at strictly as a cosmetic upgrade, not a performance upgrade.
Slotted or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock should be looked at strictly as a cosmetic upgrade, not a performance upgrade.
#3
Originally Posted by TBSS
Unless you increase the diameter of the rotor, or you regularly race your truck through the twisties, any reduction in surface area (via slots or drilled holes) will result in a performance decrease.
Slotted or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock should be looked at strictly as a cosmetic upgrade, not a performance upgrade.
Slotted or drilled rotors of the same diameter as stock should be looked at strictly as a cosmetic upgrade, not a performance upgrade.
#5
One advantage to slotting that I read somewhere was a sweeping effect that the slots have on pad material. They basically give the brake dust the ability to clear out between the pad and the rotor rather than build up as a film during braking when the pad has continuous contact with the rotor. Not sure how big of an effect it is or where I read it, but there you go.
Can you resurface powerslot rotors? My stock fronts have started to pulse when they get heated up, and I was thinking of upgrading. Tbyrne sells them for about the same as your basic bendix/wagner OEM replacements.
Can you resurface powerslot rotors? My stock fronts have started to pulse when they get heated up, and I was thinking of upgrading. Tbyrne sells them for about the same as your basic bendix/wagner OEM replacements.
#6
I have always heard that slotted and/or crossdrilled are better because it helps get the gases out from between the pad and the rotor. It also helps to keep them cool. However, I have also heard that crossdrilled are not the best for the street because they are prone to cracking over time. If I were to choose, I would get slotted and leave it at that.
#7
Originally Posted by NBred94
One advantage to slotting that I read somewhere was a sweeping effect that the slots have on pad material. They basically give the brake dust the ability to clear out between the pad and the rotor rather than build up as a film during braking when the pad has continuous contact with the rotor. Not sure how big of an effect it is or where I read it, but there you go.
Can you resurface powerslot rotors? My stock fronts have started to pulse when they get heated up, and I was thinking of upgrading. Tbyrne sells them for about the same as your basic bendix/wagner OEM replacements.
Can you resurface powerslot rotors? My stock fronts have started to pulse when they get heated up, and I was thinking of upgrading. Tbyrne sells them for about the same as your basic bendix/wagner OEM replacements.
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#8
Originally Posted by smooth sierra
this is sort of right. the holes or slots provide an outlet for trapped superheated gases that are created from the extreme friction.
#10
Originally Posted by 02BlueStepside
I have always heard that slotted and/or crossdrilled are better because it helps get the gases out from between the pad and the rotor. It also helps to keep them cool. However, I have also heard that crossdrilled are not the best for the street because they are prone to cracking over time. If I were to choose, I would get slotted and leave it at that.
The fact is, if you are not going to upgrade rotor diameter, you should leave your stock rotors alone. The best thing you can do for braking PERFORMANCE short of upgrading with an entire kit is the following:
1) Upgrade pads (i.e. Hawk HPS or similar)
2) Upgrade your fluid to DOT 4 (i.e. ATE Super Blue)
3) Install stainless steel brake lines


