Hydroboost conversion problems
 

Swapped to hydroboost in my 2000 silvy half ton 2wd. Followed directions found here. Went pretty well except for a few things. The pedal goes down about 2/3 the way before it has any "feel". The last 1/3 stops about as good as the vac system. The ps fluid is topped off and brake fluid to. Also feels like the brakes could be dragging some. I havnt jacked it up to tell yet. Any ideas?

Most problems with pedal travel seem to be air. I would try to jack the front up and turn the wheel side to side, a few times. Key on engine off. It will help push the air into the reservoir. When properly bled, it should only have about 1/2" of free travel up top.

From unhooking the brake lines do you think those need blead too?

If you just swapped the booster you didnt need, nor should have, touched the brake lines. The excess travel is from air in the PS system.

I swapped everything. Haha. What's the best way to bleed ps, like stated above? How many times back and forth do you suggest

Then you need to bleed the brakes as well.

If you swapped the master cylinder, stop pressing the brake without first bench bleeding the master! If you get air in the ABS module, it might need to be bled with a GM Tech2 Scanner.

Bench bleed the master (google it, ton's of how-to's and videos), then bleed the brakes at the calipers traditionally like normal. Hopefully you get it all out.

Most write-ups I've read say approx 20 times back and forth, or until you stop seeing little air bubbles in the P/S reservoir.

For what it's worth the truck I took it off up was togther. I pulled it as a togther assembly.

I got mine that way too, but I just unbolted the master and left mine connected in my truck. Put the hydroboost unit between the firewall and master, do the pump and lines, done. No brake bleed necessary. You'll just have to spend a bit of time bleeding them, no biggie, just a bit more work.

If you never bled the brakes you need to do that.