If the Line, or fitting is already Fudged up, Use a pair of vise grips on the fitting to remove it.

 

I tried that, and couldn't get enough on it. I am going to give it another try, but wondering If my pliers size vise grips were too bulky. Not sure if the needle nose style would work in there. I had to order a pickle fork so I have time to go back at it

 

You have to be smarter than what your working on. Don't let it out smart you...

I have only had luck with Legit Vise grip brand vise grips. The New Milwaukee version seem to work well too. I crank on them to the point where you almost need a pair of large channel locks to get them to close and lock.

 

That bar's pretty low. Watch you don't trip on it.

I have a cheap old pair, and I can use an excuse to go pick up a couple more locking pliers. I have been getting Milwaukee tools lately. I'll pick up a long nose and a standard pair tomorrow, and give it another go. The pickle fork will be here later tonight, and that doesn't seem that difficult if it comes down to it.

 

A little ingenuity to press the offset bolt out. Now to find the socket and spacer that went flying when it broke loose lol.

Can anyone tell me for sure if the empty hole in the hydroboost bracket lines up with the 4th hole in the firewall for the vacuum booster? Or would I have to drill a new hole in the bracket? Haven’t started the swap yet, just getting every ready.

 

The vacuum booster bolting pattern is a square, and the bottom right is the only on that is off. If its squared you should be right on.




To anyone else doing this, I think my only suggestion would be, that if you are a big guy, using a ratchet and not something powered, (even though this should be your excuse to buy one if you don't have it already,) its two bolts (7/16"), two nuts (15mm), and 82 seconds to take to the drivers seat out (that's on a captains chair, bench might be a hair more fun).


You definitely don't need to pull the steering pump, unless you are replacing it (, if you'd rather not buy or rent a puller). Pull the 5 bolts on the splash shield and you will have plenty of access. A 18mm crow foot (with ~9+", of extensions ) allows all the access you need to get the lines off. (I think you need one of these even if you do it from the top). One like this, lets you get around 4 sides instead of two. (Amazon, $6).




My initial reviews are I like it. The pedal goes to the floor before you start it, and the pump kicks in. I would compare the feel to how my vacuum booster was after the second or third pump. Its not overly firm. I want to compare it to a 6' 300 pounder, fat vs muscle.

 

The open hole in the hydroboost unit doesn’t line up perfectly with the hole in the firewall, but close enough that it can be opened up and press the bolt into the hole of the hydroboost flange. Or just run 3.

This may have been covered somewhere in here, but if not, it’s another option.

 

Its been brought up in at least one of the threads; but I think you are the first who posted a pic that clearly shows it won't just line up without drilling out a hole.

 

The Dimple in the fire wall on the right below the other hole is for the offset stud on the hydro boost.

 

My truck is '03 Silverado 4WD with 4-wheel disc JC3 brakes... all new stuff, but still weak brakes. So I am gonna try the Hydroboost conversion. Has anyone bought parts from these guys: www.powerbrakeservice.net ?? I prefer to buy all new stuff, a little more money, but less hassles IMHO.