03chevyroyce

iTrader: (2)

After taking a long time off from driving the truck, I got her street legal again this last week. Driving it around I realized the brakes felt pretty bad and don't stop worth a damn. Not trying to do a brake conversion or anything major, but would like it to stop better than currently. Thanks guys and happy to be back

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

I've spent a LOT of time researching pads which just ended in frustration.

One person will say brand X of pads is awesome, and another will say they're terrible.

I'm running the Raybestos semi-metallic police pads on front with the 05+ rotors/calipers and 1990 OBS brakes on the rear with whatever pads the calipers came with. The front pads seem to work well, but there is a pretty dramatic difference between cold and when they're hot; they work great the hotter they get. A lot of dust on the wheels though.

I've never been happy with the brakes even with hydroboost and the 05s up front. Felt like the harder the pressed the pedal, I wasn't getting much more braking. Well, I recently did the SS brake lines and automated ABS bleed and it's a night and day difference. Quite a bit of air came out on the conventional bleed following the ABS bleed. How it got in there I don't know, but I'm assuming from boiling the brake fluid over time. The brakes are so much better now, I'd have a very hard time justifying spending any more money on them. Although, I have been very curious about putting "better" pads on it.

People like their pedal feel differently, I prefer a strong initial bite with minimal pedal effort. People have said that the EBC green pads give tremendous initial bite but dust like crap and don't last worth crap. Others swear by Hawk HPS. For low or no dusting and long life, Akebono ceramic pads are the concensus choice.

03chevyroyce

iTrader: (2)

Sweet!Thank you for the info

When you did the ABS bleed, did it involve using a diag tool like a tech2? I probably need to do a bleed when I change the pads and rotors, as the truck does have 152xxx miles now and I'm pretty sure the fluid is original

GMCtrk

iTrader: (27)

We used a snap-on Solus. So yes, you do need a tech II type tool.

Technically, you are supposed to do the ABS bleed any time you open up the system, and it truly did make a significant change for me.

FFDP

iTrader: (2)

I like the napa SS pads or their adaptive one pads, both are good quality and neither dust.

They work fine for every day driving and seem fine even when you get them somewhat hot. I guess it depends on the feel you want or how much you want to spend.

GM_Devil

iTrader: (2)

I had the EBC yellow stuff and they were sh*t. dust so bad and wore out so fast. got rid of them and did some napa pads for half the price then the EBC and they work just the same, only a little brake fade but not enough to bother me. doing the C6 Z06 conversion when i get my rotors next week. I got Hawk HPS one piece pads for those. my dad has them on his vette an they stop amazing and hardly any dust.

Doing SS lines though makes the BIGGEST difference in pedal feel. was really happy with them when i put them on.

bobfig

i had hawk lts pads that were good. the calipers decided to lock up and started to smoke but they still stopped well. they were dusty and covered the wheels after a few days. now im on some wagner ceramic pads and they have been awesome also. they also have little dust and haven't noticed any build up on the wheels.

both of these were on power slot rotors.

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

Told you so!

Alot of people think activating the ABS on a gravel road will remove the air from the system. As I am sure you could see from how the procedure takes place, there is no way to duplicate that process without a scan tool with Bi-directional control.


As far as pad's, I have used various brands and have had the best overall luck with the Centric brand stuff. I always get the OE specified compound for the application.

skolman91

iTrader: (28)

I have had my system open twice never really thought much about it until i replaced my brake lines recently and used a pressure bleeder. It helped compared to conventional bleeding so i think you're on to something even tho i dont know what the scan tool process is..

1FastBrick

iTrader: (17)

The factory tool cycles the ABS pump while you manually push the pedal down. It cycles fluid through the system. It's difficult to explain, you have to see it to better understand it.

As mentioned, it makes a huge difference in pedal feel