See photo at bottom

Another site

Yet another site

Still another

One more

Here's a nice guide as well:

 

front d/s angle needs to be within 1 deg of the trans ouput angle, ideally the same angle

 

Thanks, but none of those apply to my situation. I would like to see a write up on getting the correct driveline angles on a lowered truck with a 2-piece DS. That would give me the answers I need.
One piece DS applications are easy to adjust angles and figure out, but a 2-piece DS system is another ball game all together.
Any write ups on a 2-piece DS on a lowered truck?

Jim

 

One and two piece driveshafts

Follow the links at the bottom of the article for more info.

 

The best in the business. They have a free replacement guarantee on their nitrous d-shaft. Now that's having confidence in your product.

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/

 

When I lowered my ext cab I was worried I would have vibrations.. Aftr I installed it though I had no problems at all.. This made me worried! I called belltech and asked them why I dident have the problem, and how to identify the problem if I AM having it. I was told that I was just very fortunate and got off easy and wouldent ahve to install the kit. As for identifying the problem, he told emt hat it would be VERY aparent from the second I put it in a drive gear. I dotn know if the 64-68mph is caused by the drop if what they told me is correct, then you should ahve the problem more low-end than at highway speeds. Im no pro though, so call up your drop kit mfg and ask them!

-Lurius

 

Awesome site. This pic says it all.


Front shaft should be considered an extension of the tranny talshaft, therefore it should be at the same angle and have a working angle of the first u-joint be 0*. Then the rear shaft is treated as if it is the only shaft in the driveline. Makes since.

 

That will not work for me. If I set the front DS exactly levle with the tranny output shaft, then the final DS section will be inline as well with the front DS.
Basically, the Rear end is practically level with everything. There is not much slope there when carrier is set even with tranny.
All these pics and diagrams shown are not identifying a lowered truck with a 2-piece DS. It makes the situation a lot harder to get right.

Jim

 

Update:
I set the pinion angle 1-1/2* lower than the tranny output angle (4.5*down)
Pinion angle is at 3* up.
I then raised the carrier bearing up some. This took away from my vibrations, but they are still there.
I want a few of you guys to think about what a carrier bearing relocator kit does. It raises the carrier bearing about 2-3" higher than stock. So, if this is the case, how in the world would the tranny output angle and the front DS section going to be anywhere close to 1/2-1* of each other??? It aint even going to be close to that.
Ok, when you do a carrier bearing relocator kit, what are you setting the pinion angle to? The tranny output angle or the front DS output?
This is where I'm confused at.
Anyone know of a highly recommended driveline shop in Houston or surrounding area to take my truck to fix these problems?? I hate to even think about it, but I keep running into dead ends with all of this. The info I keep reading really isn't helping all that much when you relocate the carrier bearing.
I need more info on all of this please.
What do I need to do??????

Jim

 

Your problem is pulsation, not vibration. Under acceleration your pinion angle is rolling up and aligning the pinion and the drive shaft. U-joints are designed to work at angles. When the front is at an angle and the rear is straight with the drive shaft this causes speed change in the drive shaft at a high frequency......your problem. Keep adding shim turning the pinion down until it goes away. I have added as much as 6-8* to fix in the past. Turning the pinion down helps traction also.