Difficulty removing trans pan 5.3?
#1
Difficulty removing trans pan 5.3?
Difficulty removing trans pan?
07 saab97x 5.3i same as V8 model trailblazer crossover exhaust seams to be obstructing dropping pan.
I’m trying to drain the trans. And replace filter. First I need to completely drop the pan or is the filter swaped w/ pan hanging down?
Any tips on dropping the GM trans pan. Thanks TB
07 saab97x 5.3i same as V8 model trailblazer crossover exhaust seams to be obstructing dropping pan.
I’m trying to drain the trans. And replace filter. First I need to completely drop the pan or is the filter swaped w/ pan hanging down?
Any tips on dropping the GM trans pan. Thanks TB
#3
unbolting the Y-pipe was a PITA when I did the lifter swap (did this job at a friends that had air tools) all the bolts where rusted and a couple just broke (I soaked these bolts w/ liquid wrench for a few days) way to much crape but mite be easier now w/ new bolts.
I actuelly ordered these bolts my friend said don't use that cheap Chinese junk and gave me some expensive I think he said they where $18 for a 6pack they looked just like the chinese zink bolts not like the $19. racing bolts at amazone.
plan A:I actually think if the shifter was moved a tad I could wiggle the pan down I believe GM used a star type screw (unknown size) to prevent DIYers from maintaining the car.
plan B:have you tryed to use a racket strape to pull down on the pass. side exhaust, I've sean a few videos of this procedure however it was on a silverado?
plan C: cut that dam pipe out the way remember GM 4th gen F-bodys w/ the flattened Y-pipe I can take out GM caused fustration on flattening the pipe.
plan D: put back together w/ old fliter and incorporate a externel fliter.
edit: can the trans be jacked up for extra clearance? if yes how?
edit2: if I had your exhaust you where selling would this still be a issue?
Thanks for advice TB
I actuelly ordered these bolts my friend said don't use that cheap Chinese junk and gave me some expensive I think he said they where $18 for a 6pack they looked just like the chinese zink bolts not like the $19. racing bolts at amazone.
plan A:I actually think if the shifter was moved a tad I could wiggle the pan down I believe GM used a star type screw (unknown size) to prevent DIYers from maintaining the car.
plan B:have you tryed to use a racket strape to pull down on the pass. side exhaust, I've sean a few videos of this procedure however it was on a silverado?
plan C: cut that dam pipe out the way remember GM 4th gen F-bodys w/ the flattened Y-pipe I can take out GM caused fustration on flattening the pipe.
plan D: put back together w/ old fliter and incorporate a externel fliter.
edit: can the trans be jacked up for extra clearance? if yes how?
edit2: if I had your exhaust you where selling would this still be a issue?
Thanks for advice TB
Last edited by thebrain; 03-31-2019 at 05:52 AM.
#4
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the filter sits on the bottom of the pan so if you measure the pan height you can see if you have enough room, i dont think you will gain much jacking up the trans id guess maybe an inch?
i just had to pull my Y pipe to swap transmissions spent 3 hours on 1 nut nothing would free it and rounded it off trying to get it off, finally gave up and grabbed my dremal and sliced the nut with out harming the stud
i just had to pull my Y pipe to swap transmissions spent 3 hours on 1 nut nothing would free it and rounded it off trying to get it off, finally gave up and grabbed my dremal and sliced the nut with out harming the stud
#6
Update on progress:
I pryed on the y-pipe and almost had the pan out. Decided to not try to loosen Y (really need taller front stands),
and go to plan D.
When the pan was hanging I was able to drain maybe 2 quarts. Reinstalled pan w/ whatever gasket was stuck to pan.
Then I removed the trans cooler line placed metal and rubber tubes into a bucket started engine fluid went everywhere then I quickly realigned bucket turned off engine when the fluid started sputtering, let drip then restarted a few more times (4) letting it run maybe 10 seconds each time I don’t think it ran dry at least I hope I didn’t.
I didn't add flud while it was being pumped out.
Probably drained out total 6 quarts of nasty black fluid however there was a little redness, added a tad less than 5 quarts.
Plan to let the fluid go down into pan before restarting engine.
I think this trans holds 16 quarts and I was only able to drain 6 even when pumping it out.
The rear dif. Fought me for a couple days the lowest cover bolt was totally rusted to cover and the outside head of bolt basically crumbled I grinded a grove for a flathead screw driver but ended up using the grove to beaton w/ a hammer and screw driver.
I need a rest and research to attempt the front diff.
the transfer case was easy compared to trans.
Thanks Guy’s for advice TB
I pryed on the y-pipe and almost had the pan out. Decided to not try to loosen Y (really need taller front stands),
and go to plan D.
When the pan was hanging I was able to drain maybe 2 quarts. Reinstalled pan w/ whatever gasket was stuck to pan.
Then I removed the trans cooler line placed metal and rubber tubes into a bucket started engine fluid went everywhere then I quickly realigned bucket turned off engine when the fluid started sputtering, let drip then restarted a few more times (4) letting it run maybe 10 seconds each time I don’t think it ran dry at least I hope I didn’t.
I didn't add flud while it was being pumped out.
Probably drained out total 6 quarts of nasty black fluid however there was a little redness, added a tad less than 5 quarts.
Plan to let the fluid go down into pan before restarting engine.
I think this trans holds 16 quarts and I was only able to drain 6 even when pumping it out.
The rear dif. Fought me for a couple days the lowest cover bolt was totally rusted to cover and the outside head of bolt basically crumbled I grinded a grove for a flathead screw driver but ended up using the grove to beaton w/ a hammer and screw driver.
I need a rest and research to attempt the front diff.
the transfer case was easy compared to trans.
Thanks Guy’s for advice TB
#7
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#8
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Minimal difficulty in spite of questionable OE packaging.
I simply persuaded the exhaust crossover down ~1/2" and then the pan will then slip right past.
No leaks no squeaks and not a single rusty nut.
Plenty of debris in mine at its 50,000 mile filter and fluid renewal.
I simply persuaded the exhaust crossover down ~1/2" and then the pan will then slip right past.
No leaks no squeaks and not a single rusty nut.
Plenty of debris in mine at its 50,000 mile filter and fluid renewal.
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