AAM "14-bolt" in early GMT800
05-16-2018, 07:02 AM
#1
AAM "14-bolt" in early GMT800
OK, so after mistakenly hitting "4HI" on dry pavement going 50 my aged rear end is done. Pretty sure it had been swapped at some point anyway because the glove box says it should have a GT4/G80 in it but it's a peg leg and a total dog. In my experience a 3.73 is a little peppier. Anyway, with 300,000mi on the truck I'm not buying a factory unit and disc brake GT4/G80 10-bolt units with good bearings are hard to find reasonably and it'll cost $500+ to rebuild the existing one at a shop. Truck has 3" blocks and pinion alignment shims from Supreme Suspensions.
So...I found a AAM "14-bolt" from a 2005 Silverado SS. 3.73 locker, non-floating, six-lug, 115k miles. Good price and he delivered
Looks like everything is groovy with a 1350 (AAM) to 3R/S44 (10-bolt) adapter U-joint. Next issue to tackle is driveshaft length. The wisdom of the internets says the current shaft will end up 5/8" "too" long. Question is, can that 5/8" be taken up with slip in the slip yoke? Is there a shorter slip yoke I can buy? Can i just shift the rear axle back 5/8" on the leaf springs?
This is not worth having a custom driveshaft made.
So...I found a AAM "14-bolt" from a 2005 Silverado SS. 3.73 locker, non-floating, six-lug, 115k miles. Good price and he delivered
Looks like everything is groovy with a 1350 (AAM) to 3R/S44 (10-bolt) adapter U-joint. Next issue to tackle is driveshaft length. The wisdom of the internets says the current shaft will end up 5/8" "too" long. Question is, can that 5/8" be taken up with slip in the slip yoke? Is there a shorter slip yoke I can buy? Can i just shift the rear axle back 5/8" on the leaf springs?
This is not worth having a custom driveshaft made.
05-16-2018, 09:54 AM
#2
When I did the 14 bolt in my 02 Tahoe, I had to have the shaft cut, the slip would not take up the difference.
It cost ~$100 for a cut/weld/balance. For the price, assuming it is similar in your area, I cant really imagine why you wouldnt do it. All the options you listed are less than stellar compared to just getting the shaft cut.
To add to the confusion, some guys claim they never had to cut anything, and it all just bolted right up like it was supposed to be there.
Good luck. I had to cut it, and I would suggest you do too.
It cost ~$100 for a cut/weld/balance. For the price, assuming it is similar in your area, I cant really imagine why you wouldnt do it. All the options you listed are less than stellar compared to just getting the shaft cut.
To add to the confusion, some guys claim they never had to cut anything, and it all just bolted right up like it was supposed to be there.
Good luck. I had to cut it, and I would suggest you do too.
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benjaminearle (05-16-2018)
05-16-2018, 04:51 PM
#3
When I did the 14 bolt in my 02 Tahoe, I had to have the shaft cut, the slip would not take up the difference.
It cost ~$100 for a cut/weld/balance. For the price, assuming it is similar in your area, I cant really imagine why you wouldnt do it. All the options you listed are less than stellar compared to just getting the shaft cut.
To add to the confusion, some guys claim they never had to cut anything, and it all just bolted right up like it was supposed to be there.
Good luck. I had to cut it, and I would suggest you do too.
It cost ~$100 for a cut/weld/balance. For the price, assuming it is similar in your area, I cant really imagine why you wouldnt do it. All the options you listed are less than stellar compared to just getting the shaft cut.
To add to the confusion, some guys claim they never had to cut anything, and it all just bolted right up like it was supposed to be there.
Good luck. I had to cut it, and I would suggest you do too.
05-17-2018, 01:08 AM
#4
The factory 2 piece drive shaft is 5/8 shorter on the second half of the shaft for a 14 bolt application.
Why not see if the guy has the drive shaft available.
If not, it's not that expensive and they can convert it to take a standard 1350 joint Vs. the bastard joint you will have to run.
Why not see if the guy has the drive shaft available.
If not, it's not that expensive and they can convert it to take a standard 1350 joint Vs. the bastard joint you will have to run.
05-17-2018, 04:50 AM
#5
The factory 2 piece drive shaft is 5/8 shorter on the second half of the shaft for a 14 bolt application.
Why not see if the guy has the drive shaft available.
If not, it's not that expensive and they can convert it to take a standard 1350 joint Vs. the bastard joint you will have to run.
Why not see if the guy has the drive shaft available.
If not, it's not that expensive and they can convert it to take a standard 1350 joint Vs. the bastard joint you will have to run.
Guess it's easy enough to add a center joint support if i need to.
I do like the idea of being able to run a standard 1350 joint.
05-17-2018, 08:11 PM
#6
I'll check with the seller on the driveshaft. He forgot the yoke caps and hasn't found them yet so I'm guessing the driveshaft is long gone too, plus that was behind a different trans so unsure if the front end would work.
Guess it's easy enough to add a center joint support if i need to.
I do like the idea of being able to run a standard 1350 joint.
Guess it's easy enough to add a center joint support if i need to.
I do like the idea of being able to run a standard 1350 joint.
The 05-07 classic with the RPO code AXN Vs. the same truck with a 10 bolt and a 5.3L uses the same front portion of the 2 piece drive shaft and the rear section is 5/8 of an inch shorter.
Both are 4L60E based transmissions.
05-18-2018, 06:29 AM
#7
What Trans do you Have? What cab configuration do you have?
The 05-07 classic with the RPO code AXN Vs. the same truck with a 10 bolt and a 5.3L uses the same front portion of the 2 piece drive shaft and the rear section is 5/8 of an inch shorter.
Both are 4L60E based transmissions.
The 05-07 classic with the RPO code AXN Vs. the same truck with a 10 bolt and a 5.3L uses the same front portion of the 2 piece drive shaft and the rear section is 5/8 of an inch shorter.
Both are 4L60E based transmissions.
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07-18-2018, 06:25 AM
#9
gonna have to shorten
SO... I got the AAM rear end Krylon rebuilt and under the truck - by myself and in the driveway. It's stupid humid right now so I'm quite proud of that. Also a new set of extended RS5000 Ranchos are under there.
Put the trick U-joint in to convert the 1500 driveshaft (Aluminum, one-piece) to the AAM's larger caps. That went smoothly when I finally found a joint with the right caps. Too many damn options, GM.
Tried to put it in last weekend and...nope. By my measurements the shaft needs to be about 1.25" shorter. Guess I'm somehow hauling a very long shaft around in my daily car. Does this amount of shortening seem excessive to anyone?
The inside of the old diff was quote a site. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FqLKaSatwNr442yM8
I'm thankful that I kept lube in it so at least it was a clean machining operation!
Put the trick U-joint in to convert the 1500 driveshaft (Aluminum, one-piece) to the AAM's larger caps. That went smoothly when I finally found a joint with the right caps. Too many damn options, GM.
Tried to put it in last weekend and...nope. By my measurements the shaft needs to be about 1.25" shorter. Guess I'm somehow hauling a very long shaft around in my daily car. Does this amount of shortening seem excessive to anyone?
The inside of the old diff was quote a site. https://photos.app.goo.gl/FqLKaSatwNr442yM8
I'm thankful that I kept lube in it so at least it was a clean machining operation!
07-20-2018, 01:22 PM
#10
Driveshaft is out being shortened today. 4-hour turnaround. Excellent pricing. Props to Driveline Service of North Atlanta!
Last edited by 1FastBrick; 07-21-2018 at 01:08 PM.
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