9.5" 14bolt limits? Discuss
#41
Ok that coincides with what I've read before. I've found the 1541-h axles for the big bearing style all over. It was the small bearing I couldn't find. But now I have, thanks. Is there really that big of a difference in strength from the big bearing to the small? I mean right after the bearing I think they both shrink down.
I wonder if somebody can make a 1410 yoke for the 9.5". They went to that on the 10.5 cause people were breakin the 1350 10.5 yoke with big torque (diesel) or with big tires. It was considered the weak link on the 10.5".
I wonder if somebody can make a 1410 yoke for the 9.5". They went to that on the 10.5 cause people were breakin the 1350 10.5 yoke with big torque (diesel) or with big tires. It was considered the weak link on the 10.5".
Well consider this. They used the larger bearing and shaft in the 3/4 ton application. In stock forum I have yet to see a falure that was NOT caused by Lack of maintance or a sever wreck.
The smaller SS style has had a few broken flanges when subjected to heavy use. It's been documented on other sites. they usually replace with 1541-h aftermarket axles and the issue seems to go away...
Last edited by 1FastBrick; Feb 20, 2011 at 10:23 AM.
#42
Yukon says it's big bearing axles are 1541-h. I'll have to look again.
http://www.yukongear.com/PartsList.a...le+(Both+Sides)
http://www.yukongear.com/PartsList.a...le+(Both+Sides)
#43
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From: Jacksonville FL.
Very good info here. Thanks for all the explanations.
I see the stock axles tapper at multiple spots but some after market companies make more of a solid width through out. This is suppose to help with torsional strength correct?
I see the stock axles tapper at multiple spots but some after market companies make more of a solid width through out. This is suppose to help with torsional strength correct?
#44
#45
I don't have 800 horsepower but I am regearing my 3.73 9.5 14 bolt rear on my 2002 1500HD. I wanted to go to 4.56 but got scared of spending the money and not being happy with it. I bought a 4.10 front diff off a 2500hd and I am having the rear completely rebuilt with an eaton truetrac and 4.10. I do plan on doing engine work, cam and heads later. I guess what I'm trying to get at is how does your vehicle perform with 4.56 gears? If you had the stock engine back in it do you think you'd be running real high RPM's on the highway and would the gas mileage be worse? This is a daily driver that I do like to take on class IV roads and light trails. Just trying to make this better than it was stock.
#46
If you want to save money on the 4.10s and would prefer an electronic locker you could buy an H2 axle for $450 and take the guts out. OEM gears are often considered superior to aftermarket.
#47
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 16,282
Likes: 438
From: Huntsville, AL
Well this is a throwback thread...
Loved the 4.56s on that setup, one of the best things I did and should have done it sooner.
Axle is still kicking around, I eventually regeard it back to 3.73 and put it in my turbo truck where its been at 1000hp+ for like 10 years now on 3 or 4 different engine setups and never had an issue except I think I need to replace the pinion seal.
Loved the 4.56s on that setup, one of the best things I did and should have done it sooner.
Axle is still kicking around, I eventually regeard it back to 3.73 and put it in my turbo truck where its been at 1000hp+ for like 10 years now on 3 or 4 different engine setups and never had an issue except I think I need to replace the pinion seal.
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