4l80 swapped converter fitment
 

Guys that have done a 4l80 swap, do you remember if you had a air gap between the converter and flexplate once the trans was bolted on? I have no gap. Converter bolt flanges are touching the flexplate and converter pilot is against the trans pump. Converter does spin somewhat freely. Is this right? 03 SSS with Hughes 4l80 and converter. "Long Crank" with JW flexplate. Referencing the pic of Hughes provided measurements of "A" and "B" states that A should be greater than B. My measurements were identical at 1/2". Is the converter pilot supposed to be against trans pump? Or will that cause wear while the converter spins?

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So my converter wasn't all the way on the trans input. That's fixed. Now, with the trans bolted to the block and the converter fully in, I have a gap of 9/16" from the converter pads to the flat flex plate. Now if I use washers to shim the converter the recommended gal of 1/8"-3/16", from the 9/16" that it's at, wouldn't that pull the convert snout key ways too far out of the trans input?

I believe my issue sue is I'm running a JW flat flex plate. Can anyone with the TCI 4l80 flex plate tell me how tall the mounting pads are that the converter bolts up to? Thank you

I think this is the same post on FB that we were commenting on? you may have got your answer there but ... when the converter first goes in on the trans, you shouldn't be able to get your hand behind it; it'll be fully seated/engaged on the pump. Then, you should have a 1/8 - 3/16 air gap to the flex plate with the snout slid into the crank. If too much air gap, add shims between flex plate and converter pads to achieve that gap. Then, bolting on the converter pulls the converter out 1/8 - 3/16 from the fully seater position. That's perfect and allows for the converter to moved forward and back with the flexing of the flex plate without damaging anything.
If you look at the flats on the converter, there's plenty of meat there for the pump to catch on.

Mean green, when you say the flats of the converter, are talking about the two key ways that are about 3/4" deep?

Yes it was me on the FB post as well. I got my answers as far as the converter not being all the way on the input shaft. Now my concern is the 9/16" air gap. If I shim it to 3/16", that pulls the converter key way back out 3/8" and seems a bit much. Is that safe?