4L60e 2WD removal with pics
 

I am removing my transmission for a suspected 3-4 clutch failure. I am going to rebuild it as a 4L65e Level 7

I copied the parts list pretty much from FLT's site. In no way do I claim that this is the same as their Level 7. Although I believe I am more than capable of handling this myself, there is a difference between a guy doing it in his garage and someone who is an expert and does it every day.

I had several people flake out on me that were supposed to help me the last 3 weeks in a row. I am fed up and decided to just do it myself. I also decided since I dont even have all the parts yet and Im not in a rush, I would take pictures and create a thread so maybe some first-timers could get some help.



the first part is the most inportant. I cannot stress enough how critical it is to be safe. I have heard too many stories about how so and so was only trying to do something really quick and the truck rolled off the jack or jack stands and crushed them and killed them.

do not ever rely on the jack, always use jack stands, and never jack up a vehicle on anything other than a level surface.

In addition, I like to violently shake the truck while it's up on the stands, before I get under it. it should only wiggle slightly, any clanking, popping or movement and it's not on the stands right. Be smart, dont kill yourself.



get it high enough to where you will be able to comfortably slide under and have enough room to move your arms around and stuff.


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1. disconnect the battery

2. remove the 6 header flance nuts/bolts. these are 14mm. you can get 5 of them with a 3/8" drive swivel socket and extension. I like to do it by hand with a ratchet.

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the last one you need the same extension, but a deep socket instead of the swivel. its the one on the passenger side right behind the 02 sensor. it may not fit on all the way, but you should be able to egt it on enough to get the bite you need to loosen it.


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leave 1 nut on each side, only remove 4 completely. the two should just be threaded on by hand to hold the pipe up temporarily.


3. remove the 15mm exhuast flange nuts, and seperate the pipes.

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4. disconnect all 4 02 sensor plugs. there are colored tabs that just slide straight out to prevent them from unplugging on accident


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there is one on top of the crossmember on the dirvers side. just follow the wires.

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the two on the passenger side sit above the frame together.


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make sure they are all free and hanging down.


5. remove the transmission mount nut 15mm. it's hidden up inside the crossmember. just get a short extension and crack it loose and remove it


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6. Position a jack undernead the transmission pan so the jack handle is pointing towards the front of the vehicle. this will allow the exhuast to drop right around the jack and nothing will be in the way.

raise the jack so that it is firm against the pan, do not lift the transmission


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7. get the chassis braces out of the way. you do not need to remove them completely. just remove the bolts that are closest to the fron of the vehicle, and only loosen the other two. then the braces can swing out of the way. Less stuff laying around on your garage floor.

loosen

Attachment 143815

swing

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8. now the crossmember needs to come down. there are 4 nuts/bolts, they are 13/16". get a 1/2" impact gun and a wrench for the other side. Remove all 4 nuts and 2 bolts.

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i forgot to take pics before I dropped the exhuast. with the tools out of your way, remove one bolt for the crossmember and let it swing down. Remove the last bolt and get the crossmember out of the way.

Now the Y pip flange will be resting on the right side of the crossmember bracket.

Remove, by hand, the last two screws you left on the header flanges. you should be able to reach them, if not have a friend help. once theyre out, simply manuever the Y-pipe down to the floor. It should come out like butter. this is exactly why you position the jack this way.


Attachment 143818

nice, what trans pan is that? or did u just paint it black? any problems with your y pipe hitting the pan?

7. Now the starter motor wire nuts. these can be tricky depending on what tools you have. I strongly suggest a 1/4" air ratchet, you can stick it straight through the fender well, over the frame and right into position.

the first nut is 13mm. Place a 1/4" drive 13mm deep sock on the nut, NOT the ratched.

THEN stock the ratched through the fender and frame and attach it to the socket, pull the trigger and youre done.

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the second nut is 5/16", use the same method.


8. now remove the 2 starter mounting bolts, 13mm, carefull, if you zip the last one off too fast it can fall quickly. it should manuever out rather easily. the engine and trans should still be in its original position, not lowered or raise. this makes everything come out easier.


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9. Then remove the plastic cover, it's a single 10mm bolt.


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while you're at it, do the drivers side plastic cover too


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10. Next is the shift cable bracket. it mounts to the trans case with 2 13mm bolts, but first, pop the end off the shift lever. stick a flathead screw driver int between and twist it off.

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2 10mm bolts


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swing the shift cable with bracket still attached out of the way. you can stick it up in the frame behind you


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11. release the E-brake (lever inside cab)


12. position the shift lever into Neutral. grab the lever and swing it towards the back of the truck. when it is all the way in the forward position (park) move it back so that it clicks twice, this will be neutral


park

Attachment 143830


neutral

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12. Disconnect all the sensors. there are different types. the harness sensor can be tricky if you have never seen it before. it has the same green tab the 02 sensors did. slide the tab out.

stick a small flathead in the tang. twist gently to free the connector. this one slides straight down and pulls it apart as you pull down.


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you just need to free it up a bit.


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then reach up and pull it down


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13. the next one (passenger side) is kind of like a safety cap on a bottle. squeeze together and pull straight up.

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14. remove the line bracket on drivers side. 1 8mm bolt

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15. remove the transmission mount. 2- 15mm bolts.

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16. Now you need to reposition the jack. The way i do it requires a few jack position adjustments along the way, but it makes the whole thing easier.

I swing the jack around thats holding the trans pan. just enough to postion another jack to get under the engine oil pan.


Attachment 143840


the jack that is now under the oil pan will hold the weight of the whole assembly.

remove the tranny jack and swing it around so it is pointing the opposite way.


you should put a square block or a couple 2x4's on the jack. something that will disperse the weight of the tranny even across the entire bottom of the trans pan. Make sure you center it the best you can. the tranny will balance like this as it comes down. I use a concrete paving block




Attachment 143841


position the oil pan jack to come out either side of the front fenderwell


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17. now you need to lower the assembly to get access to the rest of the parts.

lower the oil pan jack but leave it in position.

18. now lower the trans jack SLOWLY. you only want it to come down a few inches, for access to cooler lines and bellhousing bolts.


19. raise the oil pan jack just under the pan, "just in case"


20. if your jack handle is in the way, remove the cross brace to give you more travel on the jack handle.


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21. Remove the driveshaft center joint mounting nuts 15mm. no pics, sorry. the nuts are on top of the rubber joint, crack them loose and let the driveshaft fall gently.

slide the slip yoke out of the tranny. slide the driveshaft out of the way as much as possible.



NOTE: This is where I realized i forgot to drain the tranny :(

normally, before I remove any braces or mounts, I will drop the pain and drain the fluid. you dont have to, but the rest of the job is cleaner. I had some fluid to clean up after :cry:


22. next, the cooler lines come off. there are a few steps to this.

A. remove the black collars from the lines.


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B. remove the metal clips that hold the lines in place. Be carefull not to lose these!!


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C. pull the lines out of the case


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23. Remove inspection cover


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24. Use a big flat prybar to stick in the flexplate and turn the motor so you can gain access to the torque converter bolts. or you can use a breaker bar on the crank pulley


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25. Remove the Torque converter bolts. There are 3 of them and they are 15mm


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26. While youre down there, you should be able to reach 4 of the 8 bellhousing bolts. All the bellhousing bolts are 15mm


BH1

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BH2

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BH3

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the 4th one has the dipstick bracket attached to it. This nut is 13mm

it is right above the previously removed BH bolt

here

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remove the nut


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27. Remove the dip stick. The best way is to stick a prybar up into the bracket you just removed, and shove it, or tap with a hammer, upwards. it goes into the pan deep so it may be hard to remove by hand


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28. Now you can remove the BH4 bolt.



29. Move over to the other side of the truck. 2 more bellhousing bolts should be easily accessible with a ratched or air ratchet. these are 15mm like all the others.


30. Now its time to remove the TOP bellhousing bolts. One is dead center and one is off to the left of that.

to my recollection, there is a bracket either on one or both of these. Mine only shows 1 in the pics, but I may have left one off.

YES there is a bolt dead center on the top, and another next to it. TOTAL of 8 BH bolts. by now you should have removed 6.


Here's the on on the left with the brack. The 13mm bolt to hold the bracket has already been removed.


Attachment 143860



I have this badass extension. I have only used this so not sure how hard it is without. It is a 1/2" to 3/8" impact extension.

I wrap the end with teflon tape so the socket doesnt disappear. I use an impact swivel socket


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the beast


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30. with the harness bracket out of the way, now remove the last BH8 bolt.

31. the transmission is now free from the engine. it is most likely still in the exact spot from the dowels.

32. raise the jack under the oil pan, slightly lifting the engine.

33. holding the tailshaft housing, carefull seperate the bellhousing from the engine. it should pop free.

34. check for any hang ups with the harness or brackets, make sure nothing will be caught up.

35. lower the jack a LITTLE. just to start the process. Check AGAIN for hangups.


hard to tell from the pics, but the tranny is lowered a few inches


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36. SLOWLY lower the jack the remainder of the way CONSTANTLY CHECKING for hangups. you dont want anything to get caught and have the trans roll off onto you or your buddy.


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37. even with the tranny on the ground (off the jack) the bellhousing may not clear the frame. slide it over to the side of the truck, roll it over a bit and it will clear. just slide it out.





thats it. I will start a build thread in the project forums.

I hope this helps, if anyone has any questions just ask.



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Here's a thread you may find helpful for your trans rebuild

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...up-photos.html

what did you do to keep your truck so rust free?

how long did it take you to drop the trans?