GM Drivetrain & Suspension Chassis | Transmission| Driveshaft | Gears/Rear End/Differential | Traction Aids

2wd traction in street trim

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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:31 AM
  #21  
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Electronic 3 stage Boost controller you nit wit!!

What's the driveability issue of cal-tracks or 4-link on a D-Driver?
You could always lift the front end so you have a backwards rake so their's less weight transfer when that horrible +150lbs "hits".
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 01:31 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Wilde Racing
I have heard of one thing that may work for you. I personal have yet to try it, it is a box that bolts behind the trans. The box has one input shaft and two output shafts, one of which faces the rear, the other, the front. Kinds hard to explain. Anyway the engine torque is supplied threw the input shaft and distributed equally to both output shafts. The rear output shaft connects to the rearend like a traditional vehicle. The output shaft facing forward is connected to a axle at the front, that still allows the wheels to rotate from left to right. Anyway, like I said kinda hard to explain......
I tried that on my unicycle and it didn't work as well as you'd think!
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:43 AM
  #23  
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how about using efilive to limit timming?
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 08:43 AM
  #24  
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Do you still plan to tow anything with it? If not the ladder bar option would be interesting to see.
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Old Jun 27, 2008 | 05:44 PM
  #25  
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The torque can be controlled by less boost or less timing, I would like to keep the same torque I have now and put it down if at all possible. It's probably not going to happen with the tires I have now, so either new tires will do the trick or a ladder bar may help a little bit. I don't do any towing with the truck.

The speed referenced boost controller would by far be the best way to fix these issues. I am trying to avoid any additional electronics and wiring at this point. I'll keep all these things in mind, thank you guys for the ideas.
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