2005 Silverado engaging 4x4 randomly
#11
I had the same issue on my s10 a few years back. I know its not the same type of truck but my fix was the encoder motor, so if people are stating it can be that i would state the same, the encoder.
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
I talked to one of the guys I work with that does all of our differential and transfer case work. He said that these motors do fail but before just throwing a motor at it you should do some diagnostic first. He said that the switches on these cases fail and also the modules go bad as well. His suggestion was to get a scan tool on your vehicle and go into a section "body controls" section. This section is where you will find other modules other than you TCM that control this type of stuff. HTH Vince
#13
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I guess I will have to put it in the shop. This truck is already on it's 3rd encoder motor. The last one was installed about 12k miles ago. I was hoping it was the switch but based on what you guys are saying, it doesn't sound like it.
Thx.
Thx.
#14
I get this all the time too. Usually there are no lights but when there are it is usually stuck in 4WL tne fronts are not engaged but the trany thinks they are. I have to stop, go to park , shut off the truck, then restart. What a pain.
#15
did you ever find a fix having same problem
#18
Yes the usual problem is the [mrspock]SEN-SORE[/mrspock] but the logic goes something like this:
.
I'm no genius or anything; in fact, people might reasonably ask, what is this DUMBASS even doing trying to DRIVE, much less drive A TRUCK: but at least I'm logical. That's the only way I can avoid taking a left turn and landing in the ditch. So:
I don't even know where you can buy JUST the encoder part of that. Might be such a place, but I've never come across it, again not saying it doesn't exist, but w/e. Even if it exists, what's the difference in $$$?
Given that:
What THE HELL is the benefit in steps 2 through 6? Why not just skip ALL THAT CRAP, and just swap it out? In, out, done, DOWN THE ROAD.
How much PENNIES are you gonna "save" by going through all that?
Just BUY THE DAMN ENCODER MOTOR in its entirety, change it out, and get on down the road. In, out, DONE. Down the road. In your rearview mirror. No worries, half (or less) the time.
Back in the 60s I used to take starters off and swap out the brushes, or the Bendix, or the solenoid, or whatever. Not in 2022. The relative merit vs risk vs $$$ have all changed. in 2022, all that favors JUST CHANGE IT OUT and move on. This is ALOT like that. Just swap it out and be done with it.
.
- Jack up the truck enough to get under it
- Position motor/SEN-SORE assy correctly so that you actually know what gear/mode it's telling the ECM it's in (which of course is THE EXACT PROBLEM you're trying to fix... HOW IN THE HELL are you ever going to know that it's all lined up right???)
- Remove entire encoder/motor assy
- Disassemble
- Verify that all the seals are intact (wouldn't make much sense to put it all back together and then get a grain of sand in it tomorrow, eh???)
- Reassemble CORRECTLY, assuring that the new "encoder" assy matched the existing "motor" assy
- Reinstall
- Hope for the best
I'm no genius or anything; in fact, people might reasonably ask, what is this DUMBASS even doing trying to DRIVE, much less drive A TRUCK: but at least I'm logical. That's the only way I can avoid taking a left turn and landing in the ditch. So:
I don't even know where you can buy JUST the encoder part of that. Might be such a place, but I've never come across it, again not saying it doesn't exist, but w/e. Even if it exists, what's the difference in $$$?
Given that:
What THE HELL is the benefit in steps 2 through 6? Why not just skip ALL THAT CRAP, and just swap it out? In, out, done, DOWN THE ROAD.
How much PENNIES are you gonna "save" by going through all that?
Just BUY THE DAMN ENCODER MOTOR in its entirety, change it out, and get on down the road. In, out, DONE. Down the road. In your rearview mirror. No worries, half (or less) the time.
Back in the 60s I used to take starters off and swap out the brushes, or the Bendix, or the solenoid, or whatever. Not in 2022. The relative merit vs risk vs $$$ have all changed. in 2022, all that favors JUST CHANGE IT OUT and move on. This is ALOT like that. Just swap it out and be done with it.
#19
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (15)
Yes the usual problem is the [mrspock]SEN-SORE[/mrspock] but the logic goes something like this:
.
I'm no genius or anything; in fact, people might reasonably ask, what is this DUMBASS even doing trying to DRIVE, much less drive A TRUCK: but at least I'm logical. That's the only way I can avoid taking a left turn and landing in the ditch. So:
I don't even know where you can buy JUST the encoder part of that. Might be such a place, but I've never come across it, again not saying it doesn't exist, but w/e. Even if it exists, what's the difference in $$$?
Given that:
What THE HELL is the benefit in steps 2 through 6? Why not just skip ALL THAT CRAP, and just swap it out? In, out, done, DOWN THE ROAD.
How much PENNIES are you gonna "save" by going through all that?
Just BUY THE DAMN ENCODER MOTOR in its entirety, change it out, and get on down the road. In, out, DONE. Down the road. In your rearview mirror. No worries, half (or less) the time.
Back in the 60s I used to take starters off and swap out the brushes, or the Bendix, or the solenoid, or whatever. Not in 2022. The relative merit vs risk vs $$$ have all changed. in 2022, all that favors JUST CHANGE IT OUT and move on. This is ALOT like that. Just swap it out and be done with it.
.
- Jack up the truck enough to get under it
- Position motor/SEN-SORE assy correctly so that you actually know what gear/mode it's telling the ECM it's in (which of course is THE EXACT PROBLEM you're trying to fix... HOW IN THE HELL are you ever going to know that it's all lined up right???)
- Remove entire encoder/motor assy
- Disassemble
- Verify that all the seals are intact (wouldn't make much sense to put it all back together and then get a grain of sand in it tomorrow, eh???)
- Reassemble CORRECTLY, assuring that the new "encoder" assy matched the existing "motor" assy
- Reinstall
- Hope for the best
I'm no genius or anything; in fact, people might reasonably ask, what is this DUMBASS even doing trying to DRIVE, much less drive A TRUCK: but at least I'm logical. That's the only way I can avoid taking a left turn and landing in the ditch. So:
I don't even know where you can buy JUST the encoder part of that. Might be such a place, but I've never come across it, again not saying it doesn't exist, but w/e. Even if it exists, what's the difference in $$$?
Given that:
What THE HELL is the benefit in steps 2 through 6? Why not just skip ALL THAT CRAP, and just swap it out? In, out, done, DOWN THE ROAD.
How much PENNIES are you gonna "save" by going through all that?
Just BUY THE DAMN ENCODER MOTOR in its entirety, change it out, and get on down the road. In, out, DONE. Down the road. In your rearview mirror. No worries, half (or less) the time.
Back in the 60s I used to take starters off and swap out the brushes, or the Bendix, or the solenoid, or whatever. Not in 2022. The relative merit vs risk vs $$$ have all changed. in 2022, all that favors JUST CHANGE IT OUT and move on. This is ALOT like that. Just swap it out and be done with it.
The encoder motor is $289 for ACdelco 19125640 . Yes you can get cheap aftermarket one for $100 but they dont last like OEM.
Seems like a no-brainer
#20
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Hi, Gonna try the sensor. Mine kept tossing the code, ground cleaning no help. Random and after weeks I stopped resetting it. No symptoms.
Then after parked while shopping I pulled out and it was in 3rd the way it felt. Would not shift on its own. No indicator lights on the buttons. Pressing 2WD made it blink a few and go off.
Manual got me going. After a key cycle I seen the indicator light blinking and go red for less than a second and then a steady 2WD light.
Thanks for the post, I'll update. It arrives 8/23/2022.
Then after parked while shopping I pulled out and it was in 3rd the way it felt. Would not shift on its own. No indicator lights on the buttons. Pressing 2WD made it blink a few and go off.
Manual got me going. After a key cycle I seen the indicator light blinking and go red for less than a second and then a steady 2WD light.
Thanks for the post, I'll update. It arrives 8/23/2022.