2002 Extended Cab 1500 4L80e swap
#1
2002 Extended Cab 1500 4L80e swap
Thought I would add some information on the 4L80e swap I recently did. Prior to getting started I tried to get as much information I could but was unsure of a few things and just planned on figuring it out as I went. I thought I would add some information for fellow swappers that have a truck similar to mine.
My truck: 02 Silverado 1500 extended cab, 6.5 bed, 143.5 wheel base.
Cross member mid section was moved 6" even, toward the rear. There is some forgiveness here being that the rubber mount that's between the trans tail housing and crossmember can be turned around which gives you about and 1" play. I used the 4L60e mount which works on the 4L80e. 6" is about the max. Somewhere between 5" and 6" should work. Also the stock crossmember is about 3.5" wide. If it was off you could just make the hole a little longer one way or the other.
The Tail shaft yoke I used is a slip yoke. I bolt on or fixed yoke is not needed being that the first half of the driveline is fixed in place due to the carrier baring being bolted to the frame. The slip yoke was pulled from a 4x4 2500. Id did come out of the transfer case but my guess is that gm uses the same yoke for 2wd or 4wd. The yoke splines was 6.75" deep.
The drive shaft was not shortened. Theres another slip yoke after the carrier baring which has a lot of room for error. If someone was overly concerned about the driveline pitch then I suppose someone could find out what the perfect pitch is. Since I did not shorten the rear drive shaft, the u joints end up with less angle. I did check to see how far the rear slip yoke could slide on then pulled it back into its resting place. Still plenty of room. I didn't take a measurement but if my rearend had that much movement to drive the yoke to the point of bottoming out then I've got bigger problems.
The return fluid line was cut and extended back 10.5". I believe the hard lines are 1/4". 3/8" rubber hose slides over for nice fitment.
The torque converter I used was aftermarket, so I just used the flex plate from the 4L60e. If your using the stock 4L80e converter then you'll need the flat flex plate with the spacer. I think it's a .400 spacer.
There was wiring mods at the trans harness and pcm. Lots of sites with very detailed instructions. I used LT1swap.com
Also there is a segment swap that will have to be performed.
My truck: 02 Silverado 1500 extended cab, 6.5 bed, 143.5 wheel base.
Cross member mid section was moved 6" even, toward the rear. There is some forgiveness here being that the rubber mount that's between the trans tail housing and crossmember can be turned around which gives you about and 1" play. I used the 4L60e mount which works on the 4L80e. 6" is about the max. Somewhere between 5" and 6" should work. Also the stock crossmember is about 3.5" wide. If it was off you could just make the hole a little longer one way or the other.
The Tail shaft yoke I used is a slip yoke. I bolt on or fixed yoke is not needed being that the first half of the driveline is fixed in place due to the carrier baring being bolted to the frame. The slip yoke was pulled from a 4x4 2500. Id did come out of the transfer case but my guess is that gm uses the same yoke for 2wd or 4wd. The yoke splines was 6.75" deep.
The drive shaft was not shortened. Theres another slip yoke after the carrier baring which has a lot of room for error. If someone was overly concerned about the driveline pitch then I suppose someone could find out what the perfect pitch is. Since I did not shorten the rear drive shaft, the u joints end up with less angle. I did check to see how far the rear slip yoke could slide on then pulled it back into its resting place. Still plenty of room. I didn't take a measurement but if my rearend had that much movement to drive the yoke to the point of bottoming out then I've got bigger problems.
The return fluid line was cut and extended back 10.5". I believe the hard lines are 1/4". 3/8" rubber hose slides over for nice fitment.
The torque converter I used was aftermarket, so I just used the flex plate from the 4L60e. If your using the stock 4L80e converter then you'll need the flat flex plate with the spacer. I think it's a .400 spacer.
There was wiring mods at the trans harness and pcm. Lots of sites with very detailed instructions. I used LT1swap.com
Also there is a segment swap that will have to be performed.
Last edited by jon1440; 05-12-2019 at 08:58 PM.
#2
Teching In
Thought I would add some information on the 4L80e swap I recently did. Prior to getting started I tried to get as much information I could but was unsure of a few things and just planned on figuring it out as I went. I thought I would add some information for fellow swappers that have a truck similar to mine.
My truck: 02 Silverado 1500 extended cab, 6.5 bed, 143.5 wheel base.
Cross member mid section was moved 6" even, toward the rear. There is some forgiveness here being that the rubber mount that's between the trans tail housing and crossmember can be turned around which gives you about and 1" play. I used the 4L60e mount which works on the 4L80e. 6" is about the max. Somewhere between 5" and 6" should work. Also the stock crossmember is about 3.5" wide. If it was off you could just make the hole a little longer one way or the other.
The Tail shaft yoke I used is a slip yoke. I bolt on or fixed yoke is not needed being that the first half of the driveline is fixed in place due to the carrier baring being bolted to the frame. The slip yoke was pulled from a 4x4 2500. Id did come out of the transfer case but my guess is that gm uses the same yoke for 2wd or 4wd. The yoke splines was 6.75" deep.
The drive shaft was not shortened. Theres another slip yoke after the carrier baring which has a lot of room for error. If someone was overly concerned about the driveline pitch then I suppose someone could find out what the perfect pitch is. Since I did not shorten the rear drive shaft, the u joints end up with less angle. I did check to see how far the rear slip yoke could slide on then pulled it back into its resting place. Still plenty of room. I didn't take a measurement but if my rearend had that much movement to drive the yoke to the point of bottoming out then I've got bigger problems.
The return fluid line was cut and extended back 10.5". I believe the hard lines are 1/4". 3/8" rubber hose slides over for nice fitment.
The torque converter I used was aftermarket, so I just used the flex plate from the 4L60e. If your using the stock 4L80e converter then you'll need the flat flex plate with the spacer. I think it's a .400 spacer.
There was wiring mods at the trans harness and pcm. Lots of sites with very detailed instructions. I used LT1swap.com
Also there is a segment swap that will have to be performed.
My truck: 02 Silverado 1500 extended cab, 6.5 bed, 143.5 wheel base.
Cross member mid section was moved 6" even, toward the rear. There is some forgiveness here being that the rubber mount that's between the trans tail housing and crossmember can be turned around which gives you about and 1" play. I used the 4L60e mount which works on the 4L80e. 6" is about the max. Somewhere between 5" and 6" should work. Also the stock crossmember is about 3.5" wide. If it was off you could just make the hole a little longer one way or the other.
The Tail shaft yoke I used is a slip yoke. I bolt on or fixed yoke is not needed being that the first half of the driveline is fixed in place due to the carrier baring being bolted to the frame. The slip yoke was pulled from a 4x4 2500. Id did come out of the transfer case but my guess is that gm uses the same yoke for 2wd or 4wd. The yoke splines was 6.75" deep.
The drive shaft was not shortened. Theres another slip yoke after the carrier baring which has a lot of room for error. If someone was overly concerned about the driveline pitch then I suppose someone could find out what the perfect pitch is. Since I did not shorten the rear drive shaft, the u joints end up with less angle. I did check to see how far the rear slip yoke could slide on then pulled it back into its resting place. Still plenty of room. I didn't take a measurement but if my rearend had that much movement to drive the yoke to the point of bottoming out then I've got bigger problems.
The return fluid line was cut and extended back 10.5". I believe the hard lines are 1/4". 3/8" rubber hose slides over for nice fitment.
The torque converter I used was aftermarket, so I just used the flex plate from the 4L60e. If your using the stock 4L80e converter then you'll need the flat flex plate with the spacer. I think it's a .400 spacer.
There was wiring mods at the trans harness and pcm. Lots of sites with very detailed instructions. I used LT1swap.com
Also there is a segment swap that will have to be performed.
#3
TECH Resident
Is your truck a 2wd? On my 99 ecsb 2wd 4L80e swap I just slid the short driveshaft back a little by sliding the center carrier bearing; the mount above has slots and allows for movement. I used a yoke from Denny's Driveshaft and didn't require any driveshaft shortening. I can post the part number and some pictures if you'd like.
#4
Teching In
It's standard procedure to insert your yoke all the way in until it bottoms out, then slide it back 3/4" to locate it in the right spot.
Is your truck a 2wd? On my 99 ecsb 2wd 4L80e swap I just slid the short driveshaft back a little by sliding the center carrier bearing; the mount above has slots and allows for movement. I used a yoke from Denny's Driveshaft and didn't require any driveshaft shortening. I can post the part number and some pictures if you'd like.
Is your truck a 2wd? On my 99 ecsb 2wd 4L80e swap I just slid the short driveshaft back a little by sliding the center carrier bearing; the mount above has slots and allows for movement. I used a yoke from Denny's Driveshaft and didn't require any driveshaft shortening. I can post the part number and some pictures if you'd like.
#5
TECH Resident
Yeah it’s 2wd. I was looking at the dennys yoke’s myself earlier today. Just honestly not sure if I’ll even need one. Haven’t heard of any reason the fixed yoke won’t work with the 2 piece having that slip in it already. I’m definitely welcome to any input on my logic being incorrect though just completely unsure honestly. I am glad I won’t have to shorten my shaft up though saves me time waiting on a driveshaft shop.
Probably a good time to replace the center carrier bearing. Mine was pretty worn out with 260k.
#6
Teching In
Denny's Driveshaft 2060989 is the yoke I used. It's machined to allow you to use a standard u joint replacement. I used a Precision U Joint 534G from O'Reilly's IIRC. I suppose you could use the bolt on yoke, but you will need a conversion U joint.
Probably a good time to replace the center carrier bearing. Mine was pretty worn out with 260k.
Probably a good time to replace the center carrier bearing. Mine was pretty worn out with 260k.
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