Whick stock based engine combo is best?
#1
My original plan was to get a used 5.3l engine and build it to a 5.7l to take advantage of the larger after market for pistons,rods etc.
I'm not so sure this is the best route now.
After thinking it over a little I am still undecided on whether to proceed with that plan or go with a 6.0l engine and just do forged pistons for it.
Which plan would be more cost effective and what could I live with after all is said and done. What is out there for the 6.0l truck engines??
I know a stock low compression 6.0l engine will handle the boost better than the 5.3l from what I have seen here but for how long??? I don't even want to chance smoking it.
Would a used 6.0l engine with forged pistons(stock compression), better valve springs, and push rods, along with good quality con-rod bolts, and main cap bolts do the trick??
With the added torque the 6.0l would offer over a 5.3l or even the 5.7l I planned on doing, could I run 5psi low boost and 8-9 psi on high boost with the option to go up to 10-11 psi here and there on a track day reliably??
Will I need bigger injectors that I currently have?
Which parts are interchangeable with my 5.3l if I end up just getting a long block assembly?
Would switching to the better oil gallery set-up do away with oil blow by issues? I don't know much about that set-up
I also plan on HP of EF-Live once I get the new engine rolling.
My objective is still the same as when I started down this road,
550-600 Flywheel HP
Mid 12-low 13 seconds with two boost levels.
Reliable everyday truck that still gets OK mileage, 13-16mpg
My drive train will have to remain as is for a while, I am more worried about the engine at this point. My current engine still runs ok, just blows oil all over it's self when in boost.
Buying an engine and building it up to be reliable would let me have as little down time as possible, that is why I don't want to just tear into my current engine.
I really need some solid advise from those in the know before I blow the cash on totally wrong set up.
I know this has been hashed out multiple times on the board but I will end up searching through and reading hundreds of posts for all the answers, All advise is appreciated!
Many boosted people here have upgraded to the 6.0l engines but have had some problems along the way, I would like to avoid the major ones if possible.
Thanks guys.
I'm not so sure this is the best route now.
After thinking it over a little I am still undecided on whether to proceed with that plan or go with a 6.0l engine and just do forged pistons for it.
Which plan would be more cost effective and what could I live with after all is said and done. What is out there for the 6.0l truck engines??
I know a stock low compression 6.0l engine will handle the boost better than the 5.3l from what I have seen here but for how long??? I don't even want to chance smoking it.
Would a used 6.0l engine with forged pistons(stock compression), better valve springs, and push rods, along with good quality con-rod bolts, and main cap bolts do the trick??
With the added torque the 6.0l would offer over a 5.3l or even the 5.7l I planned on doing, could I run 5psi low boost and 8-9 psi on high boost with the option to go up to 10-11 psi here and there on a track day reliably??
Will I need bigger injectors that I currently have?
Which parts are interchangeable with my 5.3l if I end up just getting a long block assembly?
Would switching to the better oil gallery set-up do away with oil blow by issues? I don't know much about that set-up
I also plan on HP of EF-Live once I get the new engine rolling.
My objective is still the same as when I started down this road,
550-600 Flywheel HP
Mid 12-low 13 seconds with two boost levels.
Reliable everyday truck that still gets OK mileage, 13-16mpg
My drive train will have to remain as is for a while, I am more worried about the engine at this point. My current engine still runs ok, just blows oil all over it's self when in boost.
Buying an engine and building it up to be reliable would let me have as little down time as possible, that is why I don't want to just tear into my current engine.
I really need some solid advise from those in the know before I blow the cash on totally wrong set up.
I know this has been hashed out multiple times on the board but I will end up searching through and reading hundreds of posts for all the answers, All advise is appreciated!
Many boosted people here have upgraded to the 6.0l engines but have had some problems along the way, I would like to avoid the major ones if possible.
Thanks guys.
#3
I have researched this topic to death. If you stay with those goals...you only need a used lq4. I think the problem will come when your hitting 13.05 ets and you crank it up to hit that next mark. Keep your tune 11.2 to 1 under boost, keep your iat under 130, keep your timing under 18, and keep the boost in the single digits and it should live a long time. I know my figures sound conservative, but when you need to drive it to work at 5 the next morning...losing the the race and living to fight another day is key. Please to an injector balance test before using those same injectors. You don't want to blow a new one cause of partially clogged injectors. I looked on car-part .com and found my complete lq4 for 1300.00. Good luck
#5
Okay, I will start dispensing advice as I usually do...
First, what's your budget? You can go low budget, or spend more and get greater reliability. That being said, making something bulletproof will cost major cash.
Second, what is your pain threshold? Is this your daily driver? Can you deal with the possibility that stuff will break and you will have to fix it?
I'm reviewing your mod list... The trans is going to be a bone of contention. 4L60E transmissions hate three things: Torque, weight, and heat. Hopefully you've already got a kick-*** transcooler and a gauge to watch the temp.
Would a bone stock 6.0 work for you? Most likely, for what you are looking for? Yes. You would see in the high 400 to low 500 range on a chassis dyno. The 5.7 is aluminum, as where the 6.0 is cast iron. While the 5.7 is strong, it's not as strong as the iron block. Anyone that tells you different needs to take a materials engineering course. The 6.0 has many parts, like the 5.7. Parts are totally interchangable between all LS based engines, from the 4.8 to the 6.2 in the new Escalade.
You'll need bigger injectors (I'd consider some 60#ers), meth injection will help keep you safe. A stock engine will hold up, building it up you'd want new pistons and perhaps rods, you would need machine work and balancing and depending on whether or not you can assemble it yourself (Richard @ WCCH seems to be very popular and turns out some awesome things from what I've read).
Check your wallet first. See what you have available, and what you are willing to part with.
And one more thing: Planning, planning, planning. And stick with it. Any deviation will cause you to spend more cash and time.
Just some thoughts for you...
First, what's your budget? You can go low budget, or spend more and get greater reliability. That being said, making something bulletproof will cost major cash.
Second, what is your pain threshold? Is this your daily driver? Can you deal with the possibility that stuff will break and you will have to fix it?
I'm reviewing your mod list... The trans is going to be a bone of contention. 4L60E transmissions hate three things: Torque, weight, and heat. Hopefully you've already got a kick-*** transcooler and a gauge to watch the temp.
Would a bone stock 6.0 work for you? Most likely, for what you are looking for? Yes. You would see in the high 400 to low 500 range on a chassis dyno. The 5.7 is aluminum, as where the 6.0 is cast iron. While the 5.7 is strong, it's not as strong as the iron block. Anyone that tells you different needs to take a materials engineering course. The 6.0 has many parts, like the 5.7. Parts are totally interchangable between all LS based engines, from the 4.8 to the 6.2 in the new Escalade.
You'll need bigger injectors (I'd consider some 60#ers), meth injection will help keep you safe. A stock engine will hold up, building it up you'd want new pistons and perhaps rods, you would need machine work and balancing and depending on whether or not you can assemble it yourself (Richard @ WCCH seems to be very popular and turns out some awesome things from what I've read).
Check your wallet first. See what you have available, and what you are willing to part with.
And one more thing: Planning, planning, planning. And stick with it. Any deviation will cause you to spend more cash and time.

Just some thoughts for you...
#6
Avsfan, my engine has issues. Still runs but I have probably cracked a ring land or just have signifigant blow by, enought to cause crankcase presuure build up.
Chevy Thunder17, I have the money to do the build properly but don't want to just throw cash at this. I want to be smart and safe about what I end up with.
I have spent a lot of cash on this truck since installing the STS kit a while back, been over two years now and probably 7k in total cost with the kit, tune, various parts, Eaton rear end and tranny build after smoking my 3-4 clutches.
I know this is a lot of cash but hind sight is always 20/20.
My tune is rich as hell so I am not sure what really happened to my engine. I did have overboosting issues in winter when my wastegate froze up. I really took it easy on the engine during times of doubt but the few times I did have trouble were probably enough to damage things.
A few weeks back I got a leak down tester from my neighbor to use but his kit is missing some peices that I need to do the test so I'm just guessing on my current engine issues.
My first plan was to bore an iron block 5.3l to a 5.7l, never wanted an alumunum block to start with. The weight savings will not really do me that much good anyways.
I plan on putting my 2" rear lift blocks back in and leaving the suspenson stock with maybe the exception of some good quality shocks and maybe a rear sway bar and some poly bushing to help with body roll.
I do not use this truck a a daily driver anymore since I got a job with a company car last year but still need the truck for hauling **** and picking things up just about every weekend. I plan on using this truck as a truck mostly but want to be able to go on funrides when time eprmits withour worrying about issues.
I do know the drive train will ultimately have to be upgraded but I will not be hammering the **** out of it when I know the current trans won't hold up long doing that. The trans builder than did mine has a great rep up here and I have had zero issue since getting it done. Many 120mph plus runs, burn outs, doughnuts and various silly **** has not had any affect on it.
Still wondering what is out there for off the shelf parts for the 6.0l engines.
I'll start looking to the right at our site suppliers>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for the info so far.
Chevy Thunder17, I have the money to do the build properly but don't want to just throw cash at this. I want to be smart and safe about what I end up with.
I have spent a lot of cash on this truck since installing the STS kit a while back, been over two years now and probably 7k in total cost with the kit, tune, various parts, Eaton rear end and tranny build after smoking my 3-4 clutches.
I know this is a lot of cash but hind sight is always 20/20.
My tune is rich as hell so I am not sure what really happened to my engine. I did have overboosting issues in winter when my wastegate froze up. I really took it easy on the engine during times of doubt but the few times I did have trouble were probably enough to damage things.
A few weeks back I got a leak down tester from my neighbor to use but his kit is missing some peices that I need to do the test so I'm just guessing on my current engine issues.
My first plan was to bore an iron block 5.3l to a 5.7l, never wanted an alumunum block to start with. The weight savings will not really do me that much good anyways.
I plan on putting my 2" rear lift blocks back in and leaving the suspenson stock with maybe the exception of some good quality shocks and maybe a rear sway bar and some poly bushing to help with body roll.
I do not use this truck a a daily driver anymore since I got a job with a company car last year but still need the truck for hauling **** and picking things up just about every weekend. I plan on using this truck as a truck mostly but want to be able to go on funrides when time eprmits withour worrying about issues.
I do know the drive train will ultimately have to be upgraded but I will not be hammering the **** out of it when I know the current trans won't hold up long doing that. The trans builder than did mine has a great rep up here and I have had zero issue since getting it done. Many 120mph plus runs, burn outs, doughnuts and various silly **** has not had any affect on it.
Still wondering what is out there for off the shelf parts for the 6.0l engines.
I'll start looking to the right at our site suppliers>>>>>>>>>>>
Thanks for the info so far.
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#8
Well, rich is better than lean when talking turbocharging. I don't think you cracked a ring land as the engine is still running, although the rings might be gone. Thunder Racing carries Mahle pistons for a good price. I actually have a set of dished 3.905 pistons that I'll be putting up for sale soon. Weight savings is a moot point in a 5000 lb vehicle, never understood the mentality. I would do it for the ease of acquiring more displacement, but that's about it.
You can get a 5.7 or a 6.0, you can get the same off the shelf stuff for them both, especially since the introduction of the Gen IV engines. The iron and aluminum block parts swap around.
What would be your engine budget, and what parts do you have right now?
You can get a 5.7 or a 6.0, you can get the same off the shelf stuff for them both, especially since the introduction of the Gen IV engines. The iron and aluminum block parts swap around.
What would be your engine budget, and what parts do you have right now?
#9
Originally Posted by ChevyThunder17
Well, rich is better than lean when talking turbocharging. I don't think you cracked a ring land as the engine is still running, although the rings might be gone. Thunder Racing carries Mahle pistons for a good price. I actually have a set of dished 3.905 pistons that I'll be putting up for sale soon. Weight savings is a moot point in a 5000 lb vehicle, never understood the mentality. I would do it for the ease of acquiring more displacement, but that's about it.
You can get a 5.7 or a 6.0, you can get the same off the shelf stuff for them both, especially since the introduction of the Gen IV engines. The iron and aluminum block parts swap around.
What would be your engine budget, and what parts do you have right now?
You can get a 5.7 or a 6.0, you can get the same off the shelf stuff for them both, especially since the introduction of the Gen IV engines. The iron and aluminum block parts swap around.
What would be your engine budget, and what parts do you have right now?
I have no parts right now, just getting all my ducks in a row before the carnage begins on my savings account.
I do have an air-air intercooler I bought from Turbobeserker a while back that will be installed.
If I do go 5.7l it will be boring an iron 5.3l out to get it there.
I want a bullet proof budget build that will be a great daily driver if needed and take some good abuse here and there.
How much power would a 6.0l make with stock compression forged pistons on say 5-8 psi safely tuned with meth added for some additional timing and safety?
The thing is about weight savings it's kind of useless for me. If I take off my trailer hitch, spare tire, lift block, skidplates etc, etc, it's not really a truck to me anymore. A SCSB 4x4 is nevr going to be light, if I wantec light I would have got a SCSB 2wd to start with, even then they are light for a truck, bot not light.
#10
Originally Posted by TG02Z71
I want a bullet proof budget build that will be a great daily driver if needed and take some good abuse here and there.
How much power would a 6.0l make with stock compression forged pistons on say 5-8 psi safely tuned with meth added for some additional timing and safety?
How much power would a 6.0l make with stock compression forged pistons on say 5-8 psi safely tuned with meth added for some additional timing and safety?


