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Well that was short lived :( help

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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 09:06 AM
  #11  
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Who tuned it?
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 09:06 AM
  #12  
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The good part is motors are cheap. Just need to change the tune accordingly. Don't worry its fixable but just don't sink a **** ton of money into it and have it go down again after spending 20k on mods like I did. Back off a bit so you don't get frustrated and want to dump it. Round two coming up.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 09:47 AM
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may sound crazy but i know if cylinder doesnot fire and get a lot gas .it lift the rings (some people call it wash them out ). then compression (boost) gets pass piston in to the oil and back into cylinder and compression then finds the easiest way out seals or headgasket .example its like dropping a brick in to a 5 gallon bucket of water the splash
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by ak2007r6
Pull plugs and see how the gaps look. Check rear main seal, that's where I was leaking when I broke.

This is the reason I am getting out of modding a brand new truck. Hurts even more when they break.
You putting your truck back to stock?
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevy_King1500
You putting your truck back to stock?
Ya that's the plan for the most part. Only thing that won't be stock are the pistons, they will still be forged. Will sell it, get a decent check since I owe less than it's worth (in stock form) and will pick up an early to mid 2000 RCSB (pay cash) and go nuts with a new project.

Trying to make a 5600 pound 4 door truck fast is expensive, especially when you keep breaking ****. Add on a healthy monthly payment and it just hurts...I hate having it broken in a shop, not driving it and paying a monthly payment.



Plan from here on out is to do all my own work. I am no pro mechanic but know my way around the garage pretty well. What I don't know I can learn and read up on.


Roger is always helping me out and cutting amazing deals but labor isn't cheap He will always be my parts/performance guy though. Still gotta support local business
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 02:05 PM
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Thanks for the responses guys.

It was tuned at horsepower solutions and it made 425rwhp and 485 rwftlbs. 10psi. 91 octane. 72lb injectors.

Tuner said we were still on the safe side of the tune.

Im gonna do a leakdown test this week.

Im hoping its the head gasket.

If I blew past the piston ring and damaged the bottom end...I would like to explore my options for a new shortblock or the cheap option. Buy a uses 5.3 and put it in.

Can I use any gen 4 vortec shortblock? Even though my truck is a flexfuel dod vvt motor?


Just looking for some info on what I can and cant replace the bottom end with.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by roland1
Thanks for the responses guys.

It was tuned at horsepower solutions and it made 425rwhp and 485 rwftlbs. 10psi. 91 octane. 72lb injectors.

Tuner said we were still on the safe side of the tune.

Im gonna do a leakdown test this week.

Im hoping its the head gasket.

If I blew past the piston ring and damaged the bottom end...I would like to explore my options for a new shortblock or the cheap option. Buy a uses 5.3 and put it in.

Can I use any gen 4 vortec shortblock? Even though my truck is a flexfuel dod vvt motor?


Just looking for some info on what I can and cant replace the bottom end with.
I found an 06' 5.3 locally for $500 bucks.

Will this work?
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 04:18 PM
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No it won't work it's not a direct swap anyway
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 07:12 PM
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Do you have any gauges? I would at least get a wideband and boost gauge...And start saving for tuning software. IMHO if your going to run 10psi and 91 octane daily you need to know how to tune and at the very least scan so you know whats up with advance, knock retard and afr.
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 10:24 PM
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Originally Posted by LsF-150
Do you have any gauges? I would at least get a wideband and boost gauge...And start saving for tuning software. IMHO if your going to run 10psi and 91 octane daily you need to know how to tune and at the very least scan so you know whats up with advance, knock retard and afr.
I have a plx muti gauge so currently I can view one or the other, boost or afr.

at some point in time I will get into tuning but that's a whole nother can of worms.





I crawled under the truck tonight and it seems the oil is coming from the bellhousing/ converter cover.

so we can probably say the rear main seal is done.

I also pulled the rest of the plugs on the driver side cylinders...

1,3,5, plugs... tip looked clean. outside edges black. NO OIL ON THESE PLUGS.

but plug 7 is covered in oil.

the coolant doesn't look too bad. there seems to be tiny black specks in it. but it doesn't look shaded dark from oil.

and the dipstick smelled like oil. not coolant.

I still need to do a leak down test and im going straight to cylinder 7 first.

either blew a valve seal or a piston ring..... Right???


I am weighing my options for a shortblock. has to be 2007 and up right?

gen iv. right?
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