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Turbo 03' RCSB Build
***UPDATED Dec 31, 2018***
Figured I would start a build thread so I could share my plan and receive some advice and opinions on do's and don't do's as I go along to help me save some time and money. Here it goes... The base of the build is: 03' RCSB 2WD 5.3/4L60/Stock G80 optioned rear. This thing is ultra stock. I mean so stock, the only addition the previous owner(s) made was a trailer brake controller. I'll post pics of it before, and during the transformation. I have seen a fellow members build that I will probably replicate to some extent as I go (zblee Project Silver Bullet). No need to re-invent the wheel, just going to use different polish. Something to note is this truck will need to be Daily Capable and would love to clock off a 10.9X at a weekend track. Driven there and driven home type of thing. Engine: Stock heads ARP Head Studs LS9 head gaskets BTR .660" Dual Springs with steel retainers Stock Rockers with trunion upgrade LJMS 4.8 Stage II turbo cam 218/223 .598"/.571" 112+3 BTR Chromoly Pushrods 5/16"x7.400 LS7 lifters Stock timing set Meiling Oil pump (High Pressure Standard Volume) Stock Intake Billet Rails NGK -8 plugs MSD Wire EFISource 3 bar MAP sensor Fuel: (Gas/E85) FIC 1000cc (95lb) Injectors Twin Walbro 450LPH pumps (1 pump activated off Hobbs switch) Base pressure set at 43.5psi -8AN Feed/Stock feed as return Flex fuel sensor conversion Magnafuel regulator with Boost reference Turbo kit: Trick Turbo stage 3 complete kit with the 78/75 billet turbo Transmission: (currently still using the 4L60E,buying time until I can install the 80E) 4L80E - Basic rebuild with shift kit Cirlce D 278mm Driveshaft: Stock with Strange Billet Yoke (I'll get new U-joints. 1350 if they fit.) Rear:(Still on stock unit. Waiting to install as well) Eaton TrueTrac Master bearing kit Stock Axles 3.73 gear |
The connecting rods will limit your horsepower. A 2003 will have the smaller "I" beam style rods that generally are good for 550whp before you start to worry about bending a rod. The stronger H beam rods will support like twice the power.
Your cam choice sounds like a decent option, would work pretty well. Stock intakes work awesome, keep it simple. I don't know your power goals so fuel rails and feed line size is up in the air. Stock stuff will support a decent amount of power but if you really plan on E85, you should upgrade while you are there. Go with 58psi of fuel pressure, keep it like factory. Get a built driveshaft for sure. Wouldn't even consider the stock unit, they are way too thin and a lot of power will just make it go boom. They also aren't rated for really high speeds. Get a built 3in THICK walled driveshaft so you never have to think about it again. |
Originally Posted by FFDP
(Post 5432980)
The connecting rods will limit your horsepower. A 2003 will have the smaller "I" beam style rods that generally are good for 550whp before you start to worry about bending a rod. The stronger H beam rods will support like twice the power.
Just an FYI, this engine has been there for me before. It's a pullout from my racecar. Best pass is 5.79@121mph in the 1/8th on a 1.39 60ft at 3580rw with DA well into the 3000's on 17(ish)psi. Made 800rwhp through a TH400/9" combo on 14psi. This is the reason I am using this motor. I know it can handle the abuse I'm about to put it through. That T4 76/75 is going to be a lot easier on it than the Forced inductions S485 Billet with V2 race cover was. Your cam choice sounds like a decent option, would work pretty well. Stock intakes work awesome, keep it simple. I don't know your power goals so fuel rails and feed line size is up in the air. Stock stuff will support a decent amount of power but if you really plan on E85, you should upgrade while you are there. Go with 58psi of fuel pressure, keep it like factory. If I upgrade rails, I'm just going to do intake as well. I might go the Edelbrock Pro-Flo route. I have the -8 braided line already so it wouldn't be anything to upgrade. I've just seen folks do well on the stock truck rails. Base pressure concerns are 43.5psi allows me to get more out of my pumps. Because 58psi boost referenced @15psi is like 73psi rail pressure. Pump flow falls off drastically at this rate. 58psi allows more out of the injectors for IDC's. Get a built driveshaft for sure. Wouldn't even consider the stock unit, they are way too thin and a lot of power will just make it go boom. They also aren't rated for really high speeds. Get a built 3in THICK walled driveshaft so you never have to think about it again. Thanks for the heads up, race car has a Aluminum 3" or 4" PST driveshaft rated for a lot. Might just see if I can make it work. Slip Yoke and 1350 joints all around. |
If you're going to change the oil pump, get the Katech blueprinted pump.
I went with the ZR1 MAP sensor myself. Denny's makes a great driveshaft. Flex fuel tuning can be a little tricky in the P59 trucks. It's doable, just make sure you have a good tuner. |
I already have the oil pump and map sensor. I’m literally taking the engine out of my race car. I’ll be doing my own tuning. Thanks for the driveshaft plug. I’ll check them out. Trying to keep as close to a budget as I can. |
***Picture upload in progress. I don't know of a quicker way to take them from my iPhone, to my Laptop, to here.***
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...6ffeb5e77e.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...49a9c2b0b6.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...a49f62b78d.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.per...fb7750e38d.jpg Progress is underway.I was so busy I couldn't really update as I went along, but I will try and get this thread caught up. So I attacked this progress by first installing the 1320Wheels RaceStar Drag Pack. Front: 17x7/ Rear: 15x10 and wrapped them in Front: Nitto 555R G2 275/50ZR17 / Rear: Mickey Thompson ET Street R 325/50R15. Had to convert the rear brakes to a smaller diameter. They provide the Part #'s for calipers, rotors, and pad. You utilize the supplied bracket for the new calipers in the kit from 1320. You have to remove the axles to do this. It'snot a bad job. I also bought some lug nuts. Then I removed the old clutch fan and installed the dual fan setup and wired them and tuned them into the PCM, as well as wired up the gauges and shoved them into the Triple Gauge Pod Pillar from GlowShift. I'm running their Trans Temp and Boost gauge, and then for Air/Fuel I have the AEM Gen X 30-0300 wideband. Next was the fuel system. I utilized the unbolt the bed, disconnect the harness and filler neck method. Moved it back and let it rest on the frame rail and rear tires.The bucket was a tight fit, I modified it until clearance was good for both pumps to set nice an easy with a slight stagger. Then made a flow path for the two pumps using some Home Depot hardware and wired in the dual relay pump harness with a kit I purchased from HighFlowFuels. Tuned for the FPR being Boost Referenced. I left the regulator set at 58psi. Before I tackled the turbo kit / cam swap install, I cleaned and setup an extra set of heads I had laying around that way I could just swap on a the nice clean heads with springs and new seals instead of taking the time to do it with the heads I pulled off the truck. I was trying to minimize down time by doing it this way. They turned out really nice for a quick clean up job. Then it was time for the full blown assault on the engine portion of this build. The TrickTurbo Stage 3 kit was well worth the money.It's apparent that time was taken to get a solid product with ease of installation being a top priority. The only recommendations I would have for a new consumer is (and this was just from my particular build, all builds are different.) the intercooler self tapping screws could be a little longer. I ended up buying some new longer ones. Also the AC lines were a trouble to bend for me, I'd take your time and think about a couple different moves before you bend it for that final location bend. I tried to bend mine one too many times in different directions (not taking my time) and caused a little leak. I'll get that fixed closer to summer. In Washington the weather is cold and rainy more than anything, so cold air is not of any concern at the moment. Heat works great though! I left the AC belt off so I'm not spinning the compressor at all with that leak. I also went ahead and removed the oil pan so I could fit the turbo drain and oil feed in there while ensuring no metal shavings were going to be left behind. It was also required for the location so I could be happy with the direction and flow path of the drain line. Now one other thing that I did differently that I knew was going to give me a hard time was I used an "eBay special" polished driver side manifold. (1 5/8" Primaries) Turns out the flange was indexed differently than the stock manifold the kit was intended for. So I modified it. Other than that it was the normal cam, head and intake swap labor. I pulled the intake to install the new IAT sensor into the intake and get the factory MAP sensor location tapped and setup for a barb fitting. I'll be honest I'm not happy with this barb fitting or it's location. The barb sits too tall so I cannot install the factory engine cover at the moment or am I even utilizing it. I capped it off and ran the BOV / MAP sensor / Boost gauge off of the supplied TrickTurbo vacuum block. I also got everything back together and the factory TPS sensor failed on me. It gave me a hell of a time for tuning and drive-ability. When you install a turbo, "Reduced Engine Power" is the last thing you wanted . Eventually a couple hours of my time with diagnosing the root I got it all tuned and it runs great!! Since I'm on the stock 60E and G80 rear diff I'm keeping it at 10psi. Lol It literally just blows the tires right off. I'm sure this weather and the choice of rear tire doesn't help much. It still is fun as hell to drive. Super happy!! |
Where abouts in WA? I'm over in Spokane my self, doing a build off with a buddy in some single shorts as well. 6.0/80e shooting for as much whp and best 1/4mi time for us.
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update on this build?
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