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Thats one of the souces I used. Should be able to go 3.9. Also a thread that SDPC said you can go 3.8 on an lc9 block. I will just go with what the machine shop is comfortable doing.
Machine shop called today and said there is no way you can bore out the aluminum lc9 block to 3.898. There is alot of conflicting info out there about it. he said my only option is to go with an iron block and will need to relocate the knock sensor. Also said the custom pistons I orderd from stock48 dont make any sense since they will require an extra thick head gasket to work. This performance stuff gives me a headache.
Any reason not to swap to an iron block? Anything else I need to know before giving him the go ahead? He has one that he will trade me straight across for after he tears it down to make sure its usable.
That's the problem with a lot of machine shops these days. They still don't understand the LS engines very well. I would trust stock48 much more then I would any local machine shop over what will work for your motor. Run the head gaskets he suggested with the heads and pistons you're running. I guaranty he knows more about building a LS motor then your machine shop does. There are several places that sell LC9 based 346 motors.
I have had the driveline clunk for a while but its starting to get pretty noticeable. I am wondering if there is a good upgraded driveline I can get to solve the problem? I figure the factory one was not intended for boost so should probably be upgraded anyway. Any recommendations on drivelines and yoke?
Last edited by crashmymax; 04-08-2017 at 08:48 PM.
Sent the machine shop some link's on boring the lc9 to 3.898 and he replied that he will bore my block. He did some research and contacted some ls experts and he is going to do it. I am glad I shipped my block to these guys. No way any of my local shops would have taken the time to do research.
got rid of my coolant reservoir to get a little extra space. Worked out nice I have enough room now to change the waste gate spring with it on the truck. Got some cleaning up to do but it works for now.
is this on a nnbs? I'm trying to do the same thing on my nnbs to make more room for my turbo build. Im not sure if I need a overflow or expansion tank, do i need a inline fill cap, & how do i route it all? This is my current oem setup. Goes from top right of radiator to top of oem expansion tank & bottom of expansion tank T's into the heater hoses by the water pump.
Some guys turn that tank or install a vette tank or do a puke tank.
It really not needed to do change with our kits. But some do to gain more clearance and access gate easier.
The puke tank type will not pull water back into the system if it does puke some out.
So you will need to check to see what's going on.
Expansion tanks allow you to see levels plus adds a little more volume. And in the event you do over heat and loose some fluid out. You will be able to see what's in the tank. Low level light etc.
This is a nnbs. You can use an expansion or recirculating tank. You need to put the fill cap in the top radiator hose like the pic shows. Plug the small line going to the stock tank at the radiator. Cant remember how i got rid of the large line but it needs to be plugged. Then run a line from your filler cap to your new expantion tank. The tank you choose will have directions on how to set it up.
Also I think atomic makes a custom tank for nnbs now.
Time to change things up a little. Had Rick at trick performance make me some stuff. Really excited to see how the ic and piping is going to look when installed. My goal is to keep everything under the hood clean and hopefully when you open the hood the turbos will stand out like a sore thumb.
I've been very happy with the quality of the single kit from trick performance so I'm going continue on with them and see how this twin setup comes together.
03-31-2017, 10:02 PM
