ProCharger guys...anyone ever have issues with stock crank?
02-25-2013, 01:42 PM
#11
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I have a bent 4" callies compstar crank that wasent even over 530 miles new , all mains looked like yours and oil pressure droped emeditly after the first WOT
02-25-2013, 09:34 PM
#14
How is that you have over 2000 miles on it and it finally takes a **** when you go to the tuner and he flogs it on the dyno. A bad tune will destroy even the best part's.
Maybe your initial tune wasn't spot in when you drove it 2000 miles.
When EVILGMC bent the crank, I believe he only had a maggie 1900 at around 10Lbs. That same motor was rebuilt with another Stock Crank, He also changed to a larger Maggie 2300 and 15 LBS which was re-tuned by Left Coast32. He put a few pass on it and drove it on the street. It put down 600 HP at the wheels and last I heard was still running strong with the new owner.
Look at Stock48's factory stock bottom end 6.0L . He put 25 LBS through a complete bone stock bottom end and it still running strong. Hasn't lifted a gasket or had any other issues with it.
Sorry to point the finger in that direction but I think in your case with the damage your seeing It's all related.
The type of stall or the stall range will not take your bearings out like that. If there was any issue with the stall or trans it would push on the thrust side of the bearings.
As far as assembly goes I am just curious what the did were it says machined caps??? Did they line hone it??? It's possible there were some small things that were over looked on assembly but I still think it was tune related in your case.
Maybe your initial tune wasn't spot in when you drove it 2000 miles.
When EVILGMC bent the crank, I believe he only had a maggie 1900 at around 10Lbs. That same motor was rebuilt with another Stock Crank, He also changed to a larger Maggie 2300 and 15 LBS which was re-tuned by Left Coast32. He put a few pass on it and drove it on the street. It put down 600 HP at the wheels and last I heard was still running strong with the new owner.
Look at Stock48's factory stock bottom end 6.0L . He put 25 LBS through a complete bone stock bottom end and it still running strong. Hasn't lifted a gasket or had any other issues with it.
Sorry to point the finger in that direction but I think in your case with the damage your seeing It's all related.
The type of stall or the stall range will not take your bearings out like that. If there was any issue with the stall or trans it would push on the thrust side of the bearings.
As far as assembly goes I am just curious what the did were it says machined caps??? Did they line hone it??? It's possible there were some small things that were over looked on assembly but I still think it was tune related in your case.
02-27-2013, 11:08 PM
#16
I also went trough this 3 times on my forged 6.0...first time they built it it ran only for 500 miles then pressure started dropping more and more, opened oil filter and also found all copper with oil mixture and also the same copper debree inside oil pan. Took it back to shop and rebuilt it, then second time went out at 3,000 miles. pff, and to drive back 6 hours again to that supposedly well recognized racing engine shop?? didn't think so, after all the guy wouldn't answer my emails or phone calls. So took it again to another guy locally around my hometown who is the only one trusted for race engine builds, again went out at 3,500 miles 
....so now my 6.0 short block is just sittin in my garage ilke a 
and decided to just strap on stock engines and gotta say I'm gavin more fun with em than a forged crap.
....so now my 6.0 short block is just sittin in my garage ilke a and decided to just strap on stock engines and gotta say I'm gavin more fun with em than a forged crap.
02-28-2013, 08:53 AM
#17
I don't remember seeing any noted on the invoice...
and I got 60k+ miles out of my last build by the same machine shop.
I never had any short block issues...the tired valve springs just finally started taking a dump which was caught in time and resulted in this current upgraded build.
and I got 60k+ miles out of my last build by the same machine shop.
I never had any short block issues...the tired valve springs just finally started taking a dump which was caught in time and resulted in this current upgraded build.
02-28-2013, 06:16 PM
#18
I also went trough this 3 times on my forged 6.0...first time they built it it ran only for 500 miles then pressure started dropping more and more, opened oil filter and also found all copper with oil mixture and also the same copper debree inside oil pan. Took it back to shop and rebuilt it, then second time went out at 3,000 miles. pff, and to drive back 6 hours again to that supposedly well recognized racing engine shop?? didn't think so, after all the guy wouldn't answer my emails or phone calls. So took it again to another guy locally around my hometown who is the only one trusted for race engine builds, again went out at 3,500 miles ....so now my 6.0 short block is just sittin in my garage ilke a and decided to just strap on stock engines and gotta say I'm gavin more fun with em than a forged crap.
....so now my 6.0 short block is just sittin in my garage ilke a and decided to just strap on stock engines and gotta say I'm gavin more fun with em than a forged crap.
03-01-2013, 05:51 PM
#19
03-05-2013, 02:22 PM
#20
Originally Posted by kp
If the upper rod bearings and pistons look OK most likely the main cap line bore was off or something silly like the main caps got mixed up. It will take 10 seconds to check and see of the crank is bent once its apart.
All you can do now is take it apart, measure everything to see what happened and try again..
I really doubt you bent the crank, but it may have been bent when it was put in.
All you can do now is take it apart, measure everything to see what happened and try again..
I really doubt you bent the crank, but it may have been bent when it was put in.
guess we'll see what may have happened when we get it apart.