Mounted new Vent Can for Turbo setup...
 

... this outta do for now. The drivers side vavle cover and the LS6 valley cover will be routed to the catchcan thats hooked up to intake vacuum. Incidently I just drained my catch can for the first time... and I had probably 1 1/2 cups of oil in it.

Anyway, made a little bracket for the Moroso vent can and mounted it to the passengers side frame in front of the A/C compressor. Came out nice I thought. I mounted it low for a couple of reasons. One, I did not want the nasty vent smell coming into the cabin from the A/C. It should route underneath the engine at speed. 2nd, I did not want to mount the can anywhere near the turbo... and mounting it on the drivers side would have made the hose really long. I figure if/when I am ready for more boost I'll do the same thing to the drivers side cover. Here are a few pics... enjoy.

(edit) Oh ya, the billet aluminum fill cap was an ebay special I drilled and tapped (3/4 NPT) for the -12 hose. I thought it was better than drilling/tapping the plastic cap... and for $16 plus shipping it wasn't a bad deal at all.

Bill :cheers:

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/ventcan1.jpg

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/ventcan2.jpg

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...l/ventcan3.jpg

Nice install as usual, I plan on doing basically the same thing but welding a bung to my valley cover since Ill be running a vic jr and be able to clear a large fitting in the front.

You tied the hose off the ls6 valley cover into the nipple on the valve cover correct?

Thanks bro. Sounds like a great idea welding a bung on the valley cover. Right now my passenger cover and LS6 valley cover are tied into a common small vent breather. It was a temporary setup until I got the -12 stuff installed. I had planned on plugging the passenger cover port and then running the LS6 valley cover vent over to the drivers side valve cover, tie it in there, and then into the catch can that is hooked up to manifold vacuum. We'll see how that works :)

Bill :cheers:

You running a one check valve on the manifold vacuum line?

Yes, a Krank Vent check valve :)

looks good bro, what is the path again?

where is it hooked up to intake vacuum?

Here is a rough drawing of my setup. The vent can is not tied into intake vacuum.

Bill :)

http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...hVentSetup.jpg

Where did you get the fitting that screws into your oil fill hole, the one that the blue anodized fitting is screwed into? Custom or bought?
Nice work.

what are you using for the other valve on the passenger side cover? whats the extra valve coming fromt the side of the driver side valve covr?

Tim,
Are you referring to the aluminum oil fill cap? Thats an ebay special. Do a search for "LS1" on ebay and you'll see them.

Chase,
Are you referring to the port on the valve cover that used to go to the back of the throttlebody in stock form? If so, I capped that port off as the -12 line I have attached to the oil fill cap has plenty venting capability. I don't understand your second question. Are you referring to the Krank Vent check valve? Thats a one way check valve to prevent boost from entering the crank case.

Bill :)

What is the point of the whole setup if the vent can is free to allow pressurized crankcase fumes to vent into the atmosphere?

Found them on eBay, so you just drilled and tapped it then.
Thanks.

The point is to pull on the crankcase immediately after lifting and during normal driving conditions. My truck was tuned with this "vacuum leak" so, I am OK with that. The misty oil wipped up, along with the exhaust gas blowby, will then be sucked into the catch can... instead of continuing on out of the vent filter. Under normal driving conditions the engine still wips up oil mist and if the crankcase is vented it will foul the filter quicker and perhaps the foul smell will make it to the cabin. Thats the theory at least. My setup seems to be working very well. No oily smell in the truck after lift and the vent filter appears to be staying clean. I suppose if I didn't care about the smell I would vent both valve covers and remove the PCV system altogether like many have done...

Tim, yes, just drilled and tapped... with a 3/4 NPT. The tap requires a 59/64" drill bit. I used a 15/16" and it worked well. I do recommend using a drill press with a drill bit that big... to help keep the hole straight.

Bill :)

Thanks. I like your system, and I needed to fully understand its operation. I am planning changes to mine soon.

hey bill do you have a part number for that moroso can? how much was it if you dont mind me asking?

MOR-85465 - $76.95 + shipping :)

Bill :cheers:

well bill i just did the same exact thing , i have a moroso vent can coming off my oil cap to a braided hose. i did it with a different fitting though so it has a tighter 90 .i also found that my truck has a something in the way where your can is mounted so i mounted it on the outside of the frame, the tire almost rubs on it but just barely clears it. i am also running a pcv catch can on the pcv system ( two valve covers t'ed in to the can then out the can to the intake pre blower). hopefully this set up works good and doesent let me get any more oil in my intake.

is there any way this is hard on the engine or will it hurt horspower? weeing as how pretty much the pcv system is sucking through one valve cover sucking through the filter on the other cover. so its like it just sucking air through the system all of the time.

I can't see where it would hurt horsepower wise. I would recommend, however, that if you change around the PCV setup that your tuner is given a heads up. He may want to check to make sure everything is OK. Thats what I did... and all was good for me. Its just never hurts to be extra careful.
I am very happy with my setup. I tell ya... that Krank Vent (check valve) in line with my PCV catch can seems to really do wonders. Can anybody else hold there thumb over a valve cover port and draw enough vacuum to make the main seals squeal? I don't know if its the cracking pressure / response of the Krank Vent or if its just a motor that was "built after 1st coffee break"... or my case after Siesta :D

Bill :)

I wanted to give you guys a quick update on my setup...

On around 6/27 I installed my bigger breather can setup and all was good. Keep in mind I had finished my tune. Over time I started feeling hesitation during normal driving conditions. Under wide open throttle all was good. It got so bad within the last week or 2 that I was popping P0171 and P0174 Lean codes... and if conditions were right it would send the PCM into Reduced Power mode. WTF??!! I thought maybe the O2's were going out... but they are switching just fine.
Well, I did some logging and emailed it to my tuner. He's like... WTF... "your trims are F'd... lean. What did you change he asked. ALL I did was add the vent can with the larger 3/4" ID hose from the oil fill cap. Before I had it rigged with a 3/8" setup. Well, I am running my catch can with a Krank Vent check valve. I am so proud that my motor sucks serious vacuum at idle. But I am not thinking about the consequences of how the larger vent can setup would affect the tune. So I started having all these tune drivability problems. I tell him what I've done and he's like... you can't screw with PCV and expect no issues. It wreaks havoc on the MAF table.

So, my suggestion is to you guys...

Don't fuck with ANYTHING after your tuner is done! PERIOD! If you start messing around with shit... you MUST let him know BEFORE you start wrenching... otherwsie your shit may not run right afterwards. NO CHANGE IS INNOCUOUS (harmless)! All I did was open up the crankcase breathing capability. What I did was increase an already tuned in vacuum LEAK.

My tuner told me to get rid of the catch can PCV setup and just run a crank case breather. Less headaches for both of us. I guess I am up for less headaches. And here I was thinking I could have a catch can to pull a vacuum after a boost condition to pull the gasses into the intake versus smelling them in the cabin. With my breather can located low on the frame and the PCV completely capped off I still did not smell crank case gasses after lift when my tuner was done fixing me up today.

I remember Slowhawk telling us that he pulls the PCV and doesn't screw with it anymore. I didn't look at it from a tuners perspective.... now I do. I am learning :)

Bill :cheers:

thats weird. good thing i will be SD soon.

Keep us posted bro... all we can do is learn from each other...

Bill :cheers:

Lol,I was about to say the vacuum is screwed now until I read the last post.I have customers do this all the time,when they come back and say my tuning is screwed I pull off all the breathers they added and say it's fixed now :nod:

For turbo cars I just run a big breather like that with 1 line from each valve cover going into it. If you don't like the fumes and want some vacuum under boost we use a catch can/seperator(big) and run a line to the turbo inlet piping.This will pull a vacuum under boost and help seal the rings.(If you run a filter which creates a slight restriction)

Ya, I'm gonna add another breather port to the driver side valve cover... now that PCV is removed. I'll tie both valve covers into the breather can. After driving around yesterday and this morning I am not getting any crank case smell after lift so the breather can placement on the frame seems to be working out good. Have you tried an exhaust pipe venturi for crank case evacuation?

Thanks,
Bill :)

I've tried probly everything out there and prefer the catch can with line running to the intake of the turbo the best. Of course most of our Turbo cars are tuned SD with no MAF.

That is a clean set-up. thanks for posting......

With the line running into the turbo inlet do you get any oil into the intake?
I know most oil is getting taken out through the catch can you spoke of but just wondering if any does end up in your intake.
Thanks.

You will get oil mist in the intake since it is fumes.Mount the catch can low like the one pictured and it should help.