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interchiller

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Old 06-12-2017, 04:24 PM
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the prices don't seem horrible to me if you can do the work yourself...active interchiller makes a kit for the Silverado.


13" Street Version $1099

13" Competition Version $1199

19” Competition Xtreme Chiller $1299

$35 Shipping


I figure I would be better off buying one of these kits than a cam/springs/pushrods to match a blower...and like I said...most people end up upgrading exchangers, intercoolers, adding spacers, adding pusher fans, meth, etc, etc...all that probably adds up to the cost of a interchiller kit that would make the stock components work just fine.
Old 06-12-2017, 07:55 PM
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I dont think that little 4rib belt would last very long being WOT and AC clutch engaged.
Old 06-12-2017, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by smokeshow
... You could create a pretty large liquid thermal heatsink with a few gallons of antifreeze...
Originally Posted by BlackGMC
I dont think that little 4rib belt would last very long being WOT and AC clutch engaged.
If you had a few gallons of antifreeze at 27 degrees (so the IC won't frost), the compressor definitely wouldn't need to be running during the short time that a drag race takes.
Old 06-12-2017, 09:34 PM
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Compressors shut off at wot.
Old 06-13-2017, 05:58 AM
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I think no one uses it because of the up front costs.
They did not offer a kit for the GM trucks for a very long time. Did a lot in the Ford world.

If ac compressor shuts off at wot, is there enough cold water reserve for a full blast how ever long that is? If you have the coin it's actually a sound plan for a street toy. Just needs to be hashed out.
Old 06-13-2017, 07:27 AM
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I think you guys are being very optimistic about how cold the coolant will get with the resovoir in the engine bay. In a trunk of a car, or covered in the bed yea it would probably get near freezing, but not in the engine bay where it has to deal with tons of radiant heat + the normal cooling load of the blower/engine.

These are really ideal for roll racing where you have time and lots of airflow between runs to build up a reserve of cold water.
Old 06-13-2017, 08:18 AM
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I know a simple one I built years ago.
Aluminum tank in the engine bay.
Only using low side line with hx in front
was able to get water to 60-70 degree water.
Remove hx water might have gotten cooler.
Using a plastic tank would absorb less engine heat.
if I'd of used hi side line with expansion valve water would have gotten colder.
Looking forward to seeing the end results.
Old 06-13-2017, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
I think you guys are being very optimistic about how cold the coolant will get with the resovoir in the engine bay. In a trunk of a car, or covered in the bed yea it would probably get near freezing, but not in the engine bay where it has to deal with tons of radiant heat + the normal cooling load of the blower/engine.

These are really ideal for roll racing where you have time and lots of airflow between runs to build up a reserve of cold water.
I think you'd be best equipped to punch out some numbers to see how effective it would be. Seems to me that its a question of effectiveness versus duty cycle. Intuition tells me at lower duty cycle, say 5% as in drag racing, this interchiller idea with a large reservoir would be far more effective than an ambient air heat exchanger. But at something like 50% duty cycle, the AC system wouldn't be able to extract enough heat from the reservoir to make it useful. How much heat transfer do you remember, Richard... lol
Old 06-13-2017, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by smokeshow
I think you'd be best equipped to punch out some numbers to see how effective it would be. Seems to me that its a question of effectiveness versus duty cycle. Intuition tells me at lower duty cycle, say 5% as in drag racing, this interchiller idea with a large reservoir would be far more effective than an ambient air heat exchanger. But at something like 50% duty cycle, the AC system wouldn't be able to extract enough heat from the reservoir to make it useful. How much heat transfer do you remember, Richard... lol
I had a feeling you were going to say that

I remember the gist of the science, but the hard part is guessing reasonably accurate values for things like convection coefficient for the condenser at various speeds/fan airflows, engine bay temp over time and speed, heat gained from the engine at an idle and cruise condition, heat transfer coefficients for the reservoir itself (lets call the high pressure and low pressure lines perfectly insulated to make that easy), compressor pump curve and real efficiency, engine air mass flow and temperature at various conditions. About the only easy thing is coolant system capacity.

Keep in mind that's for a static condition for a single time point. Doing a full dynamic analysis is a lot more work.

Easiest way is for one of you believers to buy it and stick a thermometer in the tank


I agree with your assessment that if you give it time to chill a water tank it would be better than an A2A cooler, but than again so is dumping in 5lb of ice before a run.
Old 06-13-2017, 11:04 AM
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I have to agree with Atomic on this. I don't think you're gonna see near the efficiency as you think and as cold of water. It's gonna be way more effective when driving then at the track. You need to be moving for the AC to really be effective other wise your just sitting there idling, heat soaking the blower, with e-fans blasting hot air over everything under the hood trying to cool just the water down in the intercooler. I don't think you'll see anything close to 32* water in those conditions.

I had the cooler that Trick built for a while on my KB blower and it really didn't do much for water temp. Might have brought them down 10-15* at most. But that blower made SOOOO much heat! Never liked that about it. GM KB's are just not a good blower imo. No where near what the Ford guys got out of them.

Last edited by kbracing96; 06-13-2017 at 11:31 AM.



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