Sandmanlsx

Looking for some advice. I'm getting a lot of different answers on this. My truck is an 04 silverado rcsb 5.3 and I have the 7875 on3 turbo kit ready to install. I plan on driving the truck everyday.
current mods:
btr stage 4 truck cam
circle d 3500 stall
Eaton tru track diff
1 7/8 long tubes to full 3" exhaust
ls6 valve springs
tuned on 93

My question is when I go to put my turbo kit on should I head stud it? And on3 said I can do the one bolt out and stud in method(studding the heads with removing the heads) I'm only wanting to make 500-600 hp to the wheels. I have a walbro 450 pump and 80lb decapped injectors also ready to go with the kit. Any advice you guys can give me on to stud it or not to? If I have to can I do it by not taking the heads off? Seems Sketchy to me.

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

Ummmm

I wouldnt worry about it. I made 477 with the "weak" rod bolts, and stock gaskets, 862s, TTY etc. Basically the worst of the worst 5.3 stuff right? Blower was on for ~10k mi that time. Came off for 2yrs, put a P1 back on it for ~5k mi including a trip to LS Fest West towing a car.

That motor has ~185k on it right now, only been opened up for cam swaps. Doesnt even have the notorious pre 03 piston rattle.

Personally, I would save the money and time and get a custom tune instead. I do agree that method is sketchy, but that is what I expect from ON3 honestly. If it can be done cheaper, by God they'll figure it out lol.

Sandmanlsx

Yeah I honestly didn't think studs would be necessary from the loads of research I've done. And yeah the "worst of the 5.3 stuff" seems to work good haha. Im going to send it. Im doing eveeything "right" besides studs. Ill be fine as long as i don't pour the boost to it I guess

arthursc2

iTrader: (5)

I ran 12lbs like I said, no problems. I dont think Ive ever even had lifter tick with this motor. If it ticks, I cant hear it above the exhaust anyway haha.

Burnett03

I would stud it, however lots of people have gotten by without. I put ls9 head gaskets and studded mine. 20psi so far with no issues. You can do them one by one if you want, that's how i did them on my 5.9 cummins. But IMO if you aren't changing the head gaskets don't bother studding it.

Sandmanlsx

I'm not studding it for now. But for future knowledge how did you do the studs one by one? Did you take them out randomly the put a stud in and tighten it fully then move to the next? Or did you take them out in reverse tourqe sequence then tighten them down in sequence?

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

Burnett03

You do them one at a time. Remove a bolt, but the stud in and torque it. Then move on to the next. The bad part of doing it this way is you run the risk of getting **** in the block holes and it's harder to chase the threads and get them cleaned out.

Sandmanlsx

Ok I'm running into another problem now...i think .... i have Brian tooleys stage 4 truck cam in my motor now with ls6 valve springs. I've been doing some research and guys that have stock cams with ls6 valve springs are floating valve springs when they run more than 10psi of boost. So what I'm thinking is my cam might be too much for boost with ls6 valve springs? Does anyone have any input or knowledge about my cam and valve springs with boost? Cam Specs are 224/230 .553/.547 111+2

Burnett03

I would have used some dual valve springs for safety, that's what I did on my build. I believe ls6 springs are good until around .550 I would get some dual springs.