It finally died, lm7 mp122 -11 psi
09-07-2018, 10:01 AM
#33
My LQ9/MP122HH blow torched #1 bunch of years ago. I've had it parked since 2011 (great mouse trap!), just built a new LQ9 small overbore and putting it all back slowly. It was always an IAT battle, so the plan is to keep boost ~9-10bps and get rid of meth, replace the true dual 3" out back with some dual side dumps and try to stay within the limits of a stout 10bolt (maybe impossible!).
Last edited by dhpro; 09-07-2018 at 10:12 AM.
09-07-2018, 10:30 AM
#34
My LQ9/MP122HH blow torched #1 bunch of years ago. I've had it parked since 2011 (great mouse trap!), just built a new LQ9 small overbore and putting it all back slowly. It was always an IAT battle, so the plan is to keep boost ~9-10bps and get rid of meth, replace the true dual 3" out back with some dual side dumps and try to stay within the limits of a stout 10bolt (maybe impossible!).
09-07-2018, 11:33 AM
#35
I used to have an M62 charged Saturn SC2 (bet you could guess that lol) It was non-intercooled, run ~13psi when it was cold. We saw IATs ~200-220F. Timing was in the single digits. That engine survived, I dunno 5-7k before the car was totaled. I never tore the motor down, but it did get sold off and now makes in the 400s on a turbo setup.
Point is, IATs arent the end all kill all. They help for sure tho, but too lean, too hot and too much timing will kill it. When IATs crossed ~180, we went from 11.8s to the 10.5s AFRs to help cool it down, and we pulled timing hard. I think that car was 18-22* until it got hot. Only took a couple pulls and then 3-4hrs to cool down.
I had plans for E85, but never got there. E would have helped a lot, and been worth a few degrees of timing, plus the cooling effect. Oh well, live and learn.
Point is, IATs arent the end all kill all. They help for sure tho, but too lean, too hot and too much timing will kill it. When IATs crossed ~180, we went from 11.8s to the 10.5s AFRs to help cool it down, and we pulled timing hard. I think that car was 18-22* until it got hot. Only took a couple pulls and then 3-4hrs to cool down.
I had plans for E85, but never got there. E would have helped a lot, and been worth a few degrees of timing, plus the cooling effect. Oh well, live and learn.
09-07-2018, 11:59 AM
#36
Mine was prob a fuel injector prob if I had to guess...temps well into 200's @ 15lbs boost. I had better success once I got underhood temps down frankly with an extractor hood. Either way, as described above, hi temps rob power but arent catastrophic all on their own. Its a gentle balance, and the ragged edge is always closer when temps are an issue. Meth is helpful, but I honestly wasnt knowledgable enough to use it to its potential and Eaton/Dupont really dont like what it does to the rotor coatings over time either. I've learned that cubes are the real answer, not boost and timing!
Last edited by dhpro; 09-07-2018 at 12:05 PM.
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jiar577 (10-12-2019)
09-08-2018, 06:54 AM
#39
im going to measure block out to see if the heat distorted it any, the 2nd main from rear the bearing fused itself together- but didn’t hurt the crank as bad as the one closest to the trans.
What causes these cranks to walk?
09-08-2018, 07:02 AM
#40
stock oil pump- this motor was good- cold start up 60psi- warm idle was just over 40- wot was just under 80psi- never thought to need a better pump
im going to measure block out to see if the heat distorted it any, the 2nd main from rear the bearing fused itself together- but didn’t hurt the crank as bad as the one closest to the trans.
What causes these cranks to walk?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...k-walking.html