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Duramax intercooler install has begun

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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 11:11 AM
  #151  
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you mean 2 1/4"......unless my eyes are really bad.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 11:44 AM
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That is measuring across two adjacent bolts, 2 1/4", measuring two opposite bolts gives the diameter, 3 1/4".
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 12:43 PM
  #153  
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oh, my bad. Sorry man...semi retarded here. My clutch is also 3 1/4" center to center across the middle. So your 9 blade fan would bolt to my clutch, just dont know if the fact that its 2" shorter would make that much of a difference or not. What do you think? I wouldnt mind giving it a shot if you feel like sending it out.....if not, you could give me the part number off of it and i could get it from newgmparts.com for $30 or $40 probably.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 04:03 PM
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232C290061 I'd send it to you if I thought you would benefit, but I don't. To have a fan waving around inside an oversize hole like that will do nothing but stir up the air. You need minimal clearance around the tips of the fan blades to get the most vacuum on the fan side of the radiator. Even this is compromised with stock factory clearance, because of the allowance for engine movement. Did you consider that your water pump might be turning faster than an engine's water pump with the 9-blade fan, and that's why yours has fewer blades? I am not sure of the reason for more blades, just speculating.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 05:42 PM
  #155  
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Originally Posted by Mikegyver
232C290061 I'd send it to you if I thought you would benefit, but I don't. To have a fan waving around inside an oversize hole like that will do nothing but stir up the air. You need minimal clearance around the tips of the fan blades to get the most vacuum on the fan side of the radiator. Even this is compromised with stock factory clearance, because of the allowance for engine movement. Did you consider that your water pump might be turning faster than an engine's water pump with the 9-blade fan, and that's why yours has fewer blades? I am not sure of the reason for more blades, just speculating.

Did some more driving today. It was 97* on the mirror thermometer. Here is what i found....

Driving at any speed over 30 with no A/C, the temps stay at 180*+/- a few degrees. When I stopped for more than 5 minutes the temps would creep to about 200* and stay there, but go no higher. While driving with the A/C on, no matter what speed i was at, the temps would creep to just under 200* then the clutch would kick in and bring them back down to 180*+/- a few degrees. If i was sitting still with the A/C on, the temps would go to about 200* and sit there, but go no higher. Stop and go driving yielded pretty much the same thing. This was all tested during the day today in 95*-98* temps. Do you think i am within a comfortable operating temperature zone? Idealy with F/I i would like to operate in the 180* zone all the time, but we do not usually see temps in the upper 90's all that often so it was a good day to test. You could definately tell the difference in temps when the A/C kicked on, they rose about 20*. I assumed with the thicker radiator, that the cooling temps would have stayed lower, but i guess with the I/C now in front of the radiator and adding heat from the I/C as well, it caused the radiator to stay a little warmer. I suppose thats why they increased the radiator to a 2 core in the Dmax.

I agree mike, that a smaller diameter fan would most likely do no good and its probably not a great idea to mix and match fans and clutches. So assuming im okay with these temps, i will just enjoy my new setup for a while and see how it goes. 200* is definately not overheating and IIRC, its about the standard temps in a stock NBS truck, i just wanted to stay a little cooler, thats all.

Last edited by Whippled 496; Jul 4, 2006 at 05:49 PM.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:10 PM
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This sounds like your engine coolant temperatures. Based on the size of your IC, You must have dropped at least 60-80 degrees of IAT (intake air temp) which allows your PCM to run more aggressive timing.
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:30 PM
  #157  
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Originally Posted by Jamesbond2509
This sounds like your engine coolant temperatures. Based on the size of your IC, You must have dropped at least 60-80 degrees of IAT (intake air temp) which allows your PCM to run more aggressive timing.
dont exactly follow what you're saying? Yes, i am talking about coolant temps, and my concern for them reaching 200* (but never any higher). I wont be able to get IAT measurements until i get to the dyno. I realize thats a normal range for non forced induction vehicles, but i was concerned with it being a little to hot for me. Your saying you think its due to the extra heat tranfer brought on by the I/C cooling the charge? I suppose it could be, i just wish i could get the temps to stay around 180* like they did before the I/C install. I am sure they will come down as the ambient temps come down. Seems like i get to test this sucker under the most demanding situations...LOL. Nothing like testing the efficiency of your cooling equipment in 100* temps. Guess maybe i should be happy that stop and go driving with the A/C on in these kind of temperatures only yielded a 200* measurement. Still would rather be at 180* though...LOL
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 06:58 PM
  #158  
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This thread is getting too long, I'm too lazy to go back and look- what thermostat do you have?
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Old Jul 4, 2006 | 07:55 PM
  #159  
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Originally Posted by Mikegyver
This thread is getting too long, I'm too lazy to go back and look- what thermostat do you have?
Your right....i started a thread over in the GM section...im going to link it there. I t kinda picks up where this is getting away from the whole I/C install anyway.

https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...25#post3385825
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