crashmymax

iTrader: (1)

Choda

iTrader: (1)

stay with it man!!!

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Glad you found it (throttle body issue)

For the exhaust leak go to autozone and get a cheap mechanics stethoscope. Open the package and pull then end of it off and measure the inside of the rubber tube, then get a 16" or so piece of brake line, they should have them in stock, that will fit in the rubber hose after you cut the flare end off of it with a pipe cutter. Then bend the end of the pipe (careful not to bend it too sharp and collapse/seal the pipe!!) at the end a little so you can get under the manifold with it.

Then with the truck running drag the open end of the pipe across all sealing surfaces, when you get to the leak you'll hear it very easily through the stethoscope and you can pinpoint the leak down to a pen tip size leak.

This is how I pinpoint exhaust leaks, I have even found leaks as small as a tiny injector seal tear with it, it works really well and it's really cheap. You need the metal pipe though to keep the tube from burning when running it along exhaust parts.

In all the tool and pipe will cost you around $20 or less and save you tons of headaches. It's always good to have a mechanics stethoscope around anyway if you don't have one.

If you want I can take a picture of my setup tomorrow if this doesn't make sense.

SilverSquared

Turbo my truck when you want a break from yours, lol.
BTW..im in St Gabriel, i'd like to check out yours when its up and going.
I've been wanting to toss a turbo setup on my truck for over a year now.
I hear Lq9s LOVE forced induction. So I think it'd be fun. Still getting used
to the 4.11s I had installed a few days ago. Makes....sliding...fun.

Nathan Baader

Got my final numbers today. 527@600ish on 6lbs with the 78/75 turbo on a mustang dyno. Cant remember the exact numbers. Had some issues with fueling. The lt1 injectors I installed were draining the high side pump prematurely. Usually the low side runs out causing the high side to run out but my low side was fine. So for anyone doing a turbo. Do be a cheap *** like me and upgrade the high side along with injectors. Also the On3 manual boost controller was causing issues. Almost had to abandon the dyno session because of it. Luckily I was able to take it apart and get it working again. When I take it back to test the meth I will be replacing the boost controller because it makes me paranoid. Not a big "number" guy but I can tell my butt dyno says it rips. As far as On3 quality, everything is holding up great and operating as it should minus the boost controller.

Also the Brisk plugs solved the timing issue.

Some other notes:
- Tuner noted that the turbo lights very fast for the size.
- Tuner also noted the compressor surge. I think the kit could benefit from a bigger blow off valve. May not be an issue with other turbo sizes but with the 78/75 it is.

Not to derail, Just wanted to share my experience with the kit so others can get as much info as possible.

Mercier

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the suggestion. I've actually got a proper mechanic's stethoscope and that probably would've worked fine. Honestly, I knew in my gut it was the same issue. Middle bolt likes to walk out. See pic below for section of gasket missing...again. Luckily manifold and head seem to be in good shape. I am 99% sure this weekend I will put it back together with just a little RTV and no gasket, and loctite AND the proper locking tabs on the bolts. Every fiber of my being says NOT WITHOUT A GASKET but that route hasn't proved terribly fruitful, has it?

LQ4s have a lower static compression and therefore can handle more boost but LQ9s can handle a lot for a street truck as well. To me, high(ish) compression and low(er) boost is better for daily driving anyway as a general statement. Once I get it stable, I'd be happy to let you check it out. I am not far(live in BR; truck in Pville). Right now I'm just now "not mad at it" and am progressing.

Sounds like you are having fun with it. Remind me what drivetrain/wheels/tires/etc? On3 swore that with the 72mm turbo I should be able to creep up on 550RWHP with no changes to the fuel system at all(not even injectors).

Thanks.

Nathan Baader

I have wheels and tires now but it was 100% stock on the dyno. 265/65r18's. Stock suspension.
They're claiming 500-550 but even their test truck with a 76mm is only making 494.
The lt1 injectors flow 30% more fuel than stock but even the high side pump was running dry at anything over 527. It made more power but was getting sketchy on the fuel side. I think you will have plenty of air with your turbo. But their claim for 550 is a stretch. I was expecting to see over 550 with my injectors, boy was I wrong.
I haven't had it on another dyno to compare but mustang dynos are usually heart breakers. Mine might make 550 on a dynojet or one of the ones you see at car shows.

If I could do it all again I would leave the stock fuel system and just put a CAM in. There are trucks making 680 with a +32 fuel lobe on the CAM and stock fueling. I don't trust myself to do the work. CAM is only 900 but labor is crazy expensive.

Mercier

iTrader: (2)

Gasket...again:

2FAST4U

I have the ON3 kit on my 2016 sierra denali. I now have the 76/75 BMF Gen2. I know a few things about these. I will say

Best not to wrap the manifold. there have been issues, not needed and waste. I have a egt just before the t4 flange max I see is 1200 on highway.
Best wires are the simple acdelco performance set Super cheap and then the titanium boots with the metal rings pull them on and zip tie the top. Never a issue for me.
Stock fuel is good over 550rwhp Few truck I know of are at that. I'm at 12psi now, stock WG spring is only 6psi so I was seeing spikes over 12psi. Have new spring as I have run 14 also. And BOV has yellow spring, was to stop the surge noise but just made it louder, may up the spring again.
I have a backup engine but think the stock block may hold for a little bit. I will add intake, tb, injectors and HPFP, oh and E85 just cause that is cheap PNP upgrade.

There is a l83 out there with 624rwhp and 620-650 is about where the rods break. Lt1 engines are better but even the lt4 fuel is limiting depending on goals and fuel type.

What stall do you have and what tuning software? No break out? Slip percents? Did you change the TCS?

JRoyPDX

Uhh, Allen Partin is made over 700 on a stock bottom L83 with a blower for a long *** time. Then went turbo and made nearly 850.

If someones breaking L83 rods at 650 its because their fuel system sucks or their tuner sucks.