LS swap in 96-98 Chevy (parts list)
#2
Parts
ECU tuned for the motor and trans you have.
O 2 senors for exhaust
all the senors for the motor and transmission
The stock gauges will have to be hooked into the motor unless you buy new gauges that run off the computer. You will need senors for them.
Motor mounts
Fuel tank with baffles along with a pump to get 60PSI + lines and regulator
O 2 senors for exhaust
all the senors for the motor and transmission
The stock gauges will have to be hooked into the motor unless you buy new gauges that run off the computer. You will need senors for them.
Motor mounts
Fuel tank with baffles along with a pump to get 60PSI + lines and regulator
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Dave_in_Kentucky (11-08-2023)
#3
Fuel tank will work as is although you might wanna do a drop in pump upgrade if yours is getting tired (can you hear the pump? If so, change it). You will need to say if you are running a return or returnless fuel system as that makes a difference on pressure regulators.
You will need a set of motor mount adapters. Dirty Dingo makes a nice set for that truck.
If you want to run AC, youll need to get a high passenger mount AC conversion bracket. The truck I just did used the Holley AC bracket kit. It fits perfect, and looks OEM. You will also need to make custom hoses because the Sanden AC compressor uses a #8 and #10 line while the AC accumulator uses a #12. I take a #10 bead lock fitting, cut of the crimp side and slide it inside the accumulator outlet tube and TIG it up.
For gauges, I remove the stock oil pressure sender, get an Equus adapter kit and screw in the stock oil pressure sender. For water, I drill the front of the water pump and install the stock sender. The spacer adapters for the passenger head read WAYYY too cold and are useless. Tach is an easy hookup using a pullup resistor and reflashing the PCM for V8 tach output (no need for getting a convertor box). The gear indicator will work once you splice over the wiring off the PRNDL.
ABS will work by sending it the VSS out and the Class2 data from the PCM.
Transmission stuff will bolt right up as its the same trans, unless you run a manual, 4l80e or a 6lX0e.
I actually repinned the factory fuse block for the fuses and relays, and was able to interface with the interior wiring via some depinning connectors and using factory terminals. We were looking for a totally factory install and other than the AC and the K&N tube to get rid of the hemholtz resonator, everything is stock factory parts. Oh and it passed CA SMOG so it has all the emmission equipment.
I did a Z06 cam swap and a tune and we got 330 hp at the wheels and runs like a sewing machine.
This is the engine compartment of a 97 Sierra 2wd I did
You will need a set of motor mount adapters. Dirty Dingo makes a nice set for that truck.
If you want to run AC, youll need to get a high passenger mount AC conversion bracket. The truck I just did used the Holley AC bracket kit. It fits perfect, and looks OEM. You will also need to make custom hoses because the Sanden AC compressor uses a #8 and #10 line while the AC accumulator uses a #12. I take a #10 bead lock fitting, cut of the crimp side and slide it inside the accumulator outlet tube and TIG it up.
For gauges, I remove the stock oil pressure sender, get an Equus adapter kit and screw in the stock oil pressure sender. For water, I drill the front of the water pump and install the stock sender. The spacer adapters for the passenger head read WAYYY too cold and are useless. Tach is an easy hookup using a pullup resistor and reflashing the PCM for V8 tach output (no need for getting a convertor box). The gear indicator will work once you splice over the wiring off the PRNDL.
ABS will work by sending it the VSS out and the Class2 data from the PCM.
Transmission stuff will bolt right up as its the same trans, unless you run a manual, 4l80e or a 6lX0e.
I actually repinned the factory fuse block for the fuses and relays, and was able to interface with the interior wiring via some depinning connectors and using factory terminals. We were looking for a totally factory install and other than the AC and the K&N tube to get rid of the hemholtz resonator, everything is stock factory parts. Oh and it passed CA SMOG so it has all the emmission equipment.
I did a Z06 cam swap and a tune and we got 330 hp at the wheels and runs like a sewing machine.
This is the engine compartment of a 97 Sierra 2wd I did
Last edited by matty b; 11-17-2014 at 10:09 PM.
#4
Charlie Murphy!
iTrader: (4)
^^ That's awesome.
I'm just beginning my research, but I'm wanting to swap a 4.8/5.3/6.0 into a 99 2 door Tahoe. Can you point me in the right direction for the repinning of the ecu. I'm looking for a factory like install as well. Any idea what kind of mpg OBS swaps are getting?
Thanks!
I'm just beginning my research, but I'm wanting to swap a 4.8/5.3/6.0 into a 99 2 door Tahoe. Can you point me in the right direction for the repinning of the ecu. I'm looking for a factory like install as well. Any idea what kind of mpg OBS swaps are getting?
Thanks!
#6
Air box fitment
Fuel tank will work as is although you might wanna do a drop in pump upgrade if yours is getting tired (can you hear the pump? If so, change it). You will need to say if you are running a return or returnless fuel system as that makes a difference on pressure regulators.
You will need a set of motor mount adapters. Dirty Dingo makes a nice set for that truck.
If you want to run AC, youll need to get a high passenger mount AC conversion bracket. The truck I just did used the Holley AC bracket kit. It fits perfect, and looks OEM. You will also need to make custom hoses because the Sanden AC compressor uses a #8 and #10 line while the AC accumulator uses a #12. I take a #10 bead lock fitting, cut of the crimp side and slide it inside the accumulator outlet tube and TIG it up.
For gauges, I remove the stock oil pressure sender, get an Equus adapter kit and screw in the stock oil pressure sender. For water, I drill the front of the water pump and install the stock sender. The spacer adapters for the passenger head read WAYYY too cold and are useless. Tach is an easy hookup using a pullup resistor and reflashing the PCM for V8 tach output (no need for getting a convertor box). The gear indicator will work once you splice over the wiring off the PRNDL.
ABS will work by sending it the VSS out and the Class2 data from the PCM.
Transmission stuff will bolt right up as its the same trans, unless you run a manual, 4l80e or a 6lX0e.
I actually repinned the factory fuse block for the fuses and relays, and was able to interface with the interior wiring via some depinning connectors and using factory terminals. We were looking for a totally factory install and other than the AC and the K&N tube to get rid of the hemholtz resonator, everything is stock factory parts. Oh and it passed CA SMOG so it has all the emmission equipment.
I did a Z06 cam swap and a tune and we got 330 hp at the wheels and runs like a sewing machine.
This is the engine compartment of a 97 Sierra 2wd I did
Attachment 96997
You will need a set of motor mount adapters. Dirty Dingo makes a nice set for that truck.
If you want to run AC, youll need to get a high passenger mount AC conversion bracket. The truck I just did used the Holley AC bracket kit. It fits perfect, and looks OEM. You will also need to make custom hoses because the Sanden AC compressor uses a #8 and #10 line while the AC accumulator uses a #12. I take a #10 bead lock fitting, cut of the crimp side and slide it inside the accumulator outlet tube and TIG it up.
For gauges, I remove the stock oil pressure sender, get an Equus adapter kit and screw in the stock oil pressure sender. For water, I drill the front of the water pump and install the stock sender. The spacer adapters for the passenger head read WAYYY too cold and are useless. Tach is an easy hookup using a pullup resistor and reflashing the PCM for V8 tach output (no need for getting a convertor box). The gear indicator will work once you splice over the wiring off the PRNDL.
ABS will work by sending it the VSS out and the Class2 data from the PCM.
Transmission stuff will bolt right up as its the same trans, unless you run a manual, 4l80e or a 6lX0e.
I actually repinned the factory fuse block for the fuses and relays, and was able to interface with the interior wiring via some depinning connectors and using factory terminals. We were looking for a totally factory install and other than the AC and the K&N tube to get rid of the hemholtz resonator, everything is stock factory parts. Oh and it passed CA SMOG so it has all the emmission equipment.
I did a Z06 cam swap and a tune and we got 330 hp at the wheels and runs like a sewing machine.
This is the engine compartment of a 97 Sierra 2wd I did
Attachment 96997
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