bowtieguy79

iTrader: (1)

I have access to a 90 burb cluster. But last summer I found a factory tach dash for a 79. I want to keep mine looking stock for 79, but I may end up using the burb cluster for the time being.

I worked on my wiring yesterday. Ran all injectors, coil controls, alt, TPS, IAC, it wasn't to bad. Just took my time.

Formulized94

iTrader: (68)

sell the tach equipped cluster, that will put some coin in your pocket for sure.

Project 84

So, let me ask the question of: If you had it all to do over again...What would you do differently or not do at all? Trying to do some research for when I do mine this next spring or summer...I don't like surprises.

bowtieguy79

iTrader: (1)

Probably the only thing I would do different would be to use a different radiator. It was a Pain in the A$$ to get the tranny line adapted. The factory GM radiator from a 99 and up truck uses 17mm 1.50 thread fittings. NO ONE makes this! AT ALL ( at least I couldn't find any ) I had to use factory 99 and up fittings with the factory lines. ( they are actually quick disconnect ) Used about 2" of factory hard line and then used an Earls tube to 6AN. Kinda sticks out to far, looks funny. Also won't need to have the factory overflow tank.
Just use a stock 4 core or 3 core.

Other than that, no. I have been thinking this out for at least 2 years. I am doing the wires my self, it isn't bad, but if you second guess your ability, don't be affraid to send it to Speartech to have it redone. ( best in my eyes )

bowtieguy79

iTrader: (1)

So tell me, what if anything from my 79 harness would need to be adapted to make the 90 burb cluster work? My 79 harness should be the close if not the same as your 82. I know that I'll need a 90 burb oil sender, and run my own wire for the Speedo. Is it Red pin 50? Drk grn/wht wire? or Red pin 49 yel/blk wire? Eng temp and alt should be strait forward the same I would imagine.

Thanks!

Formulized94

iTrader: (68)

The only thing I would do different is I would have went ahead and bout the 6.0 rather than the 5.3. Because right now, I am wanting more power. The truck runs real good now, and I have no complaints at all.

As for the transmission lines, I used stock Fbody trans cooler lines and the threaded right into my new factory radiator. Since then though, I put a B and M cooler on the truck.

Drk green and white I beleive, but I will check for you tonight. I didnt use any engine temp signal from the pcm, I used a 1998 3 wire coolant temp sensor on the passenger side head.

The pin out of the gauge cluster is definately different, however, it is quite easy to figure out. I just traced every thing on the back of my original cluster from the connector whatever it went to. Then did the same on the Burb cluster.

bowtieguy79

iTrader: (1)

[/QUOTE]Drk green and white I beleive, but I will check for you tonight. I didnt use any engine temp signal from the pcm, I used a 1998 3 wire coolant temp sensor on the passenger side head.

The pin out of the gauge cluster is definately different, however, it is quite easy to figure out. I just traced every thing on the back of my original cluster from the connector whatever it went to. Then did the same on the Burb cluster.[/QUOTE]

Ya I figured it was the drk green and white wire. I used another 2 wire factory style coolent sensor in the pass head.

If I can successfully wire an LSx engine, I should be able to make the dash work too.

Let me know about the speedo wire when you get time! THANKS!

Project 84

So, sounds like it'd be better to just deal with the overflow tank for the radiator then. I'm thinking about it myself, but it probably won't start until later on this year, I've got some other things to tend to now, so I'm trying to soak up all the info I can, cuz I don't like surprises, especially when my truck is in 100 pieces on the floor.

I don't second guess my ability to wire something like that...there's just no way I'd ever be able to do it, I know that already, wiring and I don't get along, so I will leave that up to the pros. I'm gonna go with a 6.0L in mine and probably a 4L80E, just in case I get bit by the hp bug later on and I will need it to pull things. Thanks to both of you for the info, that gives me a little more courage to do it.

bowtieguy79

iTrader: (1)

If you can find a 6.0/4L80E for descent money go for it. 5.3's are generally WAY cheaper.

On the other hand, my buddy picked up an 01 C2500 with 165K on it for $2500. He has sold $1400 worth of parts off of it. $1100 wrapped up in a 6.0/4L80 complete harness/computer combo is well worth that! They are out there. And if you get a whole truck, you can drive it for a bit and see how it runs etc..

you are deffinetly doing the right thing now.

all I can say is READ READ READ.

I have a detailed spread sheet I can send you if you like. PM me with your email addy.

Project 84

Yeah, I know the 6.0L are about 3 times the price of a 5.3L, but I keep hearing guys saying that they wish they would've went with the 6.0L instead of the 5.3L and I don't think I'd ever be happy with the power potential of the 5.3L...I have an addiction to hp and speed...but I refuse to join a 12 step program, I'm still in denial about it . Anyway, yeah, I'm looking at a few 6.0L that have around 100K on them for about $1200, but like I said, I'd rather drop the money now than later after I've already dumped a bunch in something different. Figure I'd be ahead of the game by doing that.