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The LLY had the first generation of egr coolers on the Duramax. It is prone to failure and has been the root cause of some to blow head gaskets. I would delete it if possible, it's super easy on an LLY. You also need to google ficm harness fix LLY and ice pick fix LLY and do some reading...
The LLY had the first generation of egr coolers on the Duramax. It is prone to failure and has been the root cause of some to blow head gaskets. I would delete it if possible, it's super easy on an LLY. You also need to google ficm harness fix LLY and ice pick fix LLY and do some reading...
Any particular articles or forums I should look into reading regarding these issues?
I don't have emissions where I live so I should be able to run no cat. The only thing to worry about would be state inspection visual. Same for the case of the EGR. Depending on the inspection station they may fail for no cat or EGR present. How much over stock would the EGR pushing open happen?
I will definitely look into S&B for the CAI and a new mouthpiece. Dry flow filter is a must. Does the mouthpiece get rid of the PCV? Or do people just run a catch can before the intake?
Power wise though, I'll be fine with what ever the intake/inlet, egr delete, exhaust and tune will get me. I don't need anything that will make me get into the trans at all or not let me get 200k miles and more.
They still do a re-rout of the PCV.
Not sure on the exact power level But I have read about it being an issue. if your deleting it no need to worry about it.
I can't fully delete in my area as I need it for visual.
Idaho Rob is one of the top name's I keep hearing along with Korey Willis.
Well no performance parts of any kind have been installed yet (unless you count a K&N drop-in filter). But, I have made my new-to-me Duramax a lot less grandpa and plain looking. Now it actually feels like "My truck!"
So far I've added the weathertech mud guards, tow mirrors (hated the accordion style mirrors), the wheels are Ultra "Machine" in 18x9 and the tires are Cooper Discoverer A/T3 in 265/70-18. These didn't quite fit under the stock height front end, so I turned the torsion bars up somewhere around 1.25"-1.5" total and trimmed just a little bit of the lower valance to get the clearance I needed. There is now only about a 1.5" difference back to front.
That will come as soon as I figure out what Im going to do with the PCV line going into it. Also trying to decide if I wanna go with the LBZ intake or do something like the ProFab kit to adapt it to the LLY airbox.
That will come as soon as I figure out what Im going to do with the PCV line going into it. Also trying to decide if I wanna go with the LBZ intake or do something like the ProFab kit to adapt it to the LLY airbox.
That kit still requires the use of the LBZ mouth piece.
Not sure why the previous owner of my truck did it the way he did, but it has the AFE mouthpiece and a K&N cold air kit. Kind of an od combo...
Had I owned it, I would have went with the S&B mouthpiece and the S&B air filter kit.
Unfortunately... I got the bug and started acquiring parts both new and used...
I was trying to ask, would it be better to just do an LBZ intake, whether factory or aftermarket, versus keeping the stock LLY airbox and using the profab kit to adapt it to the LBZ mouthpiece.
I was trying to ask, would it be better to just do an LBZ intake, whether factory or aftermarket, versus keeping the stock LLY airbox and using the profab kit to adapt it to the LBZ mouthpiece.
if you want to use a factory box, I don't think it makes a difference.
My buddy did it the DIY way with the LBZ mouthpiece but that kit looks cleaner. I bet if you looked hard enough you could find the 4 inch pieces you need cheaper than buying the kit if you wanted to save money.
I dont like an exposed open filter like I currently have since there is no protection from water intrusion. I want to go to a box style filter but will probably wait till I LBZ swap it.
10-11-2017, 06:49 AM
