SLOPONY

does any one have any info on what wires I would need to use to eliminate the stock switch in favor of an aftermarket one?

I just made a steel bracket, steel pedal assembly, and mounted up a wilwood master. I want to make sure I have a Clutch safety switch, but I don't have cruise control.

So I need to know what wires to hook up to either side of a micro switch when the pedal is up, and what wires to hook to the micro switch when the pedal is down.

I want it to function like it does stock, but I can not use the stock switch, as the wilwood rod doesnt have the space for it.

SLOPONY

Nobody has a resource for wiring pin outs and what wires do what?

SLOPONY

I've seen the post with the pin out photo, but I really need to know what wires to hook together via micro switches

DrX

iTrader: (7)

2001? Looks like it is 4 switches in 1.

SLOPONY

Thanks. I'm going to try jumping them later this week. If it works, I'll install switches.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (20)

Do you have any pictures of your project truck? I know the plastic pedal ASMs have problems but did you have a problem with it or just build the metal one cause it is a project truck?

SLOPONY

I will have to post up some photos. The truck is a project truck. I'm building it for Strip/street use. More strip oriented than street. I personally HATE automatics, and have had them randomly cost me WAY too much money.

When I bought this truck, the clutch was not bled properly, and after several attempts, I noticed the master was moving as the plastic pedal flexed, and when I finally got a good pedal, it just ejected the master from the mount. I bought a new pedal assembly, and a new master, and I also read all the horror stories of these pieces of crap failing, so this winter when the truck came in the shop for the build up, I decided to fix that problem before it started. I used a wilwood 3/4" bore master, modified a clutch pedal from a 67 camaro, and built a mount from 3/16" steel plate. I made it very close to the design of the plastic one, and mimicked it as best I could. It fit first shot, and I couldn't be happier with it.

Micro switches arrive today, and as soon as I work out what wires need to go to what switch, I will install it, and let you know how it works.

I plan to do a full write up on it when its done, as I feel like the stick shift crowd could use a few ideas.

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (20)

Im going a similar route. Just waiting on this 65E to die or at least start acting shitty.

SLOPONY

I went through 5 4L60E's in my old camaro in one summer... I had a NEW performance C4 lock up on a test pass, and cost me a 418W stroker motor and the trans, and I had a C4 in a different car toss a pump seal on the drive home from the trans shop... NEVER will i willingly put an automatic in a performance vehicle ever again!

I will be running the NV3500 for a little while for street use, but plan on upgrading to a TKO500 or 600 next summer. The setup I am together now will allow me to never worry about the clutch hydraulics ever again!

SLOPONY

I got the switched figured out. in the pin out posted above...

A and B (Purple, brown with white tracer) Are a pair, and pedal up they are normally closed, pedal down they are open

C and D (Light green, purple with white tracer) Are a pair, and pedal up they are normally open, pedal down they are closed

E and F (Brown, gray) are a pair, and pedal up they are normally closed, pedal down they are open.

Now one thing that I noticed is that Pair A and B, and pair E and F need to switch from closed to open fairly soon in the pedal stroke, and pair B and C need to go closed almost at the end of the pedal stroke. With all 3 switches activating at the same time, the truck would not crank. With the switches set as mentioned above, it cranked, fired and ran as it should. My truck does NOT have cruise, so even though I hooked up the wires to a switch any way, I can not confirm that it works to deactivate the cruise.