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Check your oil pressure!

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Old 02-05-2009, 08:47 PM
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Nope, Maryland. It'll be in the single digits here tomorrow morning. I have oil temp added to my PID list now.

Can external inputs be added to the DH or just the OBDII stuff?
Old 02-05-2009, 08:59 PM
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I'm not sure what my oil temps were, but I had already driven 45 minutes in traffic and freeway before I started checking oil pressure.
Old 02-06-2009, 10:38 AM
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The LS2 engines run lower pressure then the trucks have. I actually use Mobil 1 15/50 full synthetic, I am also in a very moderate climate. I have seen LS2's run as little as 10 psi even in the car platforms with a different oil pan. The LS2 does not have priority main oiling. You can run a blueprinted melling pump and get a little more pressure.

You have to watch that the PCV on the back of the drivers side head is not sucking up oil on hard acceleration. If this is happening and you dont watch your level you will be in trouble. I actually cap that PCV off or run a catch can on it so you can watch how much oil is being pulled from there. I currently run dual passenger side valve covers and push in style breathers. This has completely cured the issues.

I have some very hard miles on my forged LS2 and it has been holding together great. I think that it is best to use a 10/30 in the winter and 15/50 in the summer. This will help with the thermal breakdown.
Old 02-06-2009, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by leftcoast32
The LS2 engines run lower pressure then the trucks have. I actually use Mobil 1 15/50 full synthetic, I am also in a very moderate climate. I have seen LS2's run as little as 10 psi even in the car platforms with a different oil pan. The LS2 does not have priority main oiling. You can run a blueprinted melling pump and get a little more pressure.
I've seen others mentioning the melling pump, and may add that to a future mod list. My main concern is having such low oil-pressure at high rpms. I've read countless threads talking about bearing failure. I'd like to be proactive if possible. If the best we can do is a melling 10296 pump and possibly the custom oil pan, then so be it.

Originally Posted by leftcoast32
You have to watch that the PCV on the back of the drivers side head is not sucking up oil on hard acceleration. If this is happening and you dont watch your level you will be in trouble. I actually cap that PCV off or run a catch can on it so you can watch how much oil is being pulled from there. I currently run dual passenger side valve covers and push in style breathers. This has completely cured the issues.
Thanks for the info Joe! When I installed my TVS, my TBSS had 600 miles on the odometer. Upon pulling the intake off, there was A LOT more oil around the gaskets and in the intake runners than I would have expected. A catch can is definitely on my list.

Originally Posted by leftcoast32
I have some very hard miles on my forged LS2 and it has been holding together great. I think that it is best to use a 10/30 in the winter and 15/50 in the summer. This will help with the thermal breakdown.
What your take on mixing oils of different viscosities? Like a blend of Mobil-1 10/30 and 15/50. For that matter, is 15w50 too thick to run on a low-mile stock motor?
Old 02-06-2009, 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by BigTex
What your take on mixing oils of different viscosities? Like a blend of Mobil-1 10/30 and 15/50. For that matter, is 15w50 too thick to run on a low-mile stock motor?
I wont try to do a blend in mine but we also dont see any real cold temps. You may be able to run a blend in the winter and straight 15/50 in the summer. I really like the Mobil-1 15/50 and would use it even in a stock engine in the summer months. It is a full synthetic so it isn't as thick as you may think.
Old 02-06-2009, 12:32 PM
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I have 5w30, 10w30, and 15w50 here. I think it's too cold here right now to go with the 15w50 straight so I guess I'm going to put the 10w30 in.

I bought the 5 qt containers so if I need a little to top it off I'll probably use the 15w50 for that.

I am going to log some of my other vehicles too to make sure the gauges aren't WAY off like this TBSS.
Old 02-06-2009, 12:34 PM
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Also, the oil temp reading from the computer is an estimated temperature. The PID even says estimated. The actual temp PID just reads -40 so it's not used. BigTex and I were talking earlier trying to figure out where a temp sensor was for the oil...none that we could think of. lol

My ESTIMATED temps never went over 228F but, does that really mean anything? I kinda have my doubts.
Old 02-06-2009, 06:43 PM
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ok i got mine up to around 210* and the lowest i saw was 23psi to a high of 55psi.i forgot and put royal purple in itlast time i changed the oil about 2K miles ago.i run 5w30 and have never really thought about running anything different. i think when it warms up ill run 10w30.

interesting stuff here guys
Old 02-07-2009, 06:11 PM
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I've never believed the oil pressure or temperature gauge on these trucks. They seem more like idiot lights. My oil pressure gauge always reads a hair over 40 psi. I didn't know you can monitor oil pressure with EFILive. What PID is it?
Old 02-07-2009, 06:51 PM
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Alright, I changed the oil today. I put in a 5 qt jug of Mobil1 10w30 and in order to get it to the top of the cross hatch on the dipstick tube I had to add almost 2 qts of M1 15w50 that I had. I didn't want to put that much in but, I didn't buy anymore 10w30. lol

Pressure seems a tiny bit better but, not much. Filling it way up to the top of the cross hatch seems to have helped the dips in pressure a lot. On one WOT blast from a dig this evening pressure dropped to 36psi around 2700rpm but, recovered quickly and was at 45psi by 3400. It climbed to a high of 54psi on that run.

GM.ENGOILP is the PID in EFILive.


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