Transfercase to hold 800+ HP
#1
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Transfercase to hold 800+ HP
2001 Silverado 1500 4x4
forged LQ4 / LS3 head EPS cam - built for boost
4l80E swap
3600 Stall
14 bolt SF Detroit true trac swap
5.13 yukon gears
33" tires
Auto button Transfer case - np246 (think 246 as it does have AUTO 4x4 button) Changed input shaft to mate to 4l80e.
What transfer case should I be installing? Is the floor shift transfer case out of 2000+ 3/4 the better option? Any Help I appreciate
We got 2 pulls of WOT and 120+ MPH comes fast.
Then this happened LOL
forged LQ4 / LS3 head EPS cam - built for boost
4l80E swap
3600 Stall
14 bolt SF Detroit true trac swap
5.13 yukon gears
33" tires
Auto button Transfer case - np246 (think 246 as it does have AUTO 4x4 button) Changed input shaft to mate to 4l80e.
What transfer case should I be installing? Is the floor shift transfer case out of 2000+ 3/4 the better option? Any Help I appreciate
We got 2 pulls of WOT and 120+ MPH comes fast.
Then this happened LOL
#4
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
The big rules with tcases with high power:
1. Do not shift out of 4wd under power. None of this shifting back to 2wd after that 1-2 shift, or you will break the shift fork in the tcase.
2. Do not use auto 4x4, put it in 4wd or leave it in 2wd.
I personally like the manual tcases the best (manual shift, no auto 4x4), with the electronic ones being ok (button shift, no auto 4x4).
They are very strong pieces if you dont try to get crazy shifting in and out of 4wd under a lot of power. Keep in mind you arent even suppose to use 4wd over 40mph!
1. Do not shift out of 4wd under power. None of this shifting back to 2wd after that 1-2 shift, or you will break the shift fork in the tcase.
2. Do not use auto 4x4, put it in 4wd or leave it in 2wd.
I personally like the manual tcases the best (manual shift, no auto 4x4), with the electronic ones being ok (button shift, no auto 4x4).
They are very strong pieces if you dont try to get crazy shifting in and out of 4wd under a lot of power. Keep in mind you arent even suppose to use 4wd over 40mph!
Last edited by Atomic; 12-22-2015 at 02:32 PM.
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The big rules with tcases with high power:
1. Do not shift out of 4wd under power. None of this shifting back to 2wd after that 1-2 shift, or you will break the shift fork in the tcase.
2. Do not use auto 4x4, put it in 4wd or leave it in 2wd.
I personally like the manual tcases the best (manual shift, no auto 4x4), with the electronic ones being ok (button shift, no auto 4x4).
They are very strong pieces if you dont try to get crazy shifting in and out of 4wd under a lot of power. Keep in mind you arent even suppose to use 4wd over 40mph!
1. Do not shift out of 4wd under power. None of this shifting back to 2wd after that 1-2 shift, or you will break the shift fork in the tcase.
2. Do not use auto 4x4, put it in 4wd or leave it in 2wd.
I personally like the manual tcases the best (manual shift, no auto 4x4), with the electronic ones being ok (button shift, no auto 4x4).
They are very strong pieces if you dont try to get crazy shifting in and out of 4wd under a lot of power. Keep in mind you arent even suppose to use 4wd over 40mph!
Found one for $400 so we will start round two. LOL
Thanks for the help.
#7
There is no 2wd shift fork in the auto T cases. I will add that switching it from 4wd to Auto mode as long as you're not under full power will hurt nothing. All it does is ramp up the clutch pressure on the front drive. If you want to kick it out from 4wd to Auto when you are over 80 I see no issue whatsoever. If you are rebuilding it don't use the cheap tan paper clutch frictions. The factory use High energy frictions. It will hurt nothing to run regular Dex 3 or straight tractor fluid in the cases, I have been doing it for years. These fluids provide a little more fictional grip.
Last edited by megabuddys; 12-24-2015 at 02:32 AM.
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