Charging Two Batts At Once In Dual Setup?
#11
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 57
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Kind of, I eliminated the box on mine but when it was still there I ran the large wire to the box and than a large wire from the box to battery, I believe that there is a starter wire going into that as well and I upgraded it to go along with my Tilton
No problem, i think everyone enjoys seeing quality work done to vehicles or else car shows wouldn't exist
No problem, i think everyone enjoys seeing quality work done to vehicles or else car shows wouldn't exist
#12
Still Tweaking the install.
I am trying out some heavy duty heat shrink and mercy its great stuff. It gets tighter as it anneals from under-hood temps. I think it could almost be used as hose clamps.
If I had known it would be so ridged I would have used shorter lengths.
I also fabricated a replacement for the fender brace that had to give way for the battery. It may not be as strong but is better than nothing.
Still Tweaking and Breathing on Her.
I am trying out some heavy duty heat shrink and mercy its great stuff. It gets tighter as it anneals from under-hood temps. I think it could almost be used as hose clamps.
If I had known it would be so ridged I would have used shorter lengths.
I also fabricated a replacement for the fender brace that had to give way for the battery. It may not be as strong but is better than nothing.
Still Tweaking and Breathing on Her.
#13
1.) Big 3 is awesome I was just telling someone else about it, defiantly a must with all that you are trying to do.
The alternator wire defiantly needs to be upgraded or else everything else is for nothing. Lets knock out the easy part first, the alternator is the central ground for your whole system so make sure to upgrade the engine blocks ground strap, no fuse needed obviously. For the positive side of the alternator, the whole point of a fuse is to protect your truck from fire, damage in the event that the wire is shorted out. I assume one of your batteries is still in the stock location and that you still have that little red junction box between the alternator and batter. If your running a foot of wire to that box and than a foot from the box to the battery and they wire is tapped and loomed like it should be than what do you think the chances that the wire will short out? I'm thinking almost impossible unless you do something really weird and I don't like to plan for the worst. You have big fuses down the line for anything that happens with your system so the only thing that a a fuse would be protecting is approximately 2ft of wire thats loomed and taped. I don't think its necessary
I run a 0 gauge lead from the core support, to the alternator, to the wiper cowl, it has split loom and tape closing the loom the entire length and I've been running this way for years with no problems because I ran the wire smartly without a chance of it grounding somewhere.
All that being said the alternator wire is the biggest one todo out of the whole upgrade and I highly recommend that you do it. I've done it to many cars over the years and never had a problem. I have however seen a circuit breaker's positive side ground out on brake lines and cause a wreck from fire/loss of braking. Luckily no one was hurt but it was ironic nonetheless.
2.) Same concept on your batteries, your install looks great very clean and out of the way. You said you were out of loom and I assume you plan to put it on once you get more. Your runs are short and unless you see a potential for your positive wire to ground out there is no need for a fuse. And if you do think it will ground out move it !!! haha
If your ground wire grounds out.... good, more power to it
-Matt
The alternator wire defiantly needs to be upgraded or else everything else is for nothing. Lets knock out the easy part first, the alternator is the central ground for your whole system so make sure to upgrade the engine blocks ground strap, no fuse needed obviously. For the positive side of the alternator, the whole point of a fuse is to protect your truck from fire, damage in the event that the wire is shorted out. I assume one of your batteries is still in the stock location and that you still have that little red junction box between the alternator and batter. If your running a foot of wire to that box and than a foot from the box to the battery and they wire is tapped and loomed like it should be than what do you think the chances that the wire will short out? I'm thinking almost impossible unless you do something really weird and I don't like to plan for the worst. You have big fuses down the line for anything that happens with your system so the only thing that a a fuse would be protecting is approximately 2ft of wire thats loomed and taped. I don't think its necessary
I run a 0 gauge lead from the core support, to the alternator, to the wiper cowl, it has split loom and tape closing the loom the entire length and I've been running this way for years with no problems because I ran the wire smartly without a chance of it grounding somewhere.
All that being said the alternator wire is the biggest one todo out of the whole upgrade and I highly recommend that you do it. I've done it to many cars over the years and never had a problem. I have however seen a circuit breaker's positive side ground out on brake lines and cause a wreck from fire/loss of braking. Luckily no one was hurt but it was ironic nonetheless.
2.) Same concept on your batteries, your install looks great very clean and out of the way. You said you were out of loom and I assume you plan to put it on once you get more. Your runs are short and unless you see a potential for your positive wire to ground out there is no need for a fuse. And if you do think it will ground out move it !!! haha
If your ground wire grounds out.... good, more power to it
-Matt
Thanks.
#15
Staging Lane
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 57
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I would take some pictures for you but you can't really see much.
Starting from the front of the truck I drilled a hole on the bottom of the top bar of the core support, a 0 gauge wire is split up in there between E-fans, HID's, off road lights, eventually a winch, and currently thats where my anderson connector for jumper cables is but I plan to move that to behind a flip down license plate on the rear bumper. The wire goes from underneath the core support along the lower coolant hose and than up the motor behind the water pump and than hits a 3-way. One side of it goes to the alternator and the other runs tucked in the motor to the inside of the truck. Inside the truck behind where the stock radio used to be that wire hits another 3 way where one side hits the fuse box and the other runs to the back wall of the truck where the amps, charger, and inverter are mounted, from there it goes to a magnetic latch cut off switch, a cut off bypass for the alarm and radio settings, and than the battery mounted to the frame .
Let me know if you want specific pictures of any part of my system or further explanation.
-Matt
Starting from the front of the truck I drilled a hole on the bottom of the top bar of the core support, a 0 gauge wire is split up in there between E-fans, HID's, off road lights, eventually a winch, and currently thats where my anderson connector for jumper cables is but I plan to move that to behind a flip down license plate on the rear bumper. The wire goes from underneath the core support along the lower coolant hose and than up the motor behind the water pump and than hits a 3-way. One side of it goes to the alternator and the other runs tucked in the motor to the inside of the truck. Inside the truck behind where the stock radio used to be that wire hits another 3 way where one side hits the fuse box and the other runs to the back wall of the truck where the amps, charger, and inverter are mounted, from there it goes to a magnetic latch cut off switch, a cut off bypass for the alarm and radio settings, and than the battery mounted to the frame .
Let me know if you want specific pictures of any part of my system or further explanation.
-Matt
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