Teeny05

iTrader: (1)

So i've been lurking for a couple weeks now and will try to contribute when I can, maybe this may help some folks who are interested in a Stereo/Amp install.

When installing the head unit, you will need to run a 12v+ switched wire to the fuse panel under dash near brake/clutch or somewhere else. Then you will use the original Orange wire for constant 12v, and black for ground. You can cut/tie up all of the speaker wires as they are not needed.

My new head unit also has bluetooth and hands free calling. Came with a tiny mic with 4-6ft of wire. Pop off driver A pillar cover, run wire under dash to head unit hole, behind pillar cover. Leave about 4" and connect mic to left side of visor. Visor has full tilt and I never notice the mic unless i look up/visor is down.

First: If you have a stock style battery as I did, you will need terminal extensions to add your power (and ground) cables to. They can be found at any local auto parts store for about $3. Ive read many threads on many Silverado forums about the grounding issues on these trucks. So I added a 4ga ground from the battery to brake hose frame bolt. Then run your power wire with fuse.



Wire is run through factory harness grommet through firewall.

Second: Power wire is run under kick panel, under step panel and carpet to rear wall. Remote wire from stereo is also ran with power wire.

RCA's from stereo are pulled from stereo opening by swinging glovebox down and reaching up. Run RCA's behind glovebox and behind passenger side dash opening hole, to kick panel and back. Make sure RCA's are on passenger side away from power cable.

If you are running a 4CH+ amp, you will want to run new speaker wires to all of the speakers. This is easy if you are already tearing the interior apart to put new speakers in. I prefer 16ga for speakers/12ga for subs. Any cheap speaker wire will do.







When hooking up the speaker wires to speakers I suggest you solder anything you can.


Without the solder, the terminal connectors would wiggle and could possibly loosen up over time with vibrations from music/road.

When mounting the amp, I used the original stud for the OEM jack as a ground. Just clean it up well with a wire wheel/sandpaper.

Also, when mounting an amp, do not mount it directly to the sheetmetal. As vibrations from the metal can damage internal components over time. (Ive mounted plenty previously to metal, but it does make sense as I was told my manufacturer)

So I made a mounting board out of a piece of wood laying around and painted it black. The board is mounted to the back wall using 1-1/4" sheet metal screws (hex), then the amp is mounted to the board using the supplied screws.







So as you can see in the blurry pics, there is plenty of room for a box/sub on the passenger side as well if I want one later on. None of the wires are visible under they exit the carpet through a slit I made with a razor.

Make sure you label all of the speaker wires when you pull them through the hole cause they all look the same. I used yellow electrical tape and a sharpie cause its what I had laying around. Masking tape works well too.



The box is easily removed if I need the space for storage or leaving the truck somewhere for awhile. Just pull the wires out of the quick disconnect. This box also allows full movement of seat (full rear/recline).

Any questions please ask!

2plus2

I need a box that fits behind the seat like that. Where you get it?

Teeny05

iTrader: (1)

Kicker 40TCWRT102 10" Loaded Subwoofer Truck Enclosure