Custom front mount single turbo setup for sale
09-27-2007, 09:28 PM
#1
Custom front mount single turbo setup for sale
I’m seriously debating changing my turbo setup to twins so my front mount single setup is up for sale. I built the setup myself; all piping is .065” thick 304 stainless from Stainlessworks. The manifold flanges are from them as well and are 3/8” thick.
Asking $2499 obo Shipped in the Continental US
Open to reasonable offers
If someone is interested in the hot pipe setup but wants to run an different turbo, pm me and maybe we can work something out. I also have a brand new PT76GTSH that was for another project that you could run instead.
Garrett GT4294 turbo
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...4_731376_1.htm
1.15 A/R turbine housing, probably less than 20 street miles and 8 ¼ mile track passes at 5 psi (new to tuning, the Chevelle ran a 14.05 @ 105 mph leaving off idle with a dismal 2.488s 60’, internally stock LQ4, stock 4L80E, 1600rpm converter, 3.73 rear gear, 26” street tires)
T4 flange turbine housing 4” V band turbine outlet
5” compressor inlet and 3” V band compressor outlet
Tial 44mm v-band flange waste gate 11 psi spring
Manifold to turbo piping is 2.5”
Manifold flanges are 3/8” thick stainless steel
Downpipe is 3.5” and has two O2 sensor bungs
K&N air filter
Stainless 48” flex radiator hose
Oil supply and drain lines stainless steel braided hose, aluminum AN fittings
Support bracket for mounting turbo to alternator/power steering bracket
***Does not come with cold side piping, intercooler or bov***
***If I didn't list it above, it does not come with the package***
I’m not sure how I would ship the downpipe as it is; I would probably have to cut it into two pieces, but should be easy to reassemble.
I’m fairly certain that this will fit on a fullsize truck and took a couple of pics with a measuring tape for reference. If you need any additional measurements or pictures, just let me know.
If you want to see what this size turbo is really capable of, do a search for CurtD on performancetrucks.net…he has one on his truck with a built 5.3L running 12.0 @ 120 mph, making 619 rwhp and 657 ftlb https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=367977
Took some measurements off my buddy's truck (2000 Chevy 2wd, 5.3L)
Obviously the fan shroud and clutch fan would have to be removed, but there would be:
3/4-1/2" clearance between the end of the wastegate and the radiator core
2 1/2" clearance between the down pipe and radiator core
1 7/8" clearance between the wastegate pipe and radiator core
On his truck I measured about 12" from the drivers side edge of the alt/ps bracket to the battery. My turbo setup sticks out about 5" from the edge of this bracket without the air filter. With the air filter it is about 12".
The downpipe might work with a little modification where it approaches the firewall, but some of the heater hoses would definitely have to be rerouted based on what I saw on his truck.
So overall I would say this should work on a NBS (99-06) GM fullsize truck with modification to the downpipe, heater and possibly a/c hoses and removing the stock fan setup. Additionally, his pcm was mounted next to the battery sort of above the frame rail. This might need to be moved a bit as well, but it depends on if you used the same airfilter or not.
Hope this helps.
More pics can be seen here:
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture548.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture551.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture555.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture553.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture556.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture554.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture545.jpg
Asking $2499 obo Shipped in the Continental US
Open to reasonable offers
If someone is interested in the hot pipe setup but wants to run an different turbo, pm me and maybe we can work something out. I also have a brand new PT76GTSH that was for another project that you could run instead.
Garrett GT4294 turbo
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbob...4_731376_1.htm
1.15 A/R turbine housing, probably less than 20 street miles and 8 ¼ mile track passes at 5 psi (new to tuning, the Chevelle ran a 14.05 @ 105 mph leaving off idle with a dismal 2.488s 60’, internally stock LQ4, stock 4L80E, 1600rpm converter, 3.73 rear gear, 26” street tires)
T4 flange turbine housing 4” V band turbine outlet
5” compressor inlet and 3” V band compressor outlet
Tial 44mm v-band flange waste gate 11 psi spring
Manifold to turbo piping is 2.5”
Manifold flanges are 3/8” thick stainless steel
Downpipe is 3.5” and has two O2 sensor bungs
K&N air filter
Stainless 48” flex radiator hose
Oil supply and drain lines stainless steel braided hose, aluminum AN fittings
Support bracket for mounting turbo to alternator/power steering bracket
***Does not come with cold side piping, intercooler or bov***
***If I didn't list it above, it does not come with the package***
I’m not sure how I would ship the downpipe as it is; I would probably have to cut it into two pieces, but should be easy to reassemble.
I’m fairly certain that this will fit on a fullsize truck and took a couple of pics with a measuring tape for reference. If you need any additional measurements or pictures, just let me know.
If you want to see what this size turbo is really capable of, do a search for CurtD on performancetrucks.net…he has one on his truck with a built 5.3L running 12.0 @ 120 mph, making 619 rwhp and 657 ftlb https://www.performancetrucks.net/fo...d.php?t=367977
Took some measurements off my buddy's truck (2000 Chevy 2wd, 5.3L)
Obviously the fan shroud and clutch fan would have to be removed, but there would be:
3/4-1/2" clearance between the end of the wastegate and the radiator core
2 1/2" clearance between the down pipe and radiator core
1 7/8" clearance between the wastegate pipe and radiator core
On his truck I measured about 12" from the drivers side edge of the alt/ps bracket to the battery. My turbo setup sticks out about 5" from the edge of this bracket without the air filter. With the air filter it is about 12".
The downpipe might work with a little modification where it approaches the firewall, but some of the heater hoses would definitely have to be rerouted based on what I saw on his truck.
So overall I would say this should work on a NBS (99-06) GM fullsize truck with modification to the downpipe, heater and possibly a/c hoses and removing the stock fan setup. Additionally, his pcm was mounted next to the battery sort of above the frame rail. This might need to be moved a bit as well, but it depends on if you used the same airfilter or not.
Hope this helps.
More pics can be seen here:
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture548.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture551.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture555.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture553.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture556.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture554.jpg
http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...Picture545.jpg
Last edited by 350SS; 10-04-2007 at 01:22 PM.
09-28-2007, 10:38 AM
#3
12 Second Truck Club
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: colorado above 6000 ft.
Posts: 2,093
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Doesn't look like a bad setup! That sure looks like there would be alot more heat under the hood then some of the other kits out there. Im sure it works great though!
09-28-2007, 11:42 AM
#5
Originally Posted by WJ MARK
Doesn't look like a bad setup! That sure looks like there would be alot more heat under the hood then some of the other kits out there. Im sure it works great though!
Last edited by 350SS; 09-28-2007 at 12:34 PM.
09-28-2007, 01:09 PM
#6
Banned
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Texas
Posts: 567
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 350SS
Stock truck manifolds 
hows the spool with the GT 42? i had one on a supra, and it was pretty much only good for drag plus nitrous...
09-28-2007, 05:00 PM
#7
Originally Posted by IMD
sweet. i noticed you dont have the oem power steering pump on there, i wonder if the manifold would still clear it...
hows the spool with the GT 42? i had one on a supra, and it was pretty much only good for drag plus nitrous...
hows the spool with the GT 42? i had one on a supra, and it was pretty much only good for drag plus nitrous...
It started spooling at about 3K and was at full boost by 4K. This was rolling into the throttle and with the stock 4L80 converter, which I think has a 1600 rpm stall. Plans were to have a 2-step and 3K converter...that'll really get things moving.
Trending Topics
09-30-2007, 08:11 PM
#8
Took some measurements off my buddy's truck (2000 Chevy 2wd, 5.3L)
Obviously the fan shroud and clutch fan would have to be removed, but there would be:
3/4-1/2" clearance between the end of the wastegate and the radiator core
2 1/2" clearance between the down pipe and radiator core
1 7/8" clearance between the wastegate pipe and radiator core
On his truck I measured about 12" from the drivers side edge of the alt/ps bracket to the battery. My turbo setup sticks out about 5" from the edge of this bracket without the air filter. With the air filter it is about 12".
The downpipe might work with a little modification where it approaches the firewall, but some of the heater hoses would definitely have to be rerouted based on what I saw on his truck.
So overall I would say this should work on a NBS (99-06) GM fullsize truck with modification to the downpipe, heater and possibly a/c hoses and removing the stock fan setup. Additionally, his pcm was mounted next to the battery sort of above the frame rail. This might need to be moved a bit as well, but it depends on if you used the same airfilter or not.
Hope this helps.
Obviously the fan shroud and clutch fan would have to be removed, but there would be:
3/4-1/2" clearance between the end of the wastegate and the radiator core
2 1/2" clearance between the down pipe and radiator core
1 7/8" clearance between the wastegate pipe and radiator core
On his truck I measured about 12" from the drivers side edge of the alt/ps bracket to the battery. My turbo setup sticks out about 5" from the edge of this bracket without the air filter. With the air filter it is about 12".
The downpipe might work with a little modification where it approaches the firewall, but some of the heater hoses would definitely have to be rerouted based on what I saw on his truck.
So overall I would say this should work on a NBS (99-06) GM fullsize truck with modification to the downpipe, heater and possibly a/c hoses and removing the stock fan setup. Additionally, his pcm was mounted next to the battery sort of above the frame rail. This might need to be moved a bit as well, but it depends on if you used the same airfilter or not.
Hope this helps.