flatblack83

The lighter the pulley the better it reacts, this one with the bearing is lighter than the other without. I didn't weigh them but it has to be 1/2 the weight. I will see how it does shortly. I was also told that here and read it searching. I've had 8 rib belt slip and hopefully i am at the end of it.

03sierraslt

iTrader: (22)

What pulley combo are you running?

flatblack83

All 8 rib...also aligned about perfect. Powerbond crank pulley(pinned), Lfp 100mm(metco) idlers, lc32 rip cut 2.7 blower pulley, innovators west alternator, power steering pulley and a green hd belt. I had the hd tensioner with belt slip so I pulled it off and put the stock one on until I had the aluminum pulley made....

flatblack83

I put the hd tensioner on today with a new belt, looks pretty good and seems to run pretty nice and straight. The tensioner is about straight across and the idlers adjusted as high as i can. I just about got the belt on and it's nice and tight. I'm going to order the water pump nut from joe this week since the water pump looks out of place..lol.

Or should the right side idler be adjusted down to put more pressure on it from the tensioner ....??

Atomic

iTrader: (42)

1. Put the tensioner all the way at the end of its travel with a large wrench.
2. Install belt around all the pulleys.
3. Move idler as far as you can to take up as much of the slack as possible in the belt then tighten the idler.
4. Release the tensioner so it can take up the slack

flatblack83

Like that the lower the idler goes the more slack it would take up, that would also tho position to push up more on the belt....if i'm looking at that right. I will go back out in the daylight tho and move the idler and the tensioner. Thankyou

Edit: I just went out and moved the idler down, I took out a decent amount of slack. Looks also how the idler is now the tensioner puts more presure on the belt.

GM1697

iTrader: (1)

yeah you want that adjustable idler as low as it can go.

flatblack83

This removed alot of slack, worked perfect. I now see 13 psi of boost at wot and so far no slip. Even when i let off the pedal i would hear the belt but right now nothing and no belt dust.

flatblack83

The dynomax x flow dual in dual out muffler has gotten real loud and has always been real raspy, sounds like glass packs....i needed to fix that. I made a few calls, dynomax said the super turbos(umm no) and magnaflow said the 12589 with one on each side would be semi quiet. Also tho they said the larger body also but they aren't cheap. The 12589 is only 3 inches longer which works about perfect.

So i'm in luck i had on my single exhaust before the long tubes a magnaflow 12589, it sounded good then. It was band clamped on the tail pipe still in my shed on t I bought another magnaflow 12589 and put them on today. Only band clamped for the time being, it sounds great. Quiet at idle, real faint drone and at wot its not even loud but a nice deep tone.

flatblack83

Changing the oil in my truck I noticed the line from the air tube to the valve cover was loose. When I changed itI found it had oil in it. So I guess my catchcan isn't up to part with my 13 psi of boost. So I called around, Googled and the best way was to look into a mighty mouse solutions setup. Dave went thru what was needed and what I should do. Keeping the pcv intact with his pcv can wild setup. This setup has the 8an fill cap port and 8an to the can, 6an from the pcv to the front port on the maggie. The other now routed from the original pcv to the air intake tube.

2 weeks later and it's here, here is 3 pics. After I routed it all I'm going to move the lines around so the routing seen is temporary until it gets warmer. Every thing looks real nice, quality can and fittings. I'll make sure to report back on how this setup does.