The Space Blue Blazer
#1
The Space Blue Blazer
A few years ago I drove down to Georgia and bought this. It didn't have much done to it as seen in the pictures below. It's a 2000 Space Blue 2dr 2wd base model.
Notice how the double DIN is mounted in the older style dash bezel and it also sticks out far.
So here is what is done up until now:
Exterior:
Crystal clear headlamps & turn signals
5k HID's
Smooth chrome bumper
Billet grill
SS mirrors
Brazillian tail lights
Interior:
Leather seats
Converted straight column to tilt w/ cruise
Double DIN dash bezel
Over 100 SMD LED's
Lloyd's floor mats
Envoy handles
Blue SMD LED's for gauges and HVAC
Alero needles
Tilt colum. It sucked driving all the way home without tilt or cruise.
Lowered 4/4.5:
2" DJM coils
2" Belltech spindles
Pulled leaf
2" blocks
1/2" blocks
4* shims
Set back plates
Belltech rear sway bar (won in a giveaway)
Street Performance shocks all around
Belltech sway bar comparison.
Engine:
350 Vortec
LT4 Hotcam
LS6 springs
Repinned for 411 PCM
K&N intake
Deleted EGR
Patriot headers
2.5" exhaust pipe
40 series Flowmaster
180* thermostat
Dodge Intrepid e-fans ran off of PCM
JTR brackets
2.8 mounts
Notice how the double DIN is mounted in the older style dash bezel and it also sticks out far.
So here is what is done up until now:
Exterior:
Crystal clear headlamps & turn signals
5k HID's
Smooth chrome bumper
Billet grill
SS mirrors
Brazillian tail lights
Interior:
Leather seats
Converted straight column to tilt w/ cruise
Double DIN dash bezel
Over 100 SMD LED's
Lloyd's floor mats
Envoy handles
Blue SMD LED's for gauges and HVAC
Alero needles
Tilt colum. It sucked driving all the way home without tilt or cruise.
Lowered 4/4.5:
2" DJM coils
2" Belltech spindles
Pulled leaf
2" blocks
1/2" blocks
4* shims
Set back plates
Belltech rear sway bar (won in a giveaway)
Street Performance shocks all around
Belltech sway bar comparison.
Engine:
350 Vortec
LT4 Hotcam
LS6 springs
Repinned for 411 PCM
K&N intake
Deleted EGR
Patriot headers
2.5" exhaust pipe
40 series Flowmaster
180* thermostat
Dodge Intrepid e-fans ran off of PCM
JTR brackets
2.8 mounts
#2
Harness labeled and removed:
bye bye 4.3:
Repinning stock harness for the extra 2 cylinders.
Everything about together.
Misc:
Core short throw shifter w/ Hurst arm and ball
Cross drilled/slotted rotors
1.5" hub centric rear wheel spacers
Flaming River u-joint steering mod
ZQ8 quick ratio steering box
I haven't felt like doing crap to it over the winter, but over the last week or so it has been nice enough outside to work on so I've been doing some more stuff.
First I ripped some of the plastic panels off:
Then both sections of the carpet(looks like it came out of the junkyard):
Stained carpet before a good pressure wash(forgot to get an after pic, but it really made the carpet look better):
Back in. The cargo carpet looks real light here, but I think it's just how the sun was hitting it. Also notice how the carpet is covering the accelerator up. I didn't notice this until I got everything back together and cranked it. lol)
$20 rearview camera. Remember the original double DIN head unit I posted earlier in this post? This is my new one. I bought a double DIN dash bezel and made this one sit in like it should.
The camera's power only comes on when in reverse.
When I had the carpet out I ran:
A power wire under the jute backing all the way to the back and through the tailgate boot for the new rear glass release.
An accessory wire under it to the driver side seat so it now has power and heat.
For the camera I ran the RC wire with an on/off wire to the rear where the on/off wire and power for the camera are connected to the back up lights.
The camera wire is ran up through the floor via a plastic cap that was there from the factory.
I also put Gorilla Tape where all of the metal on metal contacts were. I haven't driven it much, but it seems to have made a difference.
Everything is taped down with Gorilla Tape as well.
NOW for the problem that has been a PITA for me. I have no reading from my knock sensor. If I take a wrench and hit the block it reads 0*. Does anyone know how I can fix this? I'm not sure if this is the cause of it or not, but I feel my engine should be making a lot more power than it is right now. It was tuned using HP Tuners so if anyone needs a copy of my current tune to look at I can post it in the other thread. Here's the thread detailing everything.
bye bye 4.3:
Repinning stock harness for the extra 2 cylinders.
Everything about together.
Misc:
Core short throw shifter w/ Hurst arm and ball
Cross drilled/slotted rotors
1.5" hub centric rear wheel spacers
Flaming River u-joint steering mod
ZQ8 quick ratio steering box
I haven't felt like doing crap to it over the winter, but over the last week or so it has been nice enough outside to work on so I've been doing some more stuff.
First I ripped some of the plastic panels off:
Then both sections of the carpet(looks like it came out of the junkyard):
Stained carpet before a good pressure wash(forgot to get an after pic, but it really made the carpet look better):
Back in. The cargo carpet looks real light here, but I think it's just how the sun was hitting it. Also notice how the carpet is covering the accelerator up. I didn't notice this until I got everything back together and cranked it. lol)
$20 rearview camera. Remember the original double DIN head unit I posted earlier in this post? This is my new one. I bought a double DIN dash bezel and made this one sit in like it should.
The camera's power only comes on when in reverse.
When I had the carpet out I ran:
A power wire under the jute backing all the way to the back and through the tailgate boot for the new rear glass release.
An accessory wire under it to the driver side seat so it now has power and heat.
For the camera I ran the RC wire with an on/off wire to the rear where the on/off wire and power for the camera are connected to the back up lights.
The camera wire is ran up through the floor via a plastic cap that was there from the factory.
I also put Gorilla Tape where all of the metal on metal contacts were. I haven't driven it much, but it seems to have made a difference.
Everything is taped down with Gorilla Tape as well.
NOW for the problem that has been a PITA for me. I have no reading from my knock sensor. If I take a wrench and hit the block it reads 0*. Does anyone know how I can fix this? I'm not sure if this is the cause of it or not, but I feel my engine should be making a lot more power than it is right now. It was tuned using HP Tuners so if anyone needs a copy of my current tune to look at I can post it in the other thread. Here's the thread detailing everything.
Last edited by ZQ8 Blazer; 03-26-2014 at 12:56 PM.
#4
Shocks feel like brand new And I love the away bar. I had the shocks on my white blazer for like two years so I'm very pleased with their quality. Thanks for all your help
#5
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#8