NITROUS OXIDE System Designs | Installation| Wet/Dry/Direct Port

nitrous spark plug wires/spark plugs

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Old 05-11-2015, 09:09 PM
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Default nitrous spark plug wires/spark plugs

Any suggestions on what plugs and wires to run on an 07.5 cc 5.3. I have longtubes, hp tune, and running a 150 shot from NX Express, the 90 mm plate kit. I dont want to burn anything up or have some kind of backfire while spraying. I've heard of 8mm msd's being used all the way to your normal AC Delco stuff. Wanting to play it as safe as possible. Not a drag truck or off road truck, nor towing anything ever. Thanks.
Old 05-12-2015, 11:28 AM
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Generally, just about any good quality wires will work fine for what you're wanting to do. However, spark plugs is a completely different story. You're going to want something that is a non-projected tip plug, with a copper core. On the late model GM engines, the NGK BR7EF if a good plug for a 150 hit, assuming you have a stock compression ratio. It's a non-projected tip, copper core plug that does really well with nitrous. If you're wanting to run it the safest you possibly can, you'll also need to pull some timing when you're spraying. The general rule of thumb is 2 degrees for every 50HP, and that should work fine for your application (pull 6* for a 150 hit). There are boxes available that allow you to pull the timing when your nitrous activates (like the Lingenfelter LNC-2000), eliminating the need to have multiple tunes available. Another good safety measure is a window switch or progressive controller. if you don't have one already. A window switch will only allow your nitrous to be activated between certain preset RPMs that you'd choose. Generally they activate from around 3500 up to a couple hundred RPMs before your shift point. Most modern window switches also have TPS activation. A progressive controller may be a good investment if you're using the vehicle on the street, because it can help you keep traction when your nitrous activates. Most progressive controllers have a built-in window switch and TPS activation, so you won't have to wire a bunch of different boxes together. If you don't have a purge or bottle heater I'd also suggest getting one, as they are imperative in the performance of a nitrous system. The purge will not only help vent air bubbles out of the line (the air bubbles cause rich conditions and an inconsistent hit), but it can also vent pressure in the event your bottle pressure is too high (above 1000psi). On the other hand you have the heater, which will warm your bottle, causing the pressure to rise. It is extremely important that a nitrous system has a steady supply of nitrous at a steady pressure (~950PSI is best). Many heaters come with a pressure switch which will turn the heater on and off automatically, keeping the pressure right where it needs to be. If you need any of these things, I'm sure some of the vendors on the site would be more than happy to help.
Old 05-12-2015, 11:30 AM
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Any plug Wires will work fine with nitrous. As far as the plug goes I would recommend running a NGK BR7ef gaped at about .035 to prevent the spark from being blown out with the nitrous.

Trey
Old 05-19-2015, 07:56 PM
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Thanks for the help guys!! I've got everything I need except the plugs and wires. I'm going to pull timing during the re-tune, so it doesn't bother me to have it pulled permanently even N/A. I'll just deal with the horsepower loss, or up the shot to 200 if I need more power. Again, I appreciate the input said and will post numbers as soon as I can get the re-tune
Old 05-21-2015, 11:56 AM
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You can drive around with timing pulled for the nitrous no problem. The only issue is it would run a little down on power being that the timing is retarded.


-Chris
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