forged 370 oil pressure issues
05-06-2015, 05:52 PM
#1
forged 370 oil pressure issues
I bit the bullet and ended up purchasing a 370 shortblock due to being on such a short time frame. Builder will be left out of this all but I'm having some major issues. the shortblock was already assembled so I do not know the exact bearing tolerances.
The engines upper end etc was assembled by myself and was primed fully before start up. With injectors unplugged oil pressure was about 60psi while priming and roughly the same during the initial break in on 20w50 After the first oil change oil pressure suddenly dropped and once hot dropped below builders spec of 35 to about 25-20. Been through 3 oil filters and two changed as well to rule out them collapsing
The opsu was not the issue mechanical guage verified barbell and valley plug were both in. With the pushrod checker and presoaked lifters I assumed length was correct. The valvetrain is very quiet and the supplied melling black o ring and red spring were installed on the pickup and pump.
Today I looked through the fill cap and didn't see any oil. The low pressure made me think maybe the o ring is damaged or that the cam retainer plate may be the other source of the low oil pressure. This has been an ongoing issue and my head is spinning. If anyone could chime in or has any other ideas it'd be greatly appreciated
The engines upper end etc was assembled by myself and was primed fully before start up. With injectors unplugged oil pressure was about 60psi while priming and roughly the same during the initial break in on 20w50 After the first oil change oil pressure suddenly dropped and once hot dropped below builders spec of 35 to about 25-20. Been through 3 oil filters and two changed as well to rule out them collapsing
The opsu was not the issue mechanical guage verified barbell and valley plug were both in. With the pushrod checker and presoaked lifters I assumed length was correct. The valvetrain is very quiet and the supplied melling black o ring and red spring were installed on the pickup and pump.
Today I looked through the fill cap and didn't see any oil. The low pressure made me think maybe the o ring is damaged or that the cam retainer plate may be the other source of the low oil pressure. This has been an ongoing issue and my head is spinning. If anyone could chime in or has any other ideas it'd be greatly appreciated
05-06-2015, 07:21 PM
#3
I assume it's probably an iron block? Idle rpm? Those pressures may very well be normal, until you know bearing clearances it's just a guess. Sounds like you have checked all the normal stuff. I just went through this with an aluminum erl 427. Mains are all at .0018-.0019, it only carries 20psi hot with 10/40 and 32-35psi with 20/50. I don't like it and it freaked me out for a couple weeks but I have over 2000 miles on it now, changed oil 3 or 4 times and cut filters open every time and nothing out of the ordinary, my valve train is also quiet. I know it's not what you want to hear but it's probably normal for a "built" motor. You need to find out what the bearing's are set at before you stress about it any more. Also, if the pressure comes up with rpm and it carries 60+ wot it's probably fine.
05-06-2015, 08:06 PM
#4
Well the thing is is the builder won't give specs on what the tolerances are which aggravated me quite a bit. Assuming the 20w50 I'd think bearings are within the .025 to .030 range but I can't say for sure without plastiguaging. As for idle it's at 900 on an iron block. The builder days with his tolerances it should be at about 35psi. As for oil pressure I havnt seen it come above 40 psi which does bother me. My cam retainer plate did look flat which could be part of it. I'm almost positive that when I had the engine on the stand that I triple checked the o ring. But as stated also I'm unsure of wether the black o ring was the correct move to make
05-06-2015, 08:34 PM
#6
Cut open the oil filter and see if its shiny and has metal flakes. If so, you have spun a bearing. Also double check with a second gauge. Gauges do break sometimes.
On a side note, I would stay far far away from any builder that wouldnt give specs. He either wont tell for some secret reason, which I find weird, or even worse is he doesnt know, which is very bad.
On a side note, I would stay far far away from any builder that wouldnt give specs. He either wont tell for some secret reason, which I find weird, or even worse is he doesnt know, which is very bad.
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05-06-2015, 08:57 PM
#8
No sir the 295 pump came with the red installed and the blue spring for 5-10 less psi. As for plastiguaging I should've done it before I put it in but I'm sure it would "void" the warranty. And atomic I wasn't too happy when I was told that.after interning for tnt racing engines myself there were no secrets whatsoever. specs were recorded and if the customer wanted specs on build sheet. As for bearing material there's none there is metal but nothing out or the ordinary out of a fresh engine. As for the company they claim a 500 mile break in before wot...no offense to anyone on here but I'm a strong believer in breaking them in on how they'll be driven. Either way have any of you guys experienced a damaged o ring or leaky cam retainer plate? I'm half tempted just to see if replacing both solve any issues before I yank this engine back out. Unless there's something else I can be overlooking
05-06-2015, 09:47 PM
#10
I'd rather not put their name out there like that. but ots just weird how it went from having awsome pressure to low. Idled for 20 min first start at 50 then again all assembly lube and whatnot probably thickened the oil more so. Only reason I ask about the retaining plate is since the gasket wasn't protruded outwards like it was when I did my cam swap in the 4.8. Also the fact oil pressure wonr rise higher than 40 from the around the block ride I took