Cam advice
#1
Cam advice
Hey guys, I have a bone stock 2010 Sierra 1500 SLE 5.3L and I'm looking to cam it and I'm trying to get as much info and advice as possible before I buy the parts. Here's the cam I'm looking at:
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...GEN3CAMSThumpr
Now, I'm going to do the lifters rods springs and retainers as well but I'm not sure what the best parts to go with are. And more specifically, what length pushrods I'll need.
Also, on a side note, I plan on getting a Diablo i2 to go with it afterwards to shut off the afm.
Tell me what you think of that set up and any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
http://www.compperformancegroupstore...GEN3CAMSThumpr
Now, I'm going to do the lifters rods springs and retainers as well but I'm not sure what the best parts to go with are. And more specifically, what length pushrods I'll need.
Also, on a side note, I plan on getting a Diablo i2 to go with it afterwards to shut off the afm.
Tell me what you think of that set up and any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
Don't buy the diablow tuner, it will be nothing but a waste of money.
This vehicle will need a complete custom tune with a camshaft change, that is something that cheap handheld tuner can not do.
A few more parts will be needed too, timing cover, valley plate and cam gear because you are removing the DoD/AFM.
Do you plan to buy a aftermarket torque converter as well??
Because that cam is a little big for a stock stall, I'd go with a smaller cam if you don't want to switch stall converters. Maybe something like a 212/218 or similar.
This vehicle will need a complete custom tune with a camshaft change, that is something that cheap handheld tuner can not do.
A few more parts will be needed too, timing cover, valley plate and cam gear because you are removing the DoD/AFM.
Do you plan to buy a aftermarket torque converter as well??
Because that cam is a little big for a stock stall, I'd go with a smaller cam if you don't want to switch stall converters. Maybe something like a 212/218 or similar.
#3
Damn I was hoping I could just shut it off with a handheld tuner and not need to buy more parts. I'm new to all this and I've seen vids of this cam in a truck similar to mine with nothing more then new lifters. It says the stock converter would not need changing but I guess if I had to I would. Thanks for the help.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
GEN 4's are single bolt cam, the cam you posted looks like a 3 bolt cam.
2010+ have VVT, so you'd need a non-VVT front cover.
Any camshaft change requires tuning, that cam if far larger than stock and will flow more air at any given time compared to the stock cam. All the airflow tables and fueling tables in the computer will be wrong and that's why a tune is required.
2010+ have VVT, so you'd need a non-VVT front cover.
Any camshaft change requires tuning, that cam if far larger than stock and will flow more air at any given time compared to the stock cam. All the airflow tables and fueling tables in the computer will be wrong and that's why a tune is required.
#5
Thanks for pointing that out. I'll look for a different one. Is VVT and AFM the same thing. If I were to put a cam in that is compatible with them could I still disable it with a tuner afterward and not have to buy the parts you mentioned.
About taking it in for a tune after the installation I know that would be necessary I just want the 4cyl mode gone for good.
Thanks again
About taking it in for a tune after the installation I know that would be necessary I just want the 4cyl mode gone for good.
Thanks again
#6
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (2)
DoD/AFM and VVT are totally different. DoD just disables 4 cylinders and VVT can advanced or retard the cam timing depending on the needs of the engine.
You are better off just doing the full DoD delete, You'd still have to go through all the hassle to remove the DoD lifters for the cam, new lifter trays, pushrods, springs. You could pick a VVT cam and keep the front cover though and just buy the valley cover the dod delete. I'd suggest reading up on all this. It's going to cost a little bit of coin to do cam swaps on GEN 4 engines.
Whoever tunes this vehicle can disable the DoD and do all the other changes required in on shot. That's why you don't need to buy a handheld tuner.
You are better off just doing the full DoD delete, You'd still have to go through all the hassle to remove the DoD lifters for the cam, new lifter trays, pushrods, springs. You could pick a VVT cam and keep the front cover though and just buy the valley cover the dod delete. I'd suggest reading up on all this. It's going to cost a little bit of coin to do cam swaps on GEN 4 engines.
Whoever tunes this vehicle can disable the DoD and do all the other changes required in on shot. That's why you don't need to buy a handheld tuner.
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#8
I've been doing more research in the whole dod and vvt thing and I have a few (lots) more questions.. First, this cam being a three bolt, is that what the new gear is for or is it just not compatible at all due to the vvt? Second, if i were to buy a dod delete kit, will the lifters it comes with be good enough for an upgraded cam?
Thanks
#9
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
Most of the dod kits I've seen come with ls7 lifters which are definitely good enough for an upgraded cam the kits are produced for upgraded cam kits in mind so they're not going to have inferior parts. You basically want to go with the dod delete for sure from what I've been told by numerous people and shops due to dod lifters being prone to failure with any kind of extra lift over .500 and also you should just check into finding a one bolt vvt cam because the variable valve timing basically keeps you in your power curve by advancing and retarding itself which is good for a daily street driven truck cause you'll have a wider range of power where as with a 3 bolt cam you're limited to whatever advance was placed into the cam. If you should give Texas speed a call they have a great selection of vvt cam packages as well as the dod delete kits and give you all the information you need to know to understand simply and also a break down of everything you need an would be best for what you're trying to achieve with the swap and an estimate of what everything is going to cost you and can hook you up with a mail order tune if you don't have a local tuner available or one you want to use
#10
Launching!
iTrader: (1)
And the cam above is a 3bolt cam which will cost you a little extra to run because of like he mentioned above you'll have to change cam sprockets and timing covers/ setups for the 3bolt because you will have to do away with vvt to run a 3bolt cam. Best bet retain your vvt go with a 1bolt vvt cam and get in contact with someone e like Texas speed and go from there. I know around here most shops charge 1100-1800 to do the swap not including the tune so expect to spend a nice chunk of change