YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

I am currently trying to sell/trade my 2013 tacoma and get a ECSB with a 5.3. I'm not too concerned with mileage as I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to rebuild everything over time especially motor/tranny/rearend. (If someone wants to trade me that would be great also :-)

I couldn't really come up with anything after my terrible searching skills. My question is when I go to rebuild it there are sooooo many options and was wondering if anyone has a 5.3 build recipe for prep for future low boost, like 8psi and like 500ish hp as a reliable DD.

I know cam and springs, intake, tune, TB, flat top or dished/forged or cast pistons, mill heads, port or match port heads, etc... Does anyone have a specific list for a 5.3?

I'd like to start buying parts or getting a list together.

ZO6Ted

Don't have to have TB, forged anything, any head work. Cam & springs are nice and of course a tune is paramount. 9.5 compression would be great even a little more is fine too for that. Have fun!

mdwatts11

iTrader: (4)

I built my motor for that exact same goal. Parts are in sig.

YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

Sorry it took me so long to respond.

Good to know. You have a newer 5.3 will that combo be any different than say a 01-06 5.3? Also, have you completed the build and how does it run without the future boosted set up? What do you think the HP is?

I read all of this and most of it see but not sure what the rest is.

1. Belltech 1.5/3 - What?
2. Hellwig 7800 - What?
3. RaceReady Cutout - exhaust something, maybe?
3. LS7 TB - Throttle Body, is it necessary or just a way to run some more HP
4. Blackbear Tune - ECU tune
5. Nitto 420s - Tires
6. Triple 12 - What?
7. Ls9 Head Gaskets - What is the advantage with LS9 HG?
8. Head Studs - Studs aren't a bad idea
9. BTR springs - Springs for a bigger cam? LS7 cam or what?
10. TSP Oil pump - Need a higher volume pump for the turbo?
11. LS7 lifters - Is this to compliment the springs and maybe a LS7 cam?
12. Comp Trunion Upgrade - What?

YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

What about milling the head versus not for a boosted application? I realize when you mill the head you will be increasing compression. This also brings up a question about dished vs flat top pistons. This also raises another question on what type of boost for the different combinations and what is the limitations for various set ups.

I should probably be posting some of this in the forced induction section. I will also need to try and figure out turbo size and determine the best set up as a DD. I would like a large turbo that has a lot of lag so it won't be spooling up at lower RPMs, and a big fat turbo would look cooler.

jiar577

iTrader: (2)

A stock LS engine, either 4.8, 5.3 or 6.0 will safely and reliable handle 8 psi as if it was nothing. Heck some guys are running up to 14 psi on stock/cammed engines but in those extreme cases the tune needs to be perfect.

What I'm trying to say is you don' need to get ultra expensive parts to achieve your goals.

ezdaar

iTrader: (1)

You would,be shocked at how many guys are running over 10psi on nothing mpre than a spring change.
These engines can handle a retarded amount of abuse.
If your goal os no more than 500. Dont go low comp. stay in the 9's. Low comp 5.3 or 6.0's are weak as ****.

If you insist on building a platform for boost. Make it as powerful as you can, then add boost. That way its not a complete turd when you not making boost.

Dont be scared of compression on a boosted motor. Sure you cant go hog wild with 20+ psi, but a forged bottom end built by a competant builder can give you 9.5-11:1 comp and have a awesome out of boost performing engine,that will **** and get on even the smallest boost levels.

TSP, has oem replacement forged components for cheap. Start there.
Or just grab a stock engine, spring and trunion it and shove boost down its throat.
A stock mid mileage 5.3 pull out is no more than 400$, buy a few and boost the **** out of it.

mdwatts11

iTrader: (4)

The build won't be much different besides little parts here and there but most of the parts are the exact same.

1. Belltech 1.5/3 - suspension drop
2. Hellwig 7800 - sway bar for rear end
3. RaceReady cutout - yes a way to open your exhaust from in the cab
3. LS7 TB - Not necessary. Mine went bad so I upgraded
4. Blackbear Tune - ECU tune
5. Nitto 420s - Tires
6. Triple 12 - Nick name of a cam from stock48 on here it's a 212/212/112
7. Ls9 Head Gaskets - multi layer better for boost
8. Head Studs - Studs aren't a bad idea
9. BTR springs - Springs are a must when you have a cam. Many brands to choose from.
10. TSP Oil pump - Not required but a good time to upgrade with the engine apart.
11. LS7 lifters - Replacement lifters for the stock ones. Higher performance if you will
12. Comp Trunion Upgrade - Gets rid of the possibility of the stock needle bearing rockers to explode into your engine.

YAMAHAGUY

iTrader: (6)

All great info. So it looks like a good cam, springs, trunion thingy, oil pump, forged 9.5:1 pistons, studs, and LQ9 head gaskets.

Im looking into either buying a reman or getting the one rebuilt from pan to heads. Does anyone have any suggestions on reman company or possibly a good builder in the Carolinas?

I also need to start getting a comparison on 4L60E vs 4L65E vs 4L80E and look for either a built one or getting one built. I know most people say go 80E, but I don't see why I have to go through the driveshaft shortening and fabricating/modifying a tranny crossmember, getting a HD dipstick, and some other sensor/electrical modifications when I can just get a build 60E or 65E. I still have some more research on this.

I like fewer modifications as possible.

ezdaar

iTrader: (1)

why a 80? because 60's suck ***, and regardless how its built, it will break.

Buy the tubular Xmember from guy here at PT.net.
Repinning your plug is easy, or buy the conversion harness.
get a JY drive shaft. no modding required.