Need advise. 04 or 07 for build?
01-16-2017, 09:42 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Need advise. 04 or 07 for build?
I'm looking to build an turbo 5.3 rcsb. I've found 2, an 04 and an 07. Is the flex fuel fuel system worth the hassle of dod? Is one or the other easier to tune? I'm wanting about 600 rwhp out of it. So I'm not sure the flex system can even handle that? So it might be a moot point. Looking for advise from the best around, that's why I'm here... Thanks in advance guys.
01-16-2017, 09:52 PM
#2
Is the 07 a classic or new body?
If it is new body, Get the 07 no question. Better motor, better electronics, better steering, the list goes on and on. The flex fuel system is good to at minimum 500, but thats where its limitation begin. if you stay in that power range you will save alot of money by not needing injectors or pump.
Which in it self is not a bad idea, as it give you time to sort out all the bugs, traction, decision on cam, convertor, etc. 500 to 600 is not a big jump in both power or track times as you will be fighting for traction at all rpm's.
Definatly stay away from the 02 its got the wimpy rods.
If the 07 is a classic, decide between it and the 04 based on condition of truck, milage and price. Typical used truck buying decisions.
Another decision is, whats the condition and price of the 02? If ot cheap enough to beable to drop in a 04-06 6.0 and a set of heads with out going near the cost of the 04 and 07. Then consider that option as well as it will give you a huge gain in base power before adding boost.
If it is new body, Get the 07 no question. Better motor, better electronics, better steering, the list goes on and on. The flex fuel system is good to at minimum 500, but thats where its limitation begin. if you stay in that power range you will save alot of money by not needing injectors or pump.
Which in it self is not a bad idea, as it give you time to sort out all the bugs, traction, decision on cam, convertor, etc. 500 to 600 is not a big jump in both power or track times as you will be fighting for traction at all rpm's.
Definatly stay away from the 02 its got the wimpy rods.
If the 07 is a classic, decide between it and the 04 based on condition of truck, milage and price. Typical used truck buying decisions.
Another decision is, whats the condition and price of the 02? If ot cheap enough to beable to drop in a 04-06 6.0 and a set of heads with out going near the cost of the 04 and 07. Then consider that option as well as it will give you a huge gain in base power before adding boost.
Last edited by ezdaar; 01-16-2017 at 10:00 PM.
01-16-2017, 09:54 PM
#3
The NBS trucks and computers are easier for tuning. The P01 and P59 computers aren't as advanced as the NNBS trucks but they sure do make speed density tuning less of a hassle if you ask me.
Either way you'd have to upgrade both fuel system including both the pump and injectors. Then you'd need to upgrade to a 4L80e and the NBS trucks make that easier with their computers as well.
Either way you'd have to upgrade both fuel system including both the pump and injectors. Then you'd need to upgrade to a 4L80e and the NBS trucks make that easier with their computers as well.
01-16-2017, 10:03 PM
#4
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The 07 isn't a classic. They both have 170k on them, the 04 actually looks cleaner and better cared for. But, I can fix the 07 no problem and if it's a better platform I'm all for it. The 2k in price difference dosent bother me, I just don't want to move in the wrong direction from the dig. Any major differences in the motor from 04 to 07?
02-26-2017, 04:50 PM
#5
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I've decided to buy a 2010 with the 6l80e and 5.3. It's super low miles and clean as hell, so I couldn't resist after talking to my trans builder about the 4l60e. I have also decided to ditch the turbo for a Edelbrock supercharger system with a tvs2300 with air to water intercooler. I want to run a smaller pulley so I know it will need rods and Pistons. My question is, at 41k miles can I just swap in some Callie's rods and Diamond pistons and roll with it? Or should I pull the motor and put in new bearings, seals and gaskets then stud the heads and should I add a cam or can that 2300 force feed it up to 600 rwhp? I appreciate any advise guys...
02-26-2017, 05:04 PM
#6
Why would you need rods and pistons?
Stock GEN 4 parts will hold 800hp easy. The rods are way way stronger than the early GEN 3 rods from 99-04ish.
The stock camshaft and AFM/DoD parts on the other hand, those aren't something I would want to run at high HP levels.
Stock GEN 4 parts will hold 800hp easy. The rods are way way stronger than the early GEN 3 rods from 99-04ish.
The stock camshaft and AFM/DoD parts on the other hand, those aren't something I would want to run at high HP levels.
02-26-2017, 09:03 PM
#7
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Thread Starter
I have zero expirence with these engines. What should I be worried about first on this 2010? DOD delete?
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02-26-2017, 10:00 PM
#8
Worry about the valve train first and that's mostly it for a moderate horsepower goal.
The stock cam isn't going to make that 500-600hp goal and the stock AFM/DoD system won't like it either. Swap out all that stuff for VVT cam that deletes the AFM/DOD or get a 3 bolt cam setup that removes both the VVT and AFM/DoD from the engine.
Stock fuel injectors are too small, you'll need 60-80lb/hr injectors and many places sell drop in units with data. Stock Flex Fuel pump is only good for around 550rwhp on pump gas so perhaps keep the HP limit to 500-550hp. That will be more than enough to shred tires and the stock 6L80e should be okay still around that mark and be fine.
Factory driveshaft will explode above 100mph, get one built. Factory G80 rear isn't super strong, something to think about. Most just swap it for a eaton/tru-trac/posi etc etc.
Read around more and you'll learn a bunch about these trucks, gotta do some homework for sure.
The stock cam isn't going to make that 500-600hp goal and the stock AFM/DoD system won't like it either. Swap out all that stuff for VVT cam that deletes the AFM/DOD or get a 3 bolt cam setup that removes both the VVT and AFM/DoD from the engine.
Stock fuel injectors are too small, you'll need 60-80lb/hr injectors and many places sell drop in units with data. Stock Flex Fuel pump is only good for around 550rwhp on pump gas so perhaps keep the HP limit to 500-550hp. That will be more than enough to shred tires and the stock 6L80e should be okay still around that mark and be fine.
Factory driveshaft will explode above 100mph, get one built. Factory G80 rear isn't super strong, something to think about. Most just swap it for a eaton/tru-trac/posi etc etc.
Read around more and you'll learn a bunch about these trucks, gotta do some homework for sure.
02-27-2017, 05:32 AM
#9
TECH Fanatic
Thread Starter
Worry about the valve train first and that's mostly it for a moderate horsepower goal.
The stock cam isn't going to make that 500-600hp goal and the stock AFM/DoD system won't like it either. Swap out all that stuff for VVT cam that deletes the AFM/DOD or get a 3 bolt cam setup that removes both the VVT and AFM/DoD from the engine.
Stock fuel injectors are too small, you'll need 60-80lb/hr injectors and many places sell drop in units with data. Stock Flex Fuel pump is only good for around 550rwhp on pump gas so perhaps keep the HP limit to 500-550hp. That will be more than enough to shred tires and the stock 6L80e should be okay still around that mark and be fine.
Factory driveshaft will explode above 100mph, get one built. Factory G80 rear isn't super strong, something to think about. Most just swap it for a eaton/tru-trac/posi etc etc.
Read around more and you'll learn a bunch about these trucks, gotta do some homework for sure.
The stock cam isn't going to make that 500-600hp goal and the stock AFM/DoD system won't like it either. Swap out all that stuff for VVT cam that deletes the AFM/DOD or get a 3 bolt cam setup that removes both the VVT and AFM/DoD from the engine.
Stock fuel injectors are too small, you'll need 60-80lb/hr injectors and many places sell drop in units with data. Stock Flex Fuel pump is only good for around 550rwhp on pump gas so perhaps keep the HP limit to 500-550hp. That will be more than enough to shred tires and the stock 6L80e should be okay still around that mark and be fine.
Factory driveshaft will explode above 100mph, get one built. Factory G80 rear isn't super strong, something to think about. Most just swap it for a eaton/tru-trac/posi etc etc.
Read around more and you'll learn a bunch about these trucks, gotta do some homework for sure.