brake fade
12-18-2016, 10:34 AM
#1
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brake fade
03 Silverado 1500 wt. I have always had brake fade when I snow plow. This year I replaced all the steel lines, all new pads, new rear calipers, all new hoses ( braided stainless on the front). All 4 rotors are in good shape ( no sign of glazing) and only have about 12,000 miles on them. Master cylinder ( new not rebuilt) and rebuilt vacuum booster ( with new check valve) have about 20,000 miles on them. Brakes were pressure bled and the ABS system was bled using a TECH II. Engine off, all vacuum bled and pedal moves about 1 inch and is firm. Engine on, pedal drops to about 3-4 inches from the floor. Brakes work fine. Plowed for the first time yesterday and after a while, truck doesnt stop very well. After shut down, brakes are fine. Are they overheating? Is there a fix? Maybe upgrade to drilled and slotted rotors?
12-18-2016, 11:40 AM
#4
Those are decent pads, they are above the safety stops (SS premiums) and below the Adpative one pads napa sells.
My guess is that because of the smaller rotors on the half ton they just heat up quicker. Maybe grab a temp gun and see how hot they are really getting.
My guess is that because of the smaller rotors on the half ton they just heat up quicker. Maybe grab a temp gun and see how hot they are really getting.
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12-21-2016, 11:36 AM
#8
Dump the ceramic pads in the trash and go back to semi metallic.
Then have the abs system bleed again.
Ceramic pads must be paired with drilled and slotted, drilled at minimum.
Also make sure the drilled holes are chamfered properly and evenly to help prevent cracking.
Every drilled/slotted rotor I have ever seen that has cracked was due to mis matched setup The cracks ALWAYS originated from a inner drill hole and radiated outwards through the middle and outer holes.
A lot of times there was numerous cracks in the rotor.
Most of the Time the rotor was Blue due to Excessive heat.
While drilled/slotted do run abit cooler, they are not the end all solution to brake overheating. the holes are to removes gasses built up between the pad and rotor, the slots are to scrape debris from the pad surface.
This is why performance orientated vehicles ALL have brake cooling ducts pointing directly at the rotor/caliper area.
Brakes are matched systems, ceramic pads dont retain much heat, thus not absorbing heat from the rotors, this will warp non drilled/slotted VERY fast and cause brake fade under the right conditions.
Carbon, semi metallic and metallic can absorb and hold a lot of heat, thus keeping non drilled and slotted rotors from over heating causing brake fade.
Keep your system matched and bed the pads properly. bedding is very important to getting the brake system to work as intended.
A high end Semi metallic pad on a OEM rotor will grab harder and hold longer before fading than a mis matched ceramic non drilled/slotted combination.
I learned this the hard way on my Talon by putting ceramic pads on OEM rotors, I was warping rotors almost monthly, until I went back to semi metallic pads.
The best pads I have ever used was EBC green stuff for large truck/Suv, they are very expensive, but worth every penny.
Then have the abs system bleed again.
Ceramic pads must be paired with drilled and slotted, drilled at minimum.
Also make sure the drilled holes are chamfered properly and evenly to help prevent cracking.
Every drilled/slotted rotor I have ever seen that has cracked was due to mis matched setup The cracks ALWAYS originated from a inner drill hole and radiated outwards through the middle and outer holes.
A lot of times there was numerous cracks in the rotor.
Most of the Time the rotor was Blue due to Excessive heat.
While drilled/slotted do run abit cooler, they are not the end all solution to brake overheating. the holes are to removes gasses built up between the pad and rotor, the slots are to scrape debris from the pad surface.
This is why performance orientated vehicles ALL have brake cooling ducts pointing directly at the rotor/caliper area.
Brakes are matched systems, ceramic pads dont retain much heat, thus not absorbing heat from the rotors, this will warp non drilled/slotted VERY fast and cause brake fade under the right conditions.
Carbon, semi metallic and metallic can absorb and hold a lot of heat, thus keeping non drilled and slotted rotors from over heating causing brake fade.
Keep your system matched and bed the pads properly. bedding is very important to getting the brake system to work as intended.
A high end Semi metallic pad on a OEM rotor will grab harder and hold longer before fading than a mis matched ceramic non drilled/slotted combination.
I learned this the hard way on my Talon by putting ceramic pads on OEM rotors, I was warping rotors almost monthly, until I went back to semi metallic pads.
The best pads I have ever used was EBC green stuff for large truck/Suv, they are very expensive, but worth every penny.
Last edited by ezdaar; 12-21-2016 at 01:39 PM.
12-21-2016, 05:57 PM
#9
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Lots of good info. The new pads were a bit expensive ( close to $200). So if I want to keep the new pads, it would be best to switch to drilled/slotted rotors? Or is the best plan to toss the expensive pads and use the non-ceramic pads with the relatively new rotors?
12-21-2016, 06:22 PM
#10
Your choice really.
If you go with drilled and slotted, get a good set thats coated, not painted with cadium or what ever it is they get coated with.
It will prevent rust on all surfaces except where pads touch.
Just make sure the holes are chamfered.
Only issue i forsee is getting them to bed properly now that they are bedded to oem rotors.
If you got the coin, look to baer (eradispeed kit) for a big rotor kit, going from you lil 12" to 14 or even 15" rotors will make a dramatic improvement.
Especialy if you combine that with a hydroboost conversion.
Even just oem sized drill n slot rotors plus hydroboost is fantastic upgrade.
If you go with drilled and slotted, get a good set thats coated, not painted with cadium or what ever it is they get coated with.
It will prevent rust on all surfaces except where pads touch.
Just make sure the holes are chamfered.
Only issue i forsee is getting them to bed properly now that they are bedded to oem rotors.
If you got the coin, look to baer (eradispeed kit) for a big rotor kit, going from you lil 12" to 14 or even 15" rotors will make a dramatic improvement.
Especialy if you combine that with a hydroboost conversion.
Even just oem sized drill n slot rotors plus hydroboost is fantastic upgrade.