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A/C Compressor not going on after resistor replacement
So my HVAC blower motor stopped working, after which I replaced the resistor and rewired everything (The new resistor I got from my local Chevy dealer required some connector wiring changes.) After I replaced the resistor the blower motor works just fun, and at all speeds/settings, however now I'm getting no cold air and the compressor isn't going on. The resistor part I ordered was #19260762, however the part # on the resistor (19260783) is different than the one on my receipt (19260762) and box (15-81773, an AC Delco part #).
Apparently the resistor I got is not even an AC Delco and has the manufacturer name Woory on it. A part of me is thinking that maybe I got a resistor for a heater only vehicle so the compressor isn't kicking on, however I found a website with what looks like my resistor (It's described as an AC Delco, but the picture of the resistor is clearly my Woory brand.) Here's the link to that part. http://store.the-electric-connection...2006-p719.aspx
My A/C was cooling just fine before the fan blower motor died, and I replaced the resistor. I think it would be one odd coincidence that the condenser gave out just after the resistor. Does anyone have any ideas? Is it possible I got a resistor for a vehicle with no A/C? This dealership where I got the part from gave me the wrong resistor the first time around (One for a manual climate control and I have the automatic climate control.) so I wouldn't be surprised if they messed something up with this part as well. Any help would be most appreciated. It's getting super hot in Cali and I'm dying for my A/C. :-( Attached below is a pic of the back of the replacement resistor.
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**For Sale**2003 GMC Sierra, ECSB, TVS1900 w/6 rib belt & HD tensioner, 3.73, 5.3L, Truetrac, TA Girdle, Corsa 3" Side Exit Exhaust, AS&M LT Headers, UPD airbox, HP Tuners, Hotchkis (coils)/Beltech (leafs/hangers) 2/4" drop, Hotchkis sway bar kit, Edelbrock IAS shocks (Front), Calvert adjustables (Rear), Caltracs, B&D 4L60E W/ Transgo, Vette Servo, Z Pak 9 clutch kit, etc., SnugTop Lid, BedRug, Optima yellow top, 275/60/16 Toyo Proxe ST II's. @8psi 429 RWHP, 467 RWTQ.
Lol no I didn't but it's definitely worth a try. I checked the a/c lines and there's definitely pressure/refrigerant in there. I'll try disconnecting the battery tomorrow, and later this week I'll get some wire and try to manually jump the condenser. Just gotta figure out how to do that exactly (Not sure which pin on the condenser plug socket I need to run power to. One wire is green and the other black, so I assume the green is power.)
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**For Sale**2003 GMC Sierra, ECSB, TVS1900 w/6 rib belt & HD tensioner, 3.73, 5.3L, Truetrac, TA Girdle, Corsa 3" Side Exit Exhaust, AS&M LT Headers, UPD airbox, HP Tuners, Hotchkis (coils)/Beltech (leafs/hangers) 2/4" drop, Hotchkis sway bar kit, Edelbrock IAS shocks (Front), Calvert adjustables (Rear), Caltracs, B&D 4L60E W/ Transgo, Vette Servo, Z Pak 9 clutch kit, etc., SnugTop Lid, BedRug, Optima yellow top, 275/60/16 Toyo Proxe ST II's. @8psi 429 RWHP, 467 RWTQ.
Disconnected the battery and still isn't working. What a bummer... I sure hope I don't need a new compressor, because I just noticed I need new tires (Thankfully I can get a good deal on these.), as well as front shocks (My new Calvert rear shocks made me really notice how bad the front shocks are.)
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**For Sale**2003 GMC Sierra, ECSB, TVS1900 w/6 rib belt & HD tensioner, 3.73, 5.3L, Truetrac, TA Girdle, Corsa 3" Side Exit Exhaust, AS&M LT Headers, UPD airbox, HP Tuners, Hotchkis (coils)/Beltech (leafs/hangers) 2/4" drop, Hotchkis sway bar kit, Edelbrock IAS shocks (Front), Calvert adjustables (Rear), Caltracs, B&D 4L60E W/ Transgo, Vette Servo, Z Pak 9 clutch kit, etc., SnugTop Lid, BedRug, Optima yellow top, 275/60/16 Toyo Proxe ST II's. @8psi 429 RWHP, 467 RWTQ.
Not saying that it is the problem, but another reason a compressor won't turn on is if it is low on refrigerant. But for your problem I would go over anything you unplug, spliced , etc or anything you could have potentially bumped. Sometimes things look like they are plugged in or are making a good connection but they're not.
Yeah I was thinking the refrigerant was low but I read online that one way to check this was by jumping the low pressure switch plug. I used a paperclip to jump the A/C system's low pressure switch and the compressor still didn't kick on. According to what I've read if the compressor did not kick on when the plug is jumped then the compressor isn't getting power or has something else faulty with it. Is this correct? Here's a thread on another forum that explained this: A/C Compressor Issue
If the thread is correct then I was planning to check the power to the compressor. So my question now is how exactly would I test if the power is getting to the compressor? There are two wires running to the compressor, a black and green. I assume I would check the volts running to the plug's green wire. Is this correct?
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**For Sale**2003 GMC Sierra, ECSB, TVS1900 w/6 rib belt & HD tensioner, 3.73, 5.3L, Truetrac, TA Girdle, Corsa 3" Side Exit Exhaust, AS&M LT Headers, UPD airbox, HP Tuners, Hotchkis (coils)/Beltech (leafs/hangers) 2/4" drop, Hotchkis sway bar kit, Edelbrock IAS shocks (Front), Calvert adjustables (Rear), Caltracs, B&D 4L60E W/ Transgo, Vette Servo, Z Pak 9 clutch kit, etc., SnugTop Lid, BedRug, Optima yellow top, 275/60/16 Toyo Proxe ST II's. @8psi 429 RWHP, 467 RWTQ.
Ok now this guy from the link below says that if the compressor doesn't come on when the plug is jumped then it's the compressor or a defective switch. Not sure how that makes sense though, since I thought that the switch was attached to the canister that holds the refrigerant, and that the plug has nothing to do with the switch.
A/C Compressor not going on after resistor replacement
