At what point does the LS platform loose it's reliability?
02-01-2017, 02:32 PM
#1
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At what point does the LS platform loose it's reliability?
So I've got an 89 short wide with a very mild NA 5.3 in it, maybe makes around 400 at the crank.
I keep coming back to this idea of a twin turbo daily truck putting around 800 to the tires.
that being said I don't want to be doing weekly oil and plug changes and having to consider rings and bearings and transmissions as maintenance items.
how far can you push this platform before it starts getting into a big maintenence bill?
I keep coming back to this idea of a twin turbo daily truck putting around 800 to the tires.
that being said I don't want to be doing weekly oil and plug changes and having to consider rings and bearings and transmissions as maintenance items.
how far can you push this platform before it starts getting into a big maintenence bill?
02-01-2017, 02:40 PM
#2
Too many variables.
What LS motor, what mods etc etc.
An early GEN 3 motor with small rods can't take much over 550-600hp before end up snapping a rod. GEN 4 rods will take 800-900hp easy and it's been proven. Stock bottom ends are very strong.
4L60e is garbage.
4L80e will handle stupid amounts of power stock and built.
For some the oil never needs changes, they just keep adding more LOL. Turbo trucks idealy should change the oil more often but that comes with the territory. That's the cheapest part of owning one.
Plugs are cheap and if the tune is good they will last a long time or make it a once a year thing if want too.
I think you'd find that even at 500-600hp to the tire will be still amost useless on the street with regular street tires and that it will be far more than you expect. 800hp will just rip tires to shreds even faster.
What LS motor, what mods etc etc.
An early GEN 3 motor with small rods can't take much over 550-600hp before end up snapping a rod. GEN 4 rods will take 800-900hp easy and it's been proven. Stock bottom ends are very strong.
4L60e is garbage.
4L80e will handle stupid amounts of power stock and built.
For some the oil never needs changes, they just keep adding more LOL. Turbo trucks idealy should change the oil more often but that comes with the territory. That's the cheapest part of owning one.
Plugs are cheap and if the tune is good they will last a long time or make it a once a year thing if want too.
I think you'd find that even at 500-600hp to the tire will be still amost useless on the street with regular street tires and that it will be far more than you expect. 800hp will just rip tires to shreds even faster.
02-01-2017, 04:39 PM
#5
In my opinion. If boost is something you are considering I would start by forging the bottom end. Stock rotating assemblies are hit or miss with boost or nitrous. Tuning is key! and not just a tune, but a good tune from a well know reputable tuner. A tuner with EXPERIENCE, not your average joe with HP tuners and a few NA trucks under his belt.
If you are wanting to stick with the 5.3 bore, there are a few companies that are now offering forged pistons. Some fit on factory rods while other dont and will use the 6.125 rod. If you are going to try and budget this out I would run an aftermarket forged rod and a forged piston. Have the rings gapped accordingly, and the use of a tooled steel wrist pin should be heavily considered. ARM mains would be something to strongly consider as well.
Traction will be your biggest enemy! The 4L80 is the only way to go! A really good tune! and dont skimp on parts. Cheap and fast never last long.
I have a buddy with a Factory LM7 in a SCSB 2006 and the only mod is a ON3 Turbo and at his power level which is around 450-500 IIRC it blows through the tires at more than half throttle. 30/60 rolls turn into a smoke show, and this is on a heavy OE 20 and 305/50 all terrain.
If you are wanting to stick with the 5.3 bore, there are a few companies that are now offering forged pistons. Some fit on factory rods while other dont and will use the 6.125 rod. If you are going to try and budget this out I would run an aftermarket forged rod and a forged piston. Have the rings gapped accordingly, and the use of a tooled steel wrist pin should be heavily considered. ARM mains would be something to strongly consider as well.
Traction will be your biggest enemy! The 4L80 is the only way to go! A really good tune! and dont skimp on parts. Cheap and fast never last long.
I have a buddy with a Factory LM7 in a SCSB 2006 and the only mod is a ON3 Turbo and at his power level which is around 450-500 IIRC it blows through the tires at more than half throttle. 30/60 rolls turn into a smoke show, and this is on a heavy OE 20 and 305/50 all terrain.
02-01-2017, 05:09 PM
#6
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In my opinion. If boost is something you are considering I would start by forging the bottom end. Stock rotating assemblies are hit or miss with boost or nitrous. Tuning is key! and not just a tune, but a good tune from a well know reputable tuner. A tuner with EXPERIENCE, not your average joe with HP tuners and a few NA trucks under his belt.
If you are wanting to stick with the 5.3 bore, there are a few companies that are now offering forged pistons. Some fit on factory rods while other dont and will use the 6.125 rod. If you are going to try and budget this out I would run an aftermarket forged rod and a forged piston. Have the rings gapped accordingly, and the use of a tooled steel wrist pin should be heavily considered. ARM mains would be something to strongly consider as well.
Traction will be your biggest enemy! The 4L80 is the only way to go! A really good tune! and dont skimp on parts. Cheap and fast never last long.
I have a buddy with a Factory LM7 in a SCSB 2006 and the only mod is a ON3 Turbo and at his power level which is around 450-500 IIRC it blows through the tires at more than half throttle. 30/60 rolls turn into a smoke show, and this is on a heavy OE 20 and 305/50 all terrain.
If you are wanting to stick with the 5.3 bore, there are a few companies that are now offering forged pistons. Some fit on factory rods while other dont and will use the 6.125 rod. If you are going to try and budget this out I would run an aftermarket forged rod and a forged piston. Have the rings gapped accordingly, and the use of a tooled steel wrist pin should be heavily considered. ARM mains would be something to strongly consider as well.
Traction will be your biggest enemy! The 4L80 is the only way to go! A really good tune! and dont skimp on parts. Cheap and fast never last long.
I have a buddy with a Factory LM7 in a SCSB 2006 and the only mod is a ON3 Turbo and at his power level which is around 450-500 IIRC it blows through the tires at more than half throttle. 30/60 rolls turn into a smoke show, and this is on a heavy OE 20 and 305/50 all terrain.
there is a budget but it's more steak and potatoes than Ramen noodles, but not in the caviar and dom range.
I was thinking dart or rhs block, 427 cubic inches, k1 rotating assembly, maybe some maehl or wiesco pistons, afr heads and twin gt35r or something similar, the turbos might be way to small. Want to stay on pump gas but don't mind running meth as long as it's not a gallon a week.
so probably in the 12 to 15 k range, spread over 2 years of parts gathering and deal hunting. Unless I can convince the wife to give me the whole tax return then I could probably swing it in a year.
how stout are the ls3 blocks? Can you even stroke one to 427 cubes without getting darting sleeves before you get ridiculous piston rock and have to start worrying about longevity?