JFortner5

I have a couple of question and figured I'd roll them into one thread.

I am finally ready to order a few parts for my truck. I'm about to pull the trigger on the 1 3/4" Speed Engineering long tubes/ory for my truck, but my '99 has EGR and I don't think these headers have the flange for it. I'm not opposed to deleting it, but I was wondering if there are any effects (positive or negative) from doing it?

Now I'll ask about a couple of cams. I can't remember if I completed my signature, so I'll tell what I have. It's a 99 Sierra ECSB 2wd. I have the 4.8L, auto, with an open 3.42 rear end. It has 52k original miles. It is my daily driver so I don't want to go too wild. My goal for the truck is to have something fun to drive back and forth to work, maybe a few passes at the track once in a while, and still be able to do some "truck stuff." I don't tow heavy, just a couple dirt bikes and atv's. I don't really ever see a need for me to tow over 2500lbs.

I've been looking at something like the Vinci Trucker cam. I'm not sure if that fits the bill but I figured I don't really need a high lift cam with a 4.8L and stock heads. I'll also have to run the stock converter for a little while, but plan on going up to a 2800-3200 stall eventually.

The Trucker cam specs- 216/224 @ .050", .551 lift, on a 115

I don't really know how the split duration affects power so I'm getting ready to do some reading. I'm willing to lose a little bit of low end for more mid and upper since I will make it up with the converter, but not too much. I should also mention that I'll be changing to 3.73's also. I'm going to try to do at least the headers/cam at the same time and then get a tune immediately after. I won't be going to the strip often, and I don't know if this is realistic but I'd like to be somewhere in the 14's.

Thanks for the help,
Joey


Edit- I just realized Texas Speed is a sponsor so I'd really like to help them out.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

If you find a good source that explains the effects of changing duration, split duration, and lsa please share it, im looking for same info... Really tryin to wrap my head around how a cam and the different aspects of the parts of it work together, i know lift is how farvthe valve will open from its seat. And duration is how long it stays open and lsa is the angle the cam lobes are opposed to each other, what im having issues with is how longer duration vs smaller dur
ation vs longer and shorter lsa affect the way the engine runs and where torque and hp occur in tge power curve

JFortner5

Same here I've read about it several times I just always seem to forget. I understand what the numbers themselves mean but as far as putting it all together to make a good combination is the hard part for me.

I didn't get a chance last night I had to work this morning, but I'm getting read to dive in. I know several people have cammed 4.8's and what I really need to do is go back and read through the older threads. It's hard to find a lot of information on ECSB 4.8's it seems like most here are RC.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

As far as egr they starteddeleting it as early as 02 and i havent seen anything negative with mine deleted asof yet, think these engines are efficient enough its not needed...

harrelllr4

I have a RCSB 2000 Silverado with the 4.8l LR4. I have short tube Pace Setters, Full custom Flow Master exhaust( including high-flow cats), a cold air intake, a BlackBear Performance tune (which is awesome), and I just bought a transmission rated to handle up to 500 hp. The rear end is a stock G80 "locker" with 3.73s. My headers were the same way, no EGR flange, so I had that deleted and bought an EGR Blockoff Plate from SummitRacing. EGR is good for emissions, but not so good for mileage, so combined with the cold air intake, which is not good for mileage, either, you won't ever see a difference when once you have it tuned. No real negative aspects to speak of. The new transmission has a stage 1 Tow and Go shift kit with an 1800 stall torque converter, which is only a half-step above stock, but perfect for a daily driver like mine. While I can't explain duration or lobe separation angle, I have done research on the subject for a while and can safely suggest that for giving up no low end grunt, which the smallest of the LS engines cannot afford, one can still gain lots up top with this cam, as tested by Super Chevy Magazine. It spec'd out to: 0.551-inch lift, a 210/218-degree duration split, and a 116-degree LSA. It was a Crane Cam custom mill that can now be found on SummitRacing as well.

harrelllr4

Also, just wanted to say that I can attest that the stock heads in stock trim, maybe a valvespring upgrade, will flow enough air to support up to 550 hp with no problem.

JFortner5

Instead of starting a new thread I'll bump this one.

I'm still thinking about the Vinci trucker, but I've got a few more I'm throwing in the mix. I don't want to over cam this thing, but I'll be honest even though I want the power I also want it to sound nice. I don't want to go too small either.

A few more cams I'm considering-

Brian Tooley stage 2 truck cam- 212/218 .553/.553 113+2

BTR stage 3- 218/224 .553/.553 113+3

TSP stage 2- 212/218 .550/.550 112 or 114

TSP stage 3- 216/220 .550/.550 112 or 114


I am strongly considering the TSP stage 3. Would it be miserable to drive with the stock converter for a few months? With either of the TSP cams would you choose the 112 or 114 LSA? If I understand it right the tighter it is the more low end power you get in trade for a little up high so I would think with this mouse motor that would be what I want.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Honestly therr is really so little difference in the specs i cant see how one would be much different than the next, maybe if you were worried about 1/4 mile et but all those cams realy seem to be about the same... No cam expert by any stretch but i cant see that little difference really making much of a drastic change between any of them.... Id suggest calling tsp or btr and having a discussion with them about what the differences would be

JFortner5

That's a good point.

I think I'm gonna just do a tune and long tubes. The more I think about it the more sense it makes to not go inside this engine. For not much more money than a cam swap I think I could do an LQ4 and be better off.

Wolftrk99

iTrader: (5)

Be a better starting point, i personally if going with a used engine would still want to go in and just make sure everything is good