should i send these headers back?
#31
in theory it should only move the collector out. i'm hoping for roughly 1/8 at the front header flange bolt and 3/8 at the rear header flange bolt. I used small blocks of wood behind the flange to simulate a 2nd decked flange and the collector fits nicely tucked up under the car.
#33
I have a gauge for that
iTrader: (42)
Depends how aggressive your belt is I suppose. A mill would certainly be the best bet.
Start with a 1/2" flange. Make a mark 3/8" from the bottom on one end, and 1/8" from the bottom on the other end, then draw a straight line connecting the two points. Angle the piece so this line is parallel to the cutting surface and press down until the line is at the belt or cutter.
Start with a 1/2" flange. Make a mark 3/8" from the bottom on one end, and 1/8" from the bottom on the other end, then draw a straight line connecting the two points. Angle the piece so this line is parallel to the cutting surface and press down until the line is at the belt or cutter.
#36
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Got any buddy's with a Bridgeport mill? I would just tack weld it onto another block so it was flat, setup the block offset on the table and mill it down. Prob take 1/2 hour. Then I would weld the flanges together, clamp the header to the table, and use an end mill to recess the holes flat.