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should i send these headers back?

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Old 09-08-2016, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Vortec350ss
Wont that also lift the collector? I would be nervous about it sitting too high and hitting the body then.
in theory it should only move the collector out. i'm hoping for roughly 1/8 at the front header flange bolt and 3/8 at the rear header flange bolt. I used small blocks of wood behind the flange to simulate a 2nd decked flange and the collector fits nicely tucked up under the car.
Old 09-08-2016, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Atomic
You could do it with a belt sander and a steady hand if you really had to
Originally Posted by climb-101
Ya you could use a belt sander, just build a jig on either side of the flange as a guid.
wouldn't I be there for days trying to take that much material from stainless steel? I'll find someone with the right tools for the job.
Old 09-08-2016, 04:05 PM
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I have a gauge for that
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Depends how aggressive your belt is I suppose. A mill would certainly be the best bet.

Start with a 1/2" flange. Make a mark 3/8" from the bottom on one end, and 1/8" from the bottom on the other end, then draw a straight line connecting the two points. Angle the piece so this line is parallel to the cutting surface and press down until the line is at the belt or cutter.
Old 09-08-2016, 04:57 PM
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A mill would be much easier, faster, more accurate.
Old 09-08-2016, 08:21 PM
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Have you call Jeff at Westside?
Old 09-08-2016, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by climb-101
Got any buddy's with a Bridgeport mill? I would just tack weld it onto another block so it was flat, setup the block offset on the table and mill it down. Prob take 1/2 hour. Then I would weld the flanges together, clamp the header to the table, and use an end mill to recess the holes flat.
This is how I would attack it too. Fairly easy if you are used to doing **** like this, most shops avoid jobs like this from guys off the street because they think you aren't willing to pay what it's worth. The flange is going to warp after cutting the angle, should be able to clamp it flat for welding to flange on the headers but if that warps too after welding, might want to take a skim cut afterwards. As far as doing it on a belt sander, you are still going to need to spotface/counterbore the holes so the bolt heads have a parallel surface to seat against. Depending on how much clearance the flange holes have for the bolts you might have to open those up as well, since the bolt will be passing through them at angle now.
Old 09-08-2016, 09:48 PM
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Why not have a shop cut the flanges and re-weld them?
Old 09-08-2016, 09:59 PM
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I thought of that too, do a pie cut across the top of the primaries, bend the flange over and weld it up.
Old 09-09-2016, 12:58 AM
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Westside wanted nothing to do with it. What chaps my *** is i shouldnt have to do any of this. 1,200 american headers should fit as advertised. Not buying from arh again...

Craig gallant from gtp is working up a quote for me.
Old 09-09-2016, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick
Why not have a shop cut the flanges and re-weld them?
If it doesnt work, the chances of sending them back to arh for my $ back = zero


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